Atlas 10F TV42 tune up

[IHinIN]

My father-in-law bought this lathe several years ago. I brought it home yesterday to go through it and fix a few issues. I have limited knowledge of these lathes, so I’ll be reliant on the advice from the experts here.



The 3-jaw chuck was worn and the jaws only touched at the back. A 0.010” feeler blade fit between the jaw and stock



I removed the jaws and milled a taper on the faces so that they make contact across the entire face. After checking runout, I cut another .005” off of one of the jaws. A 1.250” dia piece now runs within less than 0.001” TIR.

Removed the cross slide, lead screw and carriage to inspect the cross slide nut, half nut and feed gears. Everything appears to be in good useable shape.

The motor mount is a little bit of a head scratcher and the motor pulley is on backwards. Going to take it all apart and try to assemble everything correctly so that the two motor pulley speeds can be used.

 

[markba633csi]

Amazing save on the chuck jaws!- you might find though that the runout will vary with different sized workpieces as the scroll is often worn as well, but that's a huge improvement
Looks pretty original except for the blue paint

 

[IHinIN]

The chuck wasn’t useable the way it was so anything is an improvement. The 4 jaw chuck is gonna need some work too. It appears to have a 2-1/4 threaded back plate that’s been bolted to the original face plate.

Today, I investigated why the lathe wouldn’t operate in back gear. The small spindle gear to the left of the pulley wasn’t engaged with the teeth on the pulley. I slid the gear and lock collar to the right and tightened the setscrews on the collar.



Back gear now works, but as it’s running, it slowly moves backwards and the gears loose mesh. Is there supposed to be a detent or thumbscrew that keeps the gears meshed?



The detent pin on the feed direction selector handle was frozen in the handle. I put the handle in the mill and drilled an 1/8” hole through to the detent pin and knocked it out with a punch. A little clean up of the pin and it now works fine.



Apparently, the lead screw bearing/anchor had been remade at some point and it wasn’t correct. I had to cut 1/8” off the top and slot the mounting holes down 1/8”. It also needed spaced out 1/8” which I did with 1/4” heavy hard washers. Now the carriage travel doesn’t get tighter the farther right it’s moved.



On the rear of the carriage, the plate was missing that bolts on from the bottom and holds the carriage down. What I found instead were fender washers and rubber backed sealing washers under the screws. Quite the half-assed fix.
I made a new plate and fly cut the side that’s against the carriage.

 

[IHinIN]

Cleaned up the cross slide, compound and tailstock. Milled the top of the compound to fit an AXA QCTP and made a cover for the cross slide ways and lead screw. The sheet metal I used was already painted so the yellow is temporary.