AR's

They are bound to have to change definitions of a machine gun with that slide fire!! Perhaps if they look as long time,they could find some even more irritating music for the intro,too!!

Sorry,I'm too stingy to blast ammo out like that. The thrill isn't that great!
 
I'm not a big fan of the slide fire as the way it is implemented makes it harder to control (I know auto-fire/accuracy - oxymoron :p). Now the new trigger system from Tactical Fire Control looks VERY interesting.

-Ron
 
They are bound to have to change definitions of a machine gun with that slide fire!! Perhaps if they look as long time,they could find some even more irritating music for the intro,too!!

Sorry,I'm too stingy to blast ammo out like that. The thrill isn't that great!

Multiple machine gun owner here. They can't and won't change the definition. You still have to pull the trigger for each shot. It's just easier. And yes, the full auto thrill is actually that great :)

Emptying a full magazine of 300 blackout subsonic from my silenced M16 is worth every penny of the $30 it costs to do it :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV3BD3LXRu8&t=35s
 
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Everyone wants to save as much as they can while still getting a good product, but building an AR or machining a lower from an unfinished blank isn't as much about economics as it is building or making it on your own with your own personal touches. Different areas have different laws and in some places, building an unfinished lower may be the only way someone gets to own an AR. Others don't have machining capabilities but can weld and grind. The flat builds are ideal for them.

Here's a ton of info on the flat builds and others. Makes for great reading even if you're not into the weld-up kits.
http://www.weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?board=128.0
The whole section is full of good info, but be prepared to spend some time there. It kinda sucks you in.

As for 'un-numbered lowers', I don't know a lot about the legality of these, but I'm pretty sure you can home build anything you could otherwise legally own. It's up to the individual to check the Fed and local requirements for compliance.

Personally, I have an FFL and can buy finished receivers at a bargain rate, but I also enjoy building from scratch and reading about others projects.

Always changing, great advice! lol

You don't have to serialize a home built/finished lower, but many do so they don't get as many questions if stopped by an uninformed LEO. You do have to serialize and other details need to be engraved according to the GCA if you ever intend to sell or transfer it. Most of my self cut lowers are serialized, but a couple as of yet are not, but they have not been built into finished weapons yet either..
 
Just to put cost into perspective for someone like me without an FFL - I ordered 2 of the $49.99 Anderson lowers mentioned here. The shipping was $7 each. The FFL holder will be charging me $30 for the transfer (after cutting me a deal on doing 2 - normally, it would be $20 each). So my total cost for the $49.99 lowers will be $71.99 each, not including the 50 mile one way trip to the FFL to pick them up. That does make the $35 80% lower ($45 with shipping) I picked up a little bit cheaper, in this case. The FFL holder had a new Stag stripped lower in his case for $135.
 
To each his own, full auto to me is useless, guess I've shot enough FA I got board....now something that gets my interest is pulling the trigger on a 12" target at 1000 yards and hitting it, ....man what a feeling....

I have done both 0 % and 80 % aluminum lowers, might need to try one of the plastic ones
 
Not trying to revive the whole 5.56/.223 chamber discussion, but I would like to point out one thing, especially if you reload. Actual 5.56 military brass, ie: Lake City, FMC, etc. is thicker than most commercial .223 brass and has smaller case capacity, which creates higher pressure for the same powder charge. This is of no consequence with factory loaded ammo, but the roll-your-own guys like me can create some problems if they get carried away and dump a max .223 load of powder in a 5.56 case.
Before anyone jumps on me for being anal, I've seen this up close and personal when a buddy used his go-to .223 load in a bunch of mixed brass. The first round was a L.C. case and it severely flattened the primer, the case stuck in the chamber, the rim was ripped off, and the extractor on his Colt AR broke. We broke the remining rounds down and the powder charge was within .1 gr. across the board and COAL was fine. The only difference was the cases, which measured considerably less water capacity than the Win. and Rem. commercial cases in the batch. My rule of thumb is, the smaller the case, the less room for error.
 
Just as I posted before no one has EVER seen damage, but everyone has a buddy or cousin or uncle twice removed who knew this guy who once saw. as for case thickness go get 2 cases cut them apart and post a video then. you will not find cases of a significant difference (meaning there are small differences in case thickness called tolerance) go find 1 of each and post a video of that. facts are facts they all make ammo very similar. go watch this video about same caliber ammo being different. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGW7fDsbhDE this is the only difference you will find in 556/223 ammo. if not go get lake city or FMC ammo then some other cheap knockoff and cut them apart and measure them. it would make you a famous video on youtube...



Not trying to revive the whole 5.56/.223 chamber discussion, but I would like to point out one thing, especially if you reload. Actual 5.56 military brass, ie: Lake City, FMC, etc. is thicker than most commercial .223 brass and has smaller case capacity, which creates higher pressure for the same powder charge. This is of no consequence with factory loaded ammo, but the roll-your-own guys like me can create some problems if they get carried away and dump a max .223 load of powder in a 5.56 case.
Before anyone jumps on me for being anal, I've seen this up close and personal when a buddy used his go-to .223 load in a bunch of mixed brass. The first round was a L.C. case and it severely flattened the primer, the case stuck in the chamber, the rim was ripped off, and the extractor on his Colt AR broke. We broke the remining rounds down and the powder charge was within .1 gr. across the board and COAL was fine. The only difference was the cases, which measured considerably less water capacity than the Win. and Rem. commercial cases in the batch. My rule of thumb is, the smaller the case, the less room for error.
 
Just as I posted before no one has EVER seen damage, but everyone has a buddy or cousin or uncle twice removed who knew this guy who once saw. as for case thickness go get 2 cases cut them apart and post a video then. you will not find cases of a significant difference (meaning there are small differences in case thickness called tolerance) go find 1 of each and post a video of that. facts are facts they all make ammo very similar. go watch this video about same caliber ammo being different. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGW7fDsbhDE this is the only difference you will find in 556/223 ammo. if not go get lake city or FMC ammo then some other cheap knockoff and cut them apart and measure them. it would make you a famous video on youtube...

Thanks, I always wanted to be called a liar...
 
I am sorry I am not trying to offend you. everything I am posting is from direct experience. I will try to go back and find my emails from Remington and Fiocchi Both confirming the brass used is all the same for 223/556.
Thanks, I always wanted to be called a liar...
 
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