AR's

You can buy quality lowers now for under $100. To me it would not be worth the time to machine and finish a 80% lower.
 
it was probably me. if so Paul I am sorry it was not my intent to upset you. and to the question are there differences yes and no all at the same time. the 556 round and the 223 round have both been around for years and this subject about the difference has only become an issue in the last few(5 or 10) years. if you go to walmart and buy a box of 223 or .556 ammo they are infact the exact same round. it does not matter if it is winchester or hornady or that cheap russian brand i think is spelled teula or something like that. it all comes down to mil spec. the spec for 5.56 is loser than it is for .223 because you as a consumer would keep your weapon cleaner than the average GI was able to in korea and Vietnam. and hence would jam if held to those tight tolerances.back when I owned my own gun store in the 80's and into the later 90's this discussion never happened. and other than the occasional post where someone lied and was able to prove it. have NEVER seen a single accident from someone shooting or reloading the vice or versa of the rounds. and again to Paul. I am sorry if it was me I have no filter when it comes to my mouth or keyboard. when I see someone make what I see is a big deal over the whole 223/556 debate it just gets me going because even though there is a difference it is not a difference that we as consumers are going to notice. maybe if a reloader is trying to make match grade ammo and reload to get the max he can and needs to size his cases perfect would know the difference.


I did a lot of research on that subject but I'm not getting into it here I did once and I lost my temper so I stayed away for a while. I wrote a long post to the guy but decided to dump it instead of getting things fired up.

Paul
 
The point with 80% lowers is not the price, it's the paper
 
The point with 80% lowers is not the price, it's the paper

And for me, an opportunity to get some practice learning to use my milling machine. Being able to get a polymer lower to play with (another thing I wanted to do) just sweetened the deal for me. I have no reason or desire to avoid the paperwork, and if I had not been able to get the one I have for price I paid, I still would not have one. It looks like I'll have just over $100, not counting labor, in my complete lower. If I mess it up while machining it, I can still buy a stripped lower and put together a complete lower at a reasonable price point.
 
Well, if you want some real practice, I have a few 0% lowers I have not touched.
 
I downloaded a step by step instruction that takes a raw forging to a finished lower - At some point, I do want to try one of those! I need to get the DRO on my mill before i tackle that big of project - I'm a total newbie to milling right now!
 
I can get finished lowers right now 7075 T-6 Forged for 49.99 unless I wanted a unregistered gun, I wouldn't mess with a 80% lower for 100 bucks or more.

This is my latest build and is my personal gun...total cost even with the seekins muzzle break and larue rat stock is 682.00 total.

bart_ar_zps4847a54e.jpg

Here is my latest great find......I got this for free! yes I said free!

A5.jpg

bart_ar_zps4847a54e.jpg

A5.jpg
 
Are these lowers for 49.99 a onetime deal? or is this a regular price for them? would you mind posting a link?

I can get finished lowers right now 7075 T-6 Forged for 49.99 unless I wanted a unregistered gun, I wouldn't mess with a 80% lower for 100 bucks or more.

This is my latest build and is my personal gun...total cost even with the seekins muzzle break and larue rat stock is 682.00 total.

bart_ar_zps4847a54e.jpg

Here is my latest great find......I got this for free! yes I said free!

A5.jpg

bart_ar_zps4847a54e.jpg

A5.jpg
 
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