AR's

Not trying to revive the whole 5.56/.223 chamber discussion, but I would like to point out one thing, especially if you reload. Actual 5.56 military brass, ie: Lake City, FMC, etc. is thicker than most commercial .223 brass and has smaller case capacity, which creates higher pressure for the same powder charge. This is of no consequence with factory loaded ammo, but the roll-your-own guys like me can create some problems if they get carried away and dump a max .223 load of powder in a 5.56 case.
Before anyone jumps on me for being anal, I've seen this up close and personal when a buddy used his go-to .223 load in a bunch of mixed brass. The first round was a L.C. case and it severely flattened the primer, the case stuck in the chamber, the rim was ripped off, and the extractor on his Colt AR broke. We broke the remining rounds down and the powder charge was within .1 gr. across the board and COAL was fine. The only difference was the cases, which measured considerably less water capacity than the Win. and Rem. commercial cases in the batch. My rule of thumb is, the smaller the case, the less room for error.

Some of the HighPower guys are known to weigh their cases and measure how much each one holds. They keep batches together for matches. Those guys get pretty anal. Im a 3 gunner so I am just about cranking out ammo that will hold about 2MOA or less for hitting swingers at 350 yards or so. I use SMK 69s for that and for the most part they will hold closer to 1 moa than 2 in my JP built rifle. Anything less than 100 yards I use 55gr hornady loads. All with TAC powder. Different charge for each bullet of course.

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I have a question and a comment. For those of you doing the 80% loweres are you using reamers of just drilling out the trigger and safety pin holes? I tend to think a reamer would be better but have read of guys just using a drill. What exact size do you use and brand of reamer? I might as well buy what someone else has already discovered for the best fit of the pins. And what size drill did you use for the hole.

My comment is about the discussion on the chamber issue. Seems that most of the upper end barrel makers are now going with the "wylde" chamber.
If you guys really want to dig into the debate and find out more I suggest you visit AR15.com and go into their tech forums. You will get the most accurate info over there.
 
For doing the holes in the FCG and takedown/pivot pins, I use a drill and reamer. 0.156", 0.251" and 0.376" on the reamers (a thou oversized to allow for the anodizing and not be too tight). I drill them about .005 under and used high speed chucking reamers to finish the holes and leave a nice smooth finish.
 
Ares Armor was raided by the BATF as was the Armory that built the plastic lowers. The BATF claims that the lowers were a fully machined lower then the part was added to the lower to be machined out.

It would seem to me that they could see that this wasn't possible because the wholes were never drilled.

They also seized there computers to get the buyer list. So if any of you have gotten one from them you mite get a visit.

I got 2 so I guess I'm on there list oh well who cares.:rofl:

Paul

I also just got a S&W BG 380 and a SCCY 9MM to add to my collection.
 
Garry as far as your brass goes if it was military ounce fired it has been through some pretty rough and wore out weapons. I will not comment on the 223 5.56 issue or the 80% receiver because I have never built one. good luck
 
Ares Armor was raided by the BATF as was the Armory that built the plastic lowers. The BATF claims that the lowers were a fully machined lower then the part was added to the lower to be machined out.

It would seem to me that they could see that this wasn't possible because the wholes were never drilled.

They also seized there computers to get the buyer list. So if any of you have gotten one from them you mite get a visit.

I got 2 so I guess I'm on there list oh well who cares.:rofl:

Paul

I also just got a S&W BG 380 and a SCCY 9MM to add to my collection.
Is it to political for this place to say MOLAN LABE
 
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