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Winner A Dividing Head By Wayne
- Thread starter wayne.inspain
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Howdy and welcome, seems you were never a newbie just a wanna be I guess. Your doing a nice job building what you want with what you have. Nice to have a fellow reperpacer ,(use old junk to make new items).Just yesterday the guys next door had to put a new clutch and presser plate in a 12" wood chipper. I'm going to get the plate to use its about 16" x 2" thick, has some heat cracks but I think they will machine out , now that's a nice hunk of steel . The guys holler hey that's a lot of scrap money ,yupp I said I'll give you the three bucks it would bring. Keep up the work , there are some nice machines made over there ,hope you can land some too.
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I believe the word is neebie.
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The word in newbie unless you are referring to a 2 horned saddle from the Shetlands. Hi Silverbullet, thanks for your welcome. 2" thick plate
that in a piece of steel, do you have it earmarked for a project?
that in a piece of steel, do you have it earmarked for a project?
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This weekend the job was to bore the holes for the side plates. Apologies fro the pics still working on the camera. 
frustrating!!! The boring head thing.
I had some thoughts on this, cutting dove tails was out of the question I don't have the tooling, or the time, I do want to make a boring head but not till I have made this project. I looked at loads of pics on the net and came up with a solution that fitted what I can do with the materials and things I have.
A of piece of 40mm bar, a 6mm cutting tool which I later discarded, and a piece of 16mm bar which I later changed for a piece of 25mm bar from the hitch
of my tractor, needs must! I must say now that I am not over the moon with this design and not sure if I will work, looking at pictures of really nice boring heads on the net is one thing but making what you see is another. The idea is to drill the 40mm bar so the now 20mm bar passes through it and carries the tool, use the 6mm x 1mm pitch hex screw to wind the 20mm bar out to give accurate travel, well we live in hope!
I used the adapter I made previously for the rota broach and a 20mm broach and bored all the way through, I then used a 10mm cutter to cut a slot to within 13mm of the other side.
Having done some sums, realized that 16mm was not big enough for the tool holder took the hitch pin off my tractor turned it down to 20mm drilled a 9mmhole through the middle, this is the dimension of a 6mm square cutter across the diagonals. I center bored the 40mm bar when I trued it up and now tapped the hole put the 20mm bar in the 40mm bat so the lips were flush an center drilled right on the edge, this was for 6mm bar for a sort of gibb strip.
I got the bar from an old printer scanner, it is amazing what you can get out of a scanner printer!
I drilled all the way through with a 4mm pilot drill then decided that drills would probably wander so I put a 6mm end mill through this did better.
Then raised up the 20mm tool holder and cut a 10mm wide slot 5mm deep and drilled and threaded holes to mount a small bar the would be threaded for the adjusting screw. Those rods you get from the paper feeders from a printer are really nice, polished but not too hard.
frustrating!!! The boring head thing.I had some thoughts on this, cutting dove tails was out of the question I don't have the tooling, or the time, I do want to make a boring head but not till I have made this project. I looked at loads of pics on the net and came up with a solution that fitted what I can do with the materials and things I have.
A of piece of 40mm bar, a 6mm cutting tool which I later discarded, and a piece of 16mm bar which I later changed for a piece of 25mm bar from the hitch
of my tractor, needs must! I must say now that I am not over the moon with this design and not sure if I will work, looking at pictures of really nice boring heads on the net is one thing but making what you see is another. The idea is to drill the 40mm bar so the now 20mm bar passes through it and carries the tool, use the 6mm x 1mm pitch hex screw to wind the 20mm bar out to give accurate travel, well we live in hope!
I used the adapter I made previously for the rota broach and a 20mm broach and bored all the way through, I then used a 10mm cutter to cut a slot to within 13mm of the other side.
Having done some sums, realized that 16mm was not big enough for the tool holder took the hitch pin off my tractor turned it down to 20mm drilled a 9mmhole through the middle, this is the dimension of a 6mm square cutter across the diagonals. I center bored the 40mm bar when I trued it up and now tapped the hole put the 20mm bar in the 40mm bat so the lips were flush an center drilled right on the edge, this was for 6mm bar for a sort of gibb strip.
I got the bar from an old printer scanner, it is amazing what you can get out of a scanner printer!
I drilled all the way through with a 4mm pilot drill then decided that drills would probably wander so I put a 6mm end mill through this did better.
Then raised up the 20mm tool holder and cut a 10mm wide slot 5mm deep and drilled and threaded holes to mount a small bar the would be threaded for the adjusting screw. Those rods you get from the paper feeders from a printer are really nice, polished but not too hard.
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These are the pieces I ended up with I turned the end of the main barrel to 25mm for my collet chuck, I made a useless indexed collar for the adjusting screw, poor design, the gib dowel I detented so the grub screws would hold this in place while the tool holder moved out, a piece of toll steel I ground to
the middle and put a cutting edge on it, the small bar with 3 hole fits on the tool holder by the small holes and is move forward by the adjusting screw going through the larger hole which is threaded m6.
I recess the other side of the main body, really badly, for the adjusting screw, drilled and tapped the tool holder to hold the square tool in a round hole.
Here you can see the basic idea the 2 grub screws bear down on the 6mm gib rod, it only needed 1,I was surprised how hard this clamped down.
Between the main body and the small plate on the tool holder is a small spring which keeps the tool holder in, loosening the grub screws on the mail barrel
and a turn on the adjusting screw brings out the tool holder, to be honest the whole assembly looks gruesome. I was not convince this was going to work and I had a mornings work would have to be re-done in making some thing else, or worse buying something Ug!!
But the result, for me was a surprise, I would not have believed it, after a few passes I started to mess with speeds and feed rates then got bored with turning the handle and wrote a program to control the Z axis it took a while cus I was boring both plates at the same time, I had to adjust the head after every cut,
when I got close to size, because I have no way of measuring the size of the bore but a vernier I had to move the work from under the cutter try the barrel move the work back under the cutter, cut again move the work, etc,etc, till the barrel fitted lovely,
Next step!!!! not sure might have a beer
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If any one, and I am not sure why any one would, would like a drawing on this simple contraption I will gladly do one. I am not saying this is my design
but I have not knowingly copied anyone else's, I checked a lot of designs out and came up with something I could make with what I have.
The hole through the main body was not good but with no other was but to drill it, and a few other areas were crude to say the least but it did the job.
but I have not knowingly copied anyone else's, I checked a lot of designs out and came up with something I could make with what I have.
The hole through the main body was not good but with no other was but to drill it, and a few other areas were crude to say the least but it did the job.
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If anyone reads this they will already think I have had too much beer because of all the spelling mistakes
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Thanks for your comments Mark, Glad you like my progress so far. The boring head design has a flaw in so much as it rely's on a spring to to keep the
main body in contact with the adjusting screw head so it is possible to adjust the cutter out but the tool holder not move but I surmised that I would realize this had happened because on the next cut the cutter wouldn't cut!, I though of another design where the adjuster moved the tool holder directly, or a purpose made adjusting screw with a collar that retained the bolt that way the tool holder would have to move with the threads of the adjuster and not rely on the spring, but for now couldn't see it being worth it. I intend making a boring head so may modify this later.
main body in contact with the adjusting screw head so it is possible to adjust the cutter out but the tool holder not move but I surmised that I would realize this had happened because on the next cut the cutter wouldn't cut!, I though of another design where the adjuster moved the tool holder directly, or a purpose made adjusting screw with a collar that retained the bolt that way the tool holder would have to move with the threads of the adjuster and not rely on the spring, but for now couldn't see it being worth it. I intend making a boring head so may modify this later.
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