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I have about an hour on it so far and am showing no signs of pitting at all. A rather pleasant surprise. We see what it looks like after about 8 hours. Glass seems to be less resistant to pitting than plastic.
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I have about an hour on it so far and am showing no signs of pitting at all. A rather pleasant surprise. We see what it looks like after about 8 hours. Glass seems to be less resistant to pitting than plastic.
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I agree with woodchucker. It definitely looks like chips plugged into sockets.
I also wouldn't be surprised if the two failed chips aren't the same as the undamaged
Chip to the left. What you can see of the numbers on the far right chip seems to match
the leftmost chip. It also looks like the diode to the left of the rightmost chip may also
be bad.
The other thing you can do is look at the new board and see if you can read the numbers
from those chips. Overall I would doubt it would cost very much to fix.
I also wouldn't be surprised if the two failed chips aren't the same as the undamaged
Chip to the left. What you can see of the numbers on the far right chip seems to match
the leftmost chip. It also looks like the diode to the left of the rightmost chip may also
be bad.
The other thing you can do is look at the new board and see if you can read the numbers
from those chips. Overall I would doubt it would cost very much to fix.
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Wow! Thanks, Jeff. Great suggestion.
I just stuck a small screwdriver under them and the do unplug. Cool. Now all I have to do is figure out what they are see if I can get some. It seems like it would make sense to replace all three of them.
This is what it looks like and what the writing is on the top. Anyone know what it is?
(The Go619 is the model of the mill, previously wrote on the same card.)
IR2103
542P IOR (probably brand name)
C F358
I just stuck a small screwdriver under them and the do unplug. Cool. Now all I have to do is figure out what they are see if I can get some. It seems like it would make sense to replace all three of them.
This is what it looks like and what the writing is on the top. Anyone know what it is?
(The Go619 is the model of the mill, previously wrote on the same card.)
IR2103
542P IOR (probably brand name)
C F358
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Thanks, Frank. I don't see any damage on the diode. I'm pretty sure all three are the same, but I'll double check the numbers on the new board.
I'll make a run to the component store and see what they've got. Altex is open tomorrow. I'll see if they have some.
It would have been awesome if I had seen the damage and replaced the components before I purchased the new PC board. I don't think I would have ever gotten over myself.
I'll make a run to the component store and see what they've got. Altex is open tomorrow. I'll see if they have some.
It would have been awesome if I had seen the damage and replaced the components before I purchased the new PC board. I don't think I would have ever gotten over myself.
Last edited:
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That IR logo is International Rectifier (not the component you have pictured, it's the manufacturer). IR is now owned by Infineon.
Looks like IR2103 is a mosfet driver. Here's the datasheet.
You can get them from Mouser or Digikey.
Might also want to check the mosfets while you're at it. They blew for a reason & seeing that 2 of them blew it was not caused by a defect in the ICs.
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Speaking of the mosfets.... I'm no electronic wizard but I did used to work in electronic repair.
Circled in red looks to be where the mosfets should be on the other side of the PCB (I couldn't find photos of that controller online). Looks like 6 of them. Mosfets are usually attached to heatsinks but not always.
I can't tell for sure from the pic but circled in blue looks like a trace is burned. If yes & depending on how bad the burn is, the PCB maybe shorted. PCB's have layers & when the layers get burnt they short out. Sometimes it's possible to fix if the burn isn't deep.
If that's not a burn & I'm seeing something else, look at the mosfets & see if any are burnt like the burnt ICs. But mosfets don't always show physical damage when blown.
If that is a burn, I wouldn't even bother trying to fix it since you already have a replacement or you know someone who has electronic repair knowledge.
Circled in red looks to be where the mosfets should be on the other side of the PCB (I couldn't find photos of that controller online). Looks like 6 of them. Mosfets are usually attached to heatsinks but not always.
I can't tell for sure from the pic but circled in blue looks like a trace is burned. If yes & depending on how bad the burn is, the PCB maybe shorted. PCB's have layers & when the layers get burnt they short out. Sometimes it's possible to fix if the burn isn't deep.
If that's not a burn & I'm seeing something else, look at the mosfets & see if any are burnt like the burnt ICs. But mosfets don't always show physical damage when blown.
If that is a burn, I wouldn't even bother trying to fix it since you already have a replacement or you know someone who has electronic repair knowledge.
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Yeah, Will, I was concerned that the cause of the damaged chips was somewhere else.
Mosfet. Is that a transistor? I looked it up and that's as near as I could understand it.
Good eye. There is a burned arc track between that terminal (circled) and the gizmo with the arrow (capacitor?). That thing is also showing signs of damage. There is black goo on it (not visible in the pic). Looks like a leaky battery, but black like tar.
And yes, the terminal goes to one of the things secured on the heat sink.
Mosfet. Is that a transistor? I looked it up and that's as near as I could understand it.
Good eye. There is a burned arc track between that terminal (circled) and the gizmo with the arrow (capacitor?). That thing is also showing signs of damage. There is black goo on it (not visible in the pic). Looks like a leaky battery, but black like tar.
And yes, the terminal goes to one of the things secured on the heat sink.
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Will maybe right that it's not worth it, but I'm not there yet. The cap is cheap enough. The mosfet also cheap. The track, may not be through the board, it maybe a surface arc, or it may be as Will says.
It would be worth having it as a backup if you can get it working. And for a lot less than a new board.
It would be worth having it as a backup if you can get it working. And for a lot less than a new board.
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Yes a mosfet is a type of transistor but can deliver more power. They're like a relay, low power signal to turn them on & they deliver much higher power from the power source.
Yes the black cylinder is a capacitor. Usually when they dry up & die the top will bulge out. In your case if it leaked from the bottom something cause it to blow out. Does it look like the casing of it lifted off the base (comparing visually with the other caps on the board).
Worse case scenerio is the layers of the board is burnt where I pointed out. When that happens, the carbon from the burn, which is electrically conductive, will cause a short. The carbon has to be scrapped off & the underlying layers have to be isolated from the short, then solder in jumpers wires where needed. Again, if the burn is too deep, nothing really can be done.
I can take a look at it if you'd like. I'm not a pro in electronic repair but I know enough to get by, mostly in the physical repair side, not so much as reading the complete layout of circuits.
I can't guarantee that I can get it working & I have no way of testing it. All I can do is replace what has failed (to the best of my basic knowledge). Because of which I won't charge you for the work, all I ask is cover the cost of parts & shipping.
Yes the black cylinder is a capacitor. Usually when they dry up & die the top will bulge out. In your case if it leaked from the bottom something cause it to blow out. Does it look like the casing of it lifted off the base (comparing visually with the other caps on the board).
Worse case scenerio is the layers of the board is burnt where I pointed out. When that happens, the carbon from the burn, which is electrically conductive, will cause a short. The carbon has to be scrapped off & the underlying layers have to be isolated from the short, then solder in jumpers wires where needed. Again, if the burn is too deep, nothing really can be done.
I can take a look at it if you'd like. I'm not a pro in electronic repair but I know enough to get by, mostly in the physical repair side, not so much as reading the complete layout of circuits.
I can't guarantee that I can get it working & I have no way of testing it. All I can do is replace what has failed (to the best of my basic knowledge). Because of which I won't charge you for the work, all I ask is cover the cost of parts & shipping.
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Those mosfet drivers are not a cause, they are a result. Most likely the power mosfets shorted out and caused the overlaod on the drivers. There could be another component that caused the mosfets to short out. Without a schematic it is difficult to diagnose something like that. For sure those bulged caps need to be replaced, they may have caused the failure of the other components. Bad caps have been a common thing for the last 10 to 15 years. There are many counterfeit caps on the market and still the manufacturing purchasing agents get suckered in by low cost. I just replaced all the caps on my 46" Samsung LED TV last month because it wouldn't turn on and my computer motherboard had 5 bad caps on it causing strange behavior. I replaced them and both are now running better than new. I usually get my parts from Digikey because they are only selling prime components.
Roy
Roy