2017 POTD Thread Archive

Been working on getting the new shop setup.

Last Saturday my son and I installed my Ammco 10k pound two-post lift that we brought from our old shop.

Then we started working on getting the new air lines ran throughout the shop and RV bay. I also was able to get air from the ceiling down to the mill for the power drawbar.

My son's new CNC mill also showed up last Thursday. Thanks to Matt at Precision Mathews for hooking him up.:eagerness:

Next order of business is the fabrication of my work benches. Then I can get the mill and lathe actually leveled and I can get back to working on projects, which have really stacked up over the past almost year now.

Mike

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Been working on getting the new shop setup.

Last Saturday my son and I installed my Ammco 10k pound two-post lift that we brought from our old shop.

Then we started working on getting the new air lines ran throughout the shop and RV bay. I also was able to get air from the ceiling down to the mill for the power drawbar.

My son's new CNC mill also showed up last Thursday. Thanks to Matt at Precision Mathews for hooking him up.:eagerness:

Next order of business is the fabrication of my work benches. Then I can get the mill and lathe actually leveled and I can get back to working on projects, which have really stacked up over the past almost year now.

Mike

Mike,

The shop is turning out really nice, you have to be pretty happy with it. I like your hose reels, that is the only way to go. I mounted one on my lift as well. Mine all have filters and regulators at the connection. I am guessing you have yours at the compressor.
 
Mike,

The shop is turning out really nice, you have to be pretty happy with it. I like your hose reels, that is the only way to go. I mounted one on my lift as well. Mine all have filters and regulators at the connection. I am guessing you have yours at the compressor.

Thanks for the compliments Randy.

As for the filter/regulator, yes, I have mine mounted at the compressor which is in the RV bay. So I don't have to listen to it running.:grin:

Thanks again. I hope to be back machining in the near future. This has been a hell of a year that's for sure.

Mike
 
I took the time to play with some metal just in case people thought I'd closed the machine shop.

To better use the gage blocks I bough I made a dial bore gauge setter. With a stack of blocks between the bottom and moveable anvil it should be a breeze to adjust the bore gauge. Seen to do a fair bit of bushing work and setting the gauge with a micrometer is a pain.

The base and anvil are cast iron, does that ever grind nice. The top anvil has a spring love it to hold pressure on the gauge blocks. The rod locks with a small split cotter.

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Greg
 
Yes it does (in the settings).

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You can flip the scales (they are symmetrical, so you can turn them 180 degrees and remount). Your cable will stick from the top but that doesn't matter.
Having the reading backwards is BAD... I had a lathe that had right-handed screw on the cross feed for a year. Guess how many parts I messed up after switching to a lathe that had the right screw... One short lapse of concentration during threading and you start over :(

Regards
Yuriy
I put dro's on my lathe and a homemade yuriys bluetooth, when I go towards the chuck I get negative reading, and when I cut dia. away from me I go negative is that standard or do I have it reversed???
 
I made this the other day.
I need to cleanup a taper attachment after weld filling.
I may add another cutter, right now in AL it's not a nice finish, but in mild steel it looks acceptable. The bulbous area above the dovetail is to offer support so I can have more extension from the quill and not lose a lot of support. I know the .5 shaft already loses some, but the extra beef helps.
SDC11968.JPG SDC11969.JPG SDC11967.JPG
 
Hi Dave, (sorry for my ingnorance), what is for and how it work a Fire piston ?
regards Dema
I'm no expert, but this is how I understand they work.

Consider a Diesel engine ... there's no spark plug, because the compression in the cylinder raises the temperature of the air high enough that when fuel is injected, it ignites. A fire piston works on the same principle. When you compress the plunger rapidly, it raises the temperature of the air inside high enough to ignite the tinder and start your camp fire. No need for matches, flint/steel, etc. The only "expendable" you need is some kind of material that's easily lit (tinder), and this is generally easy to replace/find in the field.

Making a fire piston requires machining to close tolerances (so air does not leak past the piston), but you do want smooth motion. So it is a good demonstration of machining skill.
 
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