2014 POTD Thread Archive

[ddmunroe]

Had some time today to make this arbor:
No keyway just yet I'll try it out first to see if it needs one.
Apparently more forgiving to the saw should it grab (may shatter).

The "saw contact face" on the shaft has been undercut toward outside diameter.
A flat ring area left so when the blade is sandwiched the holding force will be greater.
It's a one inch shaft
I roughed it then left .012 on all diameters then tuned it between centers for trueness.
dd

 

[Marco Bernardini]

Had some time today to make this arbor:
No keyway just yet I'll try it out first to see if it needs one.
Apparently more forgiving to the saw should it grab (may shatter).

The "saw contact face" on the shaft has been undercut toward outside diameter.
A flat ring area left so when the blade is sandwiched the holding force will be greater.
It's a one inch shaft
I roughed it then left .012 on all diameters then tuned it between centers for trueness.
dd

Nice!
Let us know how it works.
From direct experience I suggest to use, instead of a bolt, a flat head screw, countersunk and with an hex socket for an Allen key, which will offer you some more clearance below the blade.

 

[ddmunroe]

Nice!
Let us know how it works.
From direct experience I suggest to use, instead of a bolt, a flat head screw, countersunk and with an hex socket for an Allen key, which will offer you some more clearance below the blade.

Marco,
I thought about that as I've seen others using the countersunk bolt.
In my thinking before I posted I can't see when you need clearance under the unit while its cutting ?
Have you needed clearance before ?
Thank's for your post or should I say "Grazie"
dd

 

[Don B]

.
In my thinking before I posted I can't see when you need clearance under the unit while its cutting ?

Nice job on the arbor...!)

The extra clearance you'd get is handy by times if your working close to the vise, I have one I made, it's almost the reverse of what you did, on mine I counter board the arbor and made the boss on the cap, this gave the cap more meat to use a counter sunk socket head cap screw.:thinking:

 

[AlanR]

Had some time today to make this arbor:
No keyway just yet I'll try it out first to see if it needs one.
Apparently more forgiving to the saw should it grab (may shatter).

These are the ones I prefer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151292637770

They're less than 1/2 the price if you get the .002 runout one.

If you're using the vise to hold the stock you have a lot fewer worries about hitting it.

 

[Marco Bernardini]

These are the ones I prefer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151292637770

They're less than 1/2 the price if you get the .002 runout one.

If you're using the vise to hold the stock you have a lot fewer worries about hitting it.

Made in Poland? Interesting, maybe I can get them directly from the producer and save a couple of Atlantic crossings. The price is pretty fair.
BTW, a couple of months ago I bought 3 slitting saws from Greece, but they were still "Made in Czechoslovakia"… a relic :lmao:
Here is mine at work cutting the M6 bolts holding the drill press vise:

 

[ddmunroe]

Nice job on the arbor...!)

The extra clearance you'd get is handy by times if your working close to the vise, I have one I made, it's almost the reverse of what you did, on mine I counter board the arbor and made the boss on the cap, this gave the cap more meat to use a counter sunk socket head cap screw.:thinking:

Hi Don ... when I made the cap I left 4mm in case I wanted to go counter sunk later. To be honest I didn't have a hex countersunk screw in stock so for the slitting job tomorrow it will work fine ... I'll get a pic up of that.
The "hitting vice" theory hits home ... counter sunk will come in handy one day.

If I make another arbor ... I'll use your design might be easier to make ?
The one nice thing about this one is .0005 max runout. I don't think saws need to be this accurate but I factored that into he project at no extra cost.
Alan R cheers for you input too

dd

 

[AlanR]

The one nice thing about this one is .0005 max runout. I don't think saws need to be this accurate but I factored that into he project at no extra cost.
Alan R cheers for you input too

Unless you buy some pricy blades I don't think their runout is anything to be proud of.

As to the key, the main advantage would be getting the blade OFF the arbor. They often become so tight I have to hold the arbors in a vise and use extreme tactics to get the saw blade off.

 

[Don B]

I've been working on a CNC Pendant mount for my mill and did the last little bit of tweaking today on the mock up, I'm happy with the result and am ready to commit the design to the finish material (not that it will happen any time soon but it's on the list)
I just thought I'd post it just in case someone else could make use of the design/idea.
I was having problems when touching off the tool to set my Z, when the pendant was on the original mount (basically just a hook) and I would try to rotate the handwheel the pendant would rotate first then the handwheel would jump a few clicks at a time, instead of the one or two I intended.
It's easier to pick up now than when it was on the hook, it can be rotated, and the pendant body stays put while I'm holding a piece of paper to touch off the tool while trying to rotate the handwheel with the other hand.

 

[Marco Bernardini]

I've been working on a CNC Pendant mount for my mill

That brown metal used for the support is pretty strange… which type of alloy is it? :lmao:
Jokes apart, it is a great improvement… be prepared to have it copied by everyone!