Splat's new Heavy 10

If it's only a couple threads, what I would do is to find a tap the original size, take the compound off for a clear hole, run the tap through and see if it cleans up. 2 threads shouldn't be a problem.(?)
 
That was the first thing I actually tried Chuck but it didn't work. Now you got me thinking maybe if I used a bottoming tap instead of a tapered one....it's worth a shot. :thinking:
 
what is the size tap you used?

You need to remove it completely so you can go all the way through.. are you trying to do it while it is still assembled?? Maybe I am missing something here (??)
 
what is the size tap you used?

You need to remove it completely so you can go all the way through.. are you trying to do it while it is still assembled?? Maybe I am missing something here (??)

I don't get you here Chuck. The hole is 7/16-14 threaded only maybe halfway and then the other half is where the clamp shoes (big pins with the one end angled) go. Parts 43 and 42 on the diagram. NES makes a tool that would work but it's around $60 IIRC. I just had an idea. I'm going to get a 3/8-14 so it matches the pitch but is smaller than 7/16 and maybe I can somehow get the first two threads going again by working the 3/8 tap out while pressing the tap against the wall/threads. :thinking:

View attachment 911J.pdf
 
I ground off three of the four threaded flutes on a 7/16-14 tap so I could get it into the hole. I then tried restoring the threads by trying to press the threaded flute of the tap into the thread in the hole while going. No good. I just ordered a 7/16-14 Helicoil kit and will try that. Probably won't get here until Wednesday or Thursday. Never did one before so I hope it works.
 
"Vent time.... I hate it when machine/tool owners simply paint everything because it's the easiest way to do things. :angry: Cleaning up the saddle now and my Heavy 10's PO got paint just about everywhere. Only good thing is when it's done right ...as I'm trying to do, it all looks 100 times better when I get done. :)"

That's pretty much standard procedure it seems. I love it when they leave the chuck mounted, slop paint all over the chuck, and then leave the area behind it unpainted. I had a mill that I had to scrape the paint off the dials and index marks before I could even mill anything. I'm thinking it must have been used as a drill press. Looks like your getting close to making chips. I was going to suggest that you grind the end of a plug tap if you don't have a bottom tap...but I guess you tried that with your taper tap. It would seem like you would have to grind a lot off a taper tap before you had wide enough flutes to do much cutting...just a thought. I'm sure the heli-coil will be a good fix. Good luck,

Chuck
 
I don't get you here Chuck. The hole is 7/16-14 threaded only maybe halfway and then the other half is where the clamp shoes (big pins with the one end angled) go. Parts 43 and 42 on the diagram. NES makes a tool that would work but it's around $60 IIRC. I just had an idea. I'm going to get a 3/8-14 so it matches the pitch but is smaller than 7/16 and maybe I can somehow get the first two threads going again by working the 3/8 tap out while pressing the tap against the wall/threads. :thinking:

View attachment 50351

it's not going to hurt to tap partially into the smooth area.. I don't see how you can tap that far in, reaching the smooth area and still not have enough threads. The threaded hole must be wallered out and no longer be 7/16ths.
 
I love Helicoils! :) Got my 7/16NC Helicoil kit and went to work yesterday on her. Had to meticulously hold the work in my drill press vise at an angle but took my time. First Helicoil that went in I had it down way too far so the clamp shoe could only go in about halfway. Got that one out and put another one in but not as far down the hole. Works perfectly now. Woohoo! Back in business! :phew: So now the carriage is completely done and back on the lathe. Now the headstock is the only major thing left. Wish me luck guys, I'm going in. :)
 
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