New 1340GT in the shop

I have that Dorian threading tool and like it a lot. It's more rigid than the lay-down holders.
 
OK guys,

I've done almost zero with the lathe until now. I need to get it completely set up and actually learn how to use it.

I ran all the low gears 10 minutes in each direction. I then swapped the belt to the high gears in order to run all those through a break in cycle so I could drain the oil and replace it.

I went to the lowest high gear and within in a minute I could see the belt shedding black dust and felt a lot of heat. I turned the machine off and the belt was HOT to the touch.

Not sure what I did wrong, hoping for some assistance. My plan was to run it through all the gears high and low, change oil, then get it to where it's not cutting a taper. Ran into this so I stopped.

There was more black belt dust but I vacuumed some of it up before I realized what it was.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

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The stock belts are known to be very poor as to durability and also throwing belt dust all over the place. I usually recommend switching them out for a notched type belt that can wrap around the pulleys better and shed very little. I use the Gates Tri-Power belts, the issue I had when I owned my 1340GT is I needed both a BX24 and BX25 to cover both pulley ranges. If you run off of a VFD then I usually recommend flipping the motor pulley and that requires a BX26 belt size. Also the 1236GT uses smaller belts. You will want to lube your external gears, I usually use impact grease, something that sticks to the gears and will not fly off, do not over grease them.

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PM1340GT belting Gates Tri-Power BX26 reversed motor pulley for single speed when using a VFD and run VFD ~20-90Hz
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That is a aftermarket belt recommended on a youtube video of a review of this specific lathe. Can't remember the members name, think he works in a auto shop.

Looks like I need a new one anyway so i'll order the two separate ones you recommend.

The manual just says "reposition the Vee belt, then lower the motor to retension - not fully weight bearing, just enough to drive reliably without slipping"

When I switched the belt I let the weight of the motor hang and lifted it slightly until I saw a slight bow in the belt and tightened down the screw.
 
Serpico1985 said:
That is a aftermarket belt recommended on a youtube video of a review of this specific lathe. Can't remember the members name, think he works in a auto shop.

Looks like I need a new one anyway so i'll order the two separate ones you recommend.

The manual just says "reposition the Vee belt, then lower the motor to retension - not fully weight bearing, just enough to drive reliably without slipping"

When I switched the belt I let the weight of the motor hang and lifted it slightly until I saw a slight bow in the belt and tightened down the screw.
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Try to order the belts from a company that will deliver a fresh belt. I bought a gates belt on ebay and there was set. Belts I bought from texas belting came direct from gates. The fresh belts had less vibration. I also balanced the pulleys on a simple knife edge set-up, drilling holes until balanced. It appears the pulleys on the 1340's are machined , not cast -decent quality. For me: making sure the belt was not tight gave a much smoother performance.
 
I'm waiting on a couple new belts. In the mean time I'm trying to get my collet chuck squared away. It's the PM brand 5c with D1-4 back plate.

I can't seem to get the collet chuck to repeat a decent low runout reading. I messed with it for hours yesterday and started fresh this morning. This morning I took it apart and whipped all the mating surfaces down. It appears very clean and free of debris.

I started by checking the run out on the spindle itself.

I checked locations marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the spindle with my Starrett .0001" indicator and all these surfaces were about .0001' of runout. Good.
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I then mounted just the back plate per the instructions to check for a gap between the "1" surface in red above and the back of the back plate. Of the 3 possible camlock positions one allowed me to slip a .0015" shim between the plates for about 120 degrees. I mounted the back plate in one of the two positions that did not allow me to slip the shim in anywhere. Does this make sense?

I then installed the collet chuck onto the back plate and adjusted the run out within in the interior portion of the chuck to under .0002". I'm referring to this area of the chuck marked in red:
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The 3 cap head bolts were lightly snugged to remove any slop but left loose enough so that I can adjust the runout with the 4 set screws (like a 4 jaw chuck).

The runout was adjusted down to under .0002". Cap head bolts tightened, re-checked runout. Then I took the collet chuck off and put it back into the same camlock position. I tried to tighten the camlocks in the same way as the first time applying a consistent amount of pressure. I re-check the area marked in red and I get .004-.005" of runout.

A buddy suggested I try rotating the chuck via the 3 cap head bolts, advancing it clock wise to the next position and re-trying. I did this and it never repeated, I'd get it to under .0002" and then put it back on and it was .004" or more.

The online manual for this chuck suggested that it may need to be "shimmed". I don't know where to shim it or if that is even the problem I'm having.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks gents.
 
I had a similar problem with my PM ER-40 chuck, the problem was the face near the pins was raised slightly and would not allow the chuck to seat properly against the spindle. I sanded down the high spots on my surface plate and it was much better after that.
 
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