New 1340GT in the shop

I contacted PM and they advised that the likely culprit is that the tapered hole in the center of the chuck's backplate is undersized by 1 or 2 thousandths. They suggested using dyekem or a sharpie to color that taper in the backplate of the chuck, and then use sandpaper on a dowel to evenly remove a little from the taper to make it wider.

I blued up the taper and attached the back plate and removed it and found a contact ring that goes all the way around evenly. Simply adding the bluing made it much more difficult to remove the back plate. Had to hit it pretty hard with a deathblow hammer to get it off.

IMG_1738.JPG


I took some 320 grit sandpaper on a dowel and went all the way around the interior taper. Tried it again and my runout shrank from .004-.005" to .002".

I blued it up again and got a similar pattern as this first picture, but slightly less hard/shinny contact . That's were I stopped last night. I'll repeat the process again.

What is a reasonable expectation for repeatability for this thing if it is fixed and working properly? I've been checking the runout inside the taper that the collets engage on the chuck. Assuming I mount it in the same camlock position should I be back under .0001" every time?

Thanks
 
Serpico1985 said:
I contacted PM and they advised that the likely culprit is that the tapered hole in the center of the chuck's backplate is undersized by 1 or 2 thousandths. They suggested using dyekem or a sharpie to color that taper in the backplate of the chuck, and then use sandpaper on a dowel to evenly remove a little from the taper to make it wider.

I blued up the taper and attached the back plate and removed it and found a contact ring that goes all the way around evenly. Simply adding the bluing made it much more difficult to remove the back plate. Had to hit it pretty hard with a deathblow hammer to get it off.

View attachment 410053

I took some 320 grit sandpaper on a dowel and went all the way around the interior taper. Tried it again and my runout shrank from .004-.005" to .002".

I blued it up again and got a similar pattern as this first picture, but slightly less hard/shinny contact . That's were I stopped last night. I'll repeat the process again.

What is a reasonable expectation for repeatability for this thing if it is fixed and working properly? I've been checking the runout inside the taper that the collets engage on the chuck. Assuming I mount it in the same camlock position should I be back under .0001" every time?

Thanks
Click to expand...
.0001" might be expecting too much, but a consistent .0005 should be accurate for most uses.If you put in a hardinge,etc 5c collet and a 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" gage pin what R/O do you get? That's where I would want to see .0005 " or less.
 
Roger that. That's what I don't know. I don't know what is reasonable to expect.
 
Did the first oil change. Seems like a ton of metal particles in the oil. But then again I have no reference point for what new lathe oil change should look like. Does this look normal to everyone?

IMG_1856.JPG


A look inside the head stock at all the metal flakes inside.
IMG_1855.JPG
 
The oil on my 1340GT looked like that also after the initial run-in for several hours. Subsequent oil changes have come out clear.
 
Serpico1985 said:
Did the first oil change. Seems like a ton of metal particles in the oil. But then again I have no reference point for what new lathe oil change should look like. Does this look normal to everyone?

View attachment 411006

A look inside the head stock at all the metal flakes inside.
View attachment 411007
Click to expand...
I just changed mine on my 1236T after maybe 10 or 11 hours of use, it looked very similar.
 
Just for fun said:
I just changed mine on my 1236T after maybe 10 or 11 hours of use, it looked very similar.
Click to expand...
Roger that, thanks guys.

I received my Gates Tri-Power belts and used them to finish the break in cycle. They run much better than the previous belt.
 
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