Looking for 1/4-24 threaded rod

The original post indicated 1/4"-24. Your "find" you said was 1/4"-28. Not compatible sizes.... ?????
DanK
 
Single point means cutting the threads on a lathe with a single point 60°cutter. It is not trivial in a long skinny application like this because the rod would have to be supported very near the point of cutting, i.e. a follower is going to be needed. Single point cutting requires several passes to complete the thread making this a very time consuming method.

It doesn't make sense that the post would need to be so much harder than the nuts that run on it. Brass is very soft by comparison, even if "hard" brass. I've handled hand planes for over 60 years and have yet to encounter one with worn out threads. I have encountered rust and corrosion under the nuts, but hardness will not "fix" that. Even mild steel will be harder than the cast iron it screws into at the bottom. I would rather ruin the post than bugger the relatively delicate threads in the sole.

Are there any examples of "worn" posts available? I would want to confirm his conclusion to be sure it is indeed worn and not corroded. Part of that show should include the nuts that wore it out...
DanK
Point taken, thanks for the single point explanation
 
The original post indicated 1/4"-24. Your "find" you said was 1/4"-28. Not compatible sizes.... ?????
DanK
Not sure who you were directing this reply to... but I didn't "find" the 1/4-28. I am only referring to 1/4 24s
 
My bad. I was way back on the first page without realizing more pages were up. And I often don't check the poster if the reply fits the rhythm...
Good luck.

I'm half interested as a hobbyist doing small items, but shipping would be prohibitive.

DanK
 
Single point means cutting the threads on a lathe with a single point 60°cutter. It is not trivial in a long skinny application like this because the rod would have to be supported very near the point of cutting, i.e. a follower is going to be needed. Single point cutting requires several passes to complete the thread making this a very time consuming method.

It doesn't make sense that the post would need to be so much harder than the nuts that run on it. Brass is very soft by comparison, even if "hard" brass. I've handled hand planes for over 60 years and have yet to encounter one with worn out threads. I have encountered rust and corrosion under the nuts, but hardness will not "fix" that. Even mild steel will be harder than the cast iron it screws into at the bottom. I would rather ruin the post than bugger the relatively delicate threads in the sole.

Are there any examples of "worn" posts available? I would want to confirm his conclusion to be sure it is indeed worn and not corroded. Part of that show should include the nuts that wore it out...
DanK
Dan, I think the problem is not the nuts, but the adjuster it probably destroys the thread while running up and down. Think a fork or clevis on the thread.
 
My bad. I was way back on the first page without realizing more pages were up. And I often don't check the poster if the reply fits the rhythm...
Good luck.

I'm half interested as a hobbyist doing small items, but shipping would be prohibitive.

DanK
Thanks
 
Just a suggestion...

I had the same problem needing some short ¼-24 studs for a Hendey lathe rebuild... I discovered that 6mm x 1.0mm threaded rod is VERY close to ¼-24...

6mm x 1.0 is easy to find... if the thread is not exact enough, it may be possible to run a ¼-24 die over it and make it work...

-Bear
 
Putting a hardened tool steel screw in that location is going to cause accelerated wear in the relatively soft brass nut that drives the mechanism. Any example of a worn screw in that location is likely decades old. This seems like a solution looking for a problem.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
Just a suggestion...

I had the same problem needing some short ¼-24 studs for a Hendey lathe rebuild... I discovered that 6mm x 1.0mm threaded rod is VERY close to ¼-24...

6mm x 1.0 is easy to find... if the thread is not exact enough, it may be possible to run a ¼-24 die over it and make it work...

-Bear
Thanks I will keep that in mind!
 
Putting a hardened tool steel screw in that location is going to cause accelerated wear in the relatively soft brass nut that drives the mechanism. Any example of a worn screw in that location is likely decades old. This seems like a solution looking for a problem.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Not really. Hard and Soft go together particularly well. Hard and Hard (gall) soft and soft (gall) not always, but opposites attract...
 
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