Got me a Heavy 10

One missing tooth on the bull gear isn't that big of a deal. You'll hear it when running, but the sound will blend in with the rest of the noise.

The headstock isn't that difficult to remove - only two bolts. It has an indexing pin in the ways themselves, so that it goes back together exactly as before.
 
Continuing with the disassembly. Found this repair someone previously did on this gear. They did a good job on the repair.
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Is the repair just a build up of bronze brazing material?

That gear almost never breaks a tooth. Probably an example of using the wrong lube on the gear wheels (grease) and a large piece of swarf getting jammed between two gears
 
Is the repair just a build up of bronze brazing material?

That gear almost never breaks a tooth. Probably an example of using the wrong lube on the gear wheels (grease) and a large piece of swarf getting jammed between two gears
I don't know if there are any screws in that bronze material.

If I had a dividing head and means to braze bronze, I'd like to do the same on my bull gear. It’s only missing one tooth, but somehow it bothers me.

Making progress:

So a 1/8” NPT straight thread grease zerk fits the motor.

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Some cleaned up bits and pieces with new felt wicks.

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I had trouble with the taper pin during disassembly of the gearbox. I mushroomed the narrow end and ended up drilling it out. I had to order a replacement #1 x 1-1/4" pin from McMaster (edited, #2 x 1-1/4”L was incorrectly stated earlier).

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All the scrubbing and wire brushing started getting tedious so I switched gears this morning and started to mill the insert at the base of a wedge type tool post that I just received.

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The AXA tool post now fits nicely on the heavy 10.

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The brass shoe on top of the spring under the back gear eccentric cam was missing. Bought an assorted variety of brass rods to make one.

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Brass shoe cut, ground and installed.
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Is rounded the right profile? Probably not. The profile should match the cross section of the object that it is locking (look at the hole from the side and match the profile to the thing that intersects the hole). The correct profile gives MAXIMUM locking force to the locked item. I'm thinking that a 45º slice across the end of the shoe would be a better match.
 
Is rounded the right profile? Probably not. The profile should match the cross section of the object that it is locking (look at the hole from the side and match the profile to the thing that intersects the hole). The correct profile gives MAXIMUM locking force to the locked item. I'm thinking that a 45º slice across the end of the shoe would be a better match.
I matched the contact profile to the ones I’ve seen on eBay for back gear assemblies and hardware.

Based on your description on the function of it being some kind of lock/brake then it would seem that it should be dished to fit the cylinder it mates to.

Thanks, I’ll measure it and get that corrected.
 
Working on the single tumbler gearbox.

Any idea why the 24t gear is the only gear that’s got wear? Maybe the lathe was used for one single operation for a long time.

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