Got me a Heavy 10

[piper184]

Thumbs up on the Ed's Red.
On the 10K that missing knob is the star wheel for the clutch, not sure if it is the same on the 10L

 

[tk1971]

Thumbs up on the Ed's Red.
On the 10K that missing knob is the star wheel for the clutch, not sure if it is the same on the 10L

Yep, I did some reading and it’s the clutch knob. The knob screw (which is left hand threaded) broke, likely from someone trying to loosen it in the wrong direction.

I was able to use a drill to remove the broken screw. I think I’ll weld something to it to make a functional knob screw.

As for the knob, the threaded clutch shaft fits a 3/8” nut. I think I can weld some rods to a bolt to make a functional knob. But first I will do more homework as to how the knob works and if I need to stack & weld two bolts together instead of one. I don’t know how the clutch knob works as of yet.

I also made some oiler set screws to replace the ones that were missing. I still need to make/get one or more oil gits.

I haven’t even wired it up yet.

 

[piper184]

Nice work.
Try checking Ebay for a clutch knob, I see them come up from time to time.
Do you have the parts manual?
I can look up the number for the knob on my 10K, if you can find one for the 10L we can compare and see if they used the same part.

 

[tk1971]

Nice work.
Try checking Ebay for a clutch knob, I see them come up from time to time.
Do you have the parts manual?
I can look up the number for the knob on my 10K, if you can find one for the 10L we can compare and see if they used the same part.

I’ve been looking at the parts manual. It shows the knob to be #48 in the diagram which shows “NLA” under the part number. The knob screw (# 40) is PT355NF1, which is shared with the 13” and 14-1/2” lathes.

I need to know how the knob works. The threaded shaft spins freely until I pull it outwards, at which point it feels locked. It may very well turn if I have a knob. Logically, turning the knob should tighten up the clutch disks. Im just not sure if I accomplish that by simply turning the knob or do I need to pull the knob out before turning. Another possibility would be that threading the knob fully onto the shaft will automatically pull the shaft outwards.

 

[682bear]

If the threaded shaft pulls out, it may be set up for a lever instead of a star knob...

Like this...



-Bear

 

[piper184]

At least the retainer screw is the same part number as is listed for the 9 and 10K apron model A & B

As you turn the knob clockwise, it draws the shaft (# AS223NK2) towards the knob which spreads the expanders (# PT353NK1) into the shoes (#PT352NK1) which then "locks up" the clutch.

Turning the knob counter-clockwise allows the spring (# 162 x 19) to push the shaft backwards and release the shoes.

I am pretty sure the knob screw is left hand just to keep the knob from spinning it loose from the shaft. I haven't actually had mine apart that far so I can not confirm this, but know that the documentation I have seen warns that this is a LEFT hand thread.

 

[tk1971]

If the threaded shaft pulls out, it may be set up for a lever instead of a star knob...

Like this...



-Bear

From the parts list diagrams, my apron does not have modifications for it to have a lever clutch (drill/tap bottom of apron & file flat for the screw/nut). From the looks of it, my lathe would have the knob.

The good news is that I received all my books and rebuild kit yesterday. Time to do some homework and start cleaning/refurbing.

 

[piper184]

Forgot to mention the 9 & 10K knob number is PT82NK1

 

[SLK001]

Here are the 10L parts diagram and list:

 

[piper184]

It looks like the clutch shaft is different than the 9 and 10K which means the knob might be different too.
Happy to take mine off and take some pictures and measurements if that will help you any.
You can probably make any kind of knob you want as long as it threads on the shaft and has a through hole for the left hand screw....