Getting the new knee mill off the pallet

They might be Dave, but I would not use them. I just don't understand how a manufacturer or distributor thinks that this is ok. Maybe none of them have had a rudimentary physics class. I just don't know.
View attachment 346306
This is one way that PM suggest lifting the mill, and the way in which I did it, although I had a different cherry picker setup than they do.
But, this is how I would not do it....
View attachment 346307
Here is text right from the manual....
"MOVING THE MILL (using lifting eyes) The four lifting eyes provided with the mill allow other lifting choices, Figure 2-5. They can be hooked directly to steel cables, or used with 1" diameter steel rods, long enough (30" plus) to allow chains to be attached at both ends. A forklift is another option if steel rods are inserted through the eyes."
Why they would even suggest that is beyond me.

I totally agree. 7milesup in post 60 explains it best in detail.


Edit. Sheesh. Just realized I was already quoting another of your posts. What a dumba$$!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk hoo
 
or used with 1" diameter steel rods, long enough (30" plus) to allow chains to be attached at both ends. A forklift is another option if steel rods are inserted through the eyes.".


Actually that part I’m okay with......chains OR forklift. The 30” length and 1” diameter specified assures a certain amount of strength AND a stability.

Plus they’re referring to a mill drill not a full size knee version. Heck two guys can lift one quite easily.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
They might be Dave, but I would not use them. I just don't understand how a manufacturer or distributor thinks that this is ok. Maybe none of them have had a rudimentary physics class. I just don't know.
View attachment 346306
This is one way that PM suggest lifting the mill, and the way in which I did it, although I had a different cherry picker setup than they do.
But, this is how I would not do it....
View attachment 346307
Here is text right from the manual....
"MOVING THE MILL (using lifting eyes) The four lifting eyes provided with the mill allow other lifting choices, Figure 2-5. They can be hooked directly to steel cables, or used with 1" diameter steel rods, long enough (30" plus) to allow chains to be attached at both ends. A forklift is another option if steel rods are inserted through the eyes."
Why they would even suggest that is beyond me.


Instead of 2x4, I wonder if you can use car jack stands instead to lift up the front legs
 
no way would I lift perpendicular to a screw eye

I understand the need for absolute rules: please don't lift that way if you don't know the design parameters.

If your angle of pull exceeds 45 degrees off the vertical on a rated, forged, premium eye bolt, it must be derated to 1/2 of its yield strength. This is a European and OSHA standard. But that doesn't mean it is safe. Only a fully qualified rigger can make a judgement in the actual situation.

I have built up actual experience over 40 years and hundreds of lifts. I've never had an 'unplanned movement'. I've never dropped anything. Often with improvised equipment. I'm trained in structural engineering but I'm NOT a board certified engineer. I have, however trained brand new engineers on the job site and corrected mistakes before someone has died.

For those who have the interest and desire to do their own moves, there are a lot of good rules to live by....

The MAIN rule is ' Don't move anything in any direction that isn't planned and you have the know-how and experience to know it is safe"

-- before you go 'safety troll': this means that beginners can use a pry bar to slide a machine as long as it isn't tilted. It means simple blocking can be used. Pipes to roll a machine can be done - if you are on mostly level ground and have an escape path. The list goes on.... I'm not about to try to make a rigging course. They sell for thousands of dollars, and for good reason.
 
Maybe I should have qualified my statement by saying that there is virtually no reason to lift a machine with 98% of its mass above the center of pivot. I am not a pro at lifting and moving, but it just is not good practice in my opinion. If you are able to lift it with those terribly placed eye bolts, why not lift it with a strap high up so the majority of mass below the lifting point.
 
If your angle of pull exceeds 45 degrees off the vertical on a rated, forged, premium eye bolt, it must be derated to 1/2 of its yield strength. This is a European and OSHA standard. But that doesn't mean it is safe. Only a fully qualified rigger can make a judgement in the actual situation.
Dabbler, in the case of my mill posted above, it isn't so much about the strength of the eye bolts vis a vis lifting with 98% of the mass above the lifting point.
 
IF the truck with lift gate can back up to your garage door...

have the driver place the pallet with mill on the gate and lower within a foot of ground level WITHOUT the pallet jack.

Slide your engine lift under the tailgate. Pick up assembly. Hopefully wheel carefully into position. Unbolt shipping pallet. Lower to floor.



This of course is totally dependent on unloading close to your shop area on a level stable surface.

I am fortunate to have forklifts on the farm..

68a50b92cb0dbd342113374291d14636.jpg



Good luck
IF the truck with lift gate can back up to your garage door...

have the driver place the pallet with mill on the gate and lower within a foot of ground level WITHOUT the pallet jack.

Slide your engine lift under the tailgate. Pick up assembly. Hopefully wheel carefully into position. Unbolt shipping pallet. Lower to floor.



This of course is totally dependent on unloading close to your shop area on a level stable surface.

I am fortunate to have forklifts on the farm..

68a50b92cb0dbd342113374291d14636.jpg



Good luck
Lis2323 has the right idea
 
I like Lis2323's idea.
Go to Harbor Freight and get a replacement Ram Cylinder for your engine hoist.
I believe it is a 3 ton cylinder and bolted right in place of my existing cylinder. I am not a Harbor Freight fan but....
 
Back
Top