Getting the new knee mill off the pallet

@Pcmaker - here are some some dimensions for you to be aware of. They're from my own recently delivered PM835S:
Pallet height 8", width 48", depth 48"
The center of the "loop" of the lifting eye atop the ram is about 69" above the bottom of the mill.

This means that the hook of your engine hoist must be capable of lifting from a point 69+8=77" above the ground. When I uncrated my mill, I looked at the height required and knew that my 2 ton engine hoist was NOT going to do the job.
 
I sent PM an email and they said they'll write a note to make the crate as short as possible so it'll fit through my garage door opening. Also, they said they'll add an "inside delivery," which means the driver will place the pallet inside my garage for an extra $60, which I gladly paid for.

As for the height of the hoist, I plan on putting the hoist on top of some 2 x 6s so my hoist will sit on top of the pallet as well as to increase the overall height of the boom, as shown on the picture in the previous page.
 
I sent PM an email and they said they'll write a note to make the crate as short as possible so it'll fit through my garage door opening. Also, they said they'll add an "inside delivery," which means the driver will place the pallet inside my garage for an extra $60, which I gladly paid for.

As for the height of the hoist, I plan on putting the hoist on top of some 2 x 6s so my hoist will sit on top of the pallet as well as to increase the overall height of the boom, as shown on the picture in the previous page.
Just to be sure, when you say your "hoist will sit on top of the pallet", you mean it will sit above the pallet, right?
 
Just to be sure, when you say your "hoist will sit on top of the pallet", you mean it will sit above the pallet, right?

Like what this picture is showing:




1607287015901.png
 
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I'm sorry if I offend anyone, but the 'lifting eye' that is on top of the ram is NOT for lifting the machine. On BPs and BP clones, this is a cast shell around 1/2" in thickness. Unless your machine weighs less than 1000 lbs, you run the very real risk of tear out.

This eye is intended for the ram and turret installation. I've learned a lot from the guys here at Modern tool, who deliver dozens of mills a year, and up to 100 in a good year. They won't even use the eye on a PM945 (equivalent). They remove it and put it in the tool box upon receiving. That mill is about 1600 lbs... 1340 lbs.

A great way to lift a mill is to use lifting bars. Mine are 3/4" X 4" X 36" cold rolled steel. They have a 3/4 NC hole in each end about 1/2" from the ends, through which 8" 3/4 ready rods (all-thread?) is run. Using a Dewalt 20v impact gun I lifted my 3800 lb mill up with ease. You lift 1/4" on a corner and do this going around the mill until it is as high as you need. To protect your floor, I took a 1/2 in fender washer and welded it to a grd 8 3/4" washer (because it's thicker) and run the ready rod on that.
 
OK I stand corrected on the ram issue. Although my trusted supplier says don't do it, the newest BP manual shows a similar lifting arrangement to @schmidty13 - lifting by the ram.

1607401103351.png
 
Screen shot from a old Bridgeport manual PDF I have. I personally prefer option #2. The eye bolt method makes me nervous.

View attachment 346484
Thats pretty much how Lagun suggests lifting in my FTV-1 manual. I'm fine with method 2, but I'm with Dabbler on Method 1. Not a big fan of lifting via that single eye. If the eye is used, be damn sure it's a top quality piece of hardware, and not some Chinese POS. And be certain you have adequate thread engagement. When I'm doing lifts at work, all of the lift eyes, shackles, etc have two things in common, the words Crosby and USA.
 
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