Nice to know we have a powder coater in the family
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Found this old South Bend lathe and it followed me home
- Thread starter olddude
- Start date
I wish you were my neighbor!
We are neighbors, just not very close neighbors. Come to think of it we are about as far away from each other as anybody in the US is. All the way from one coast to the other and then beyond.
I built that oven 25 years ago when I was in a much larger shop that had 3 phase power in it. I lost the lease on that building because the owner sold the property. It sat in storage for over ten years until I got this building finished. Now, I wish I had sold it because I could never make any money using that big oven because it uses so much juice running on single phase power. I started to convert it over to propane but now propane is so high I might as well use electric.Nice to know we have a powder coater in the family
When I built it, we were building T-tops and other aluminum structures for boats then powder coat them to what color a customer might want. Once I lost the lease on that property, I never could find anything else available in the area to move to with the room I needed for the price I could afford. I moved to a smaller place and the oven stayed in storage there until I built this place. I thought about getting 3 phase run out here but they wanted $35,000 to make it happen and that was out of the question. So now it's sitting here taking up a quarter of the shop floor attracting dust. It is a nice conservation piece though. Everybody that comes in wants to know what that big steel box is.
I did build another one that I can do small loads in. It's about 48" high, 42" wide and 30" deep and I can get most of what I need to coat in that one. I built it modular where I could add another heater pan then build a larger cover for it if it ever got to where I needed something larger. So far, it's done everything I need it to do.
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Yesterday evening I started taking some of the parts off for a good cleaning and maybe some paint. I got the taper attachment off easy enough but had trouble with the compound rest not wanting to come off the cross slide. I removed the two set screws and from what I saw on a u-tube video once they were removed it should just pop out. I didn't want to get rough with it so I just left it on the cross slide for now.
The main thing I was worried about was that the cross slide was really tight, and you had to use two hands to turn the feed handle. It first I just thought the gibs/gibbs were too tight, but I loosened all the set screws to where I could wiggle the slide and it was still tight. I took the slide completely off the saddle to where I could see the lead screw. Everything looked ok but it was still very tight. I removed the handle thinking I would be able to remove the whole thing but that is far as I got. I was thinking that the dial would pop off, but it would not come off. I can turn the dial but that's about it.
I wanted to see if the motor would start but I tried wiring that switch every way I could think of and never did get anything out of it. I'm looking for some kind of wiring diagram, but I seem to be looking in the wrong places. I should be getting that rebuild kit soon and that is supposed to have a book with it explaining how to disassemble everything, so I guess I'll just wait until then. I'm thinking now that I will just take it all apart and give the whole thing a good paint job while I'm at it, that is if I can get it apart.
The main thing I was worried about was that the cross slide was really tight, and you had to use two hands to turn the feed handle. It first I just thought the gibs/gibbs were too tight, but I loosened all the set screws to where I could wiggle the slide and it was still tight. I took the slide completely off the saddle to where I could see the lead screw. Everything looked ok but it was still very tight. I removed the handle thinking I would be able to remove the whole thing but that is far as I got. I was thinking that the dial would pop off, but it would not come off. I can turn the dial but that's about it.
I wanted to see if the motor would start but I tried wiring that switch every way I could think of and never did get anything out of it. I'm looking for some kind of wiring diagram, but I seem to be looking in the wrong places. I should be getting that rebuild kit soon and that is supposed to have a book with it explaining how to disassemble everything, so I guess I'll just wait until then. I'm thinking now that I will just take it all apart and give the whole thing a good paint job while I'm at it, that is if I can get it apart.
If the setup is the same as a 16"...Did you loosen the top bolt where you put oil on the far side of compound? That holds the nut for the leadscrew. Maybe it's binding there?
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 8,301
you need to remove the gib, back all the screws out and remove the gib. Sounds like you have left it in, and only backed out 2 of the screws. There are 4 or 6 if I remember.Yesterday evening I started taking some of the parts off for a good cleaning and maybe some paint. I got the taper attachment off easy enough but had trouble with the compound rest not wanting to come off the cross slide. I removed the two set screws and from what I saw on a u-tube video once they were removed it should just pop out. I didn't want to get rough with it so I just left it on the cross slide for now.
The main thing I was worried about was that the cross slide was really tight, and you had to use two hands to turn the feed handle. It first I just thought the gibs/gibbs were too tight, but I loosened all the set screws to where I could wiggle the slide and it was still tight. I took the slide completely off the saddle to where I could see the lead screw. Everything looked ok but it was still very tight. I removed the handle thinking I would be able to remove the whole thing but that is far as I got. I was thinking that the dial would pop off, but it would not come off. I can turn the dial but that's about it.
I wanted to see if the motor would start but I tried wiring that switch every way I could think of and never did get anything out of it. I'm looking for some kind of wiring diagram, but I seem to be looking in the wrong places. I should be getting that rebuild kit soon and that is supposed to have a book with it explaining how to disassemble everything, so I guess I'll just wait until then. I'm thinking now that I will just take it all apart and give the whole thing a good paint job while I'm at it, that is if I can get it apart.
Nawh, the brass nut for the cross slide is held on by a screw in the top of the slide itself. When I removed the slide that nut is still attached to the cross slide. The lead screw looks good with what I can see that is. I has to be bound up where it enters the slide at the dial. There is only about 2/3 inches of the screw you cant see at that point as it enters the slide.
I have removed the slide, it's laying on the bench and I can see most of the lead screw it's bound up where it enters the cross slide.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 8,301
time to unscrew the lead screw housing. if you don't have the proper pin spanner, find a rod, or pin that will fit in the hole, and use a plumbers wrench to turn it. back it out and turn the handle to release it from the brass nut.