2009 mini cooper clubman, timing chain and valve seals

I'm wondering what the dealer (or good independent shop) would charge just to re-time the engine- just re-time it and give it back.
Probably wouldn't be that simple; they would want to do more and charge accordingly. Might be worth a couple phone calls though

The problems must all be timing related since it was essentially running ok before, just smoking a bit from your description
-Mark
 
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Yeah, I don’t have a lot of good to say about gm trucks either….have had lots, always something needing attention on them. Never had a new one, perhaps they’re better under warranty….
NEW?! No way; I like 1989 to '94 or so. 4.3 V6 w/700R trans mission. Good gas mileage, pulls like a 5 year old hanging on to candy!
Exceeding little electronic foo-foo to mess with and every thing's right there. I typically look for one with 120,000 to 200,000 miles on it and run it to 300,000 plus miles. I've had two and looking for my third.
 
NEW?! No way; I like 1989 to '94 or so. 4.3 V6 w/700R trans mission. Good gas mileage, pulls like a 5 year old hanging on to candy!
Exceeding little electronic foo-foo to mess with and every thing's right there. I typically look for one with 120,000 to 200,000 miles on it and run it to 300,000 plus miles. I've had two and looking for my third.
Haven’t hard much luck with thise trucks either. Basically throw aways for me.
 
I'm wondering what the dealer (or good independent shop) would charge just to re-time the engine- just re-time it and give it back.
Probably wouldn't be that simple; they would want to do more and charge accordingly. Might be worth a couple phone calls though

The problems must all be timing related since it was essentially running ok before, just smoking a bit from your description
-Mark
Couple of years ago i charged 550 euros, had 425 euros in parts, but i had to change valves, valve seals, head gasket, entire timing set. That was on a peugeot 207 with a same engine.
 
I'm wondering what the dealer (or good independent shop) would charge just to re-time the engine- just re-time it and give it back.
Probably wouldn't be that simple; they would want to do more and charge accordingly. Might be worth a couple phone calls though

The problems must all be timing related since it was essentially running ok before, just smoking a bit from your description
-Mark
I suspect you'd be "politely" told to eff off.

Had a service manager take a car in once. The work order read "charge rear left spark plug".

Umm, what?

Turns out the owner had tried to change the spark plugs on the car himself. It was one of those gm v8's where the rear plugs were all but impossible to change. I'm thinking it was a Camaro or Firebird, but I can't recall for certain. The tech who got the work order did the job, but we had a meeting in the break room that day at end of work.

Basically, we all told the desk guy (not a tech) if he did that again, we were all going to drag him out back and beat the life out of him.

Most shops really don't like taking work you've already tried and failed at. There's just no knowing what is wrong in there.

When they do take it, it's very often double time charges to do the work. At a minimum, owner "worked on" cars were charged straight time, not the Mitchel manual. And gawd help you if you were being charged straight time. Coffe breaks, smoke breaks, whatever....the clock was running at 80 bucks an hour (this was a while ago, it's something like 100-150 and hour now I think) and you were footing the bill....

IOW, the charges basically meant:

Go the eff away with your effed up car!
 
Cam gears are in Mirabel and just left (in transit). Delivery is scheduled for wed, but with any luck they'll show up tomorrow.

I was worried Fedex was going to rook me on the "brokerage" charges, but it was 59 bucks for taxes and services, which I can live with.

I'm still skeptical they will fix the misfire code, but you never know.....
 
Is so strange for me to read about the practices car shops there. Around here there is lots of cases one shop make it worse than negates that they worked on it. After that owner sells it for scrap or founds a good shop and pays a lot more to get the job done right. I've had friends and relatives get burned by bad shops, cost them hundreds in repairs and ended up changing the entire engine after. Yesterday i car flipper was asking me to work on some of his projects, he had 4 cars with various degrees of bad engines. All of then needed a replacement engines, he was asking just to slap used bearings in them, not even new. I declined, Knowing him he'll tell who ever buy them that it had a engine rebuild done by me. There are some notorious cars like peugeot biturbo v6 like i have in the 607 many land rovers that even manufacturers won't repair. Those cases end up in my garage.
 
Is so strange for me to read about the practices car shops there. Around here there is lots of cases one shop make it worse than negates that they worked on it. After that owner sells it for scrap or founds a good shop and pays a lot more to get the job done right. I've had friends and relatives get burned by bad shops, cost them hundreds in repairs and ended up changing the entire engine after. Yesterday i car flipper was asking me to work on some of his projects, he had 4 cars with various degrees of bad engines. All of then needed a replacement engines, he was asking just to slap used bearings in them, not even new. I declined, Knowing him he'll tell who ever buy them that it had a engine rebuild done by me. There are some notorious cars like peugeot biturbo v6 like i have in the 607 many land rovers that even manufacturers won't repair. Those cases end up in my garage.
Probably a little different over here. Shops are highly regulated, must be licensed, etc. Those are professional shops, a guy working out of his own garage on a piecemeal basis is a different story. You can repair cars and take your chances on liability as an individual, but you can't claim you're licensed as a repair shop. Unless you want to jump through the hoops to get the business license. Not an inexpensive thing......and it's not the same as being a licensed mechanic.
 
Did I mention how much is despise car parts made of plastic? Well, I do!

Latest PITA was metal screws holding the airbox together. They knew it was a marginally acceptable solution because they used screw threads that look more like deck screw threads than anything machine oriented.

And sure enough, out of 4 screws, 3 stripped the plastic right out of thier bores when I removed them.

Much creative cursing followed…

So, now theres no way to tighten the airbox lid to compress the air filter gasket and make a seal to the maf sensor.

What to do?

JB Weld to the rescue!

I used JB Qwik as it sets in 30 minutes.

First I wrapped the screw threads in a layer of teflon tape (ie: plumbers tape). Then I mixed up the jb qwik and smeared all 4 holes until they were full. Then I removed the air filter and ran the lid screws down into the JB as far as they would go. Luckily, they all had a little plastic left in the hole bottoms as the removal of the air filter allowed them to go a little deeper and they grabbed and held tight.

30 minutes later the jb has cured, I run the screws back out and after a little force the lid pops off (some JB bleed out and grabbed it).

Peeled the teflon tape off the screws (or pulled it out of the new holes) and its repaired!


I tend to stay away from things like epoxies and such for repairs, but sometimes…just sometimes…they’re the right tool for the job…
 
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