2009 mini cooper clubman, timing chain and valve seals

I think what we are seeing now is more "disposable" vehicles- sad but true.
I've had similar experiences with underhood plastics
 
I purchased a plastic welder last year. I don’t know how I survived before what a great tool. I wish I had one in my sons earlier years. So many plastic toys thrown away because of a little plastic clip broke. Not any more!! Ps one can be made from a soldering iron and like plastic material.
 
Cadillac said:
I purchased a plastic welder last year. I don’t know how I survived before what a great tool. I wish I had one in my sons earlier years. So many plastic toys thrown away because of a little plastic clip broke. Not any more!! Ps one can be made from a soldering iron and like plastic material.
Click to expand...
Yep, thats how I “weld” plastic, but I use a wood burning tool. Lower temperature, less plastic damage….
 
I got it all back together and p0301 (#1 cylinder misfire) was still there at higher rpms under no load conditions.
Figured I’d pull the head off, have a look and at least lap the valves.

Pulled the exhaust header off and:

IMG_3231.jpeg

WTF?!?!?!?

#1 cylinder is nearly blocked right off! The loose pieces of carbon on the exhaust flange were bouncing around in the exhaust port. I figure high rpm pushed the “chunks” against the #1 blockage and plugged off the cylinder nearly 100%.
weird thing is the engine ran silky smooth and the misfire only showed up at higher rpms.

I’m half curious and half scared to see whats going in in the cylinder…
 
#1 and 4 cylinders must have been running really rich to produce that much coke. Which is weird as this is a direct injection engine, right?
 
I've seen this on a TU3j4 engine, the hydraulic lifter for the exhaust was weak, i can push it down by hand. Clean the carbon and try it, if still trows that code then take the head off.
 
mattthemuppet2 said:
#1 and 4 cylinders must have been running really rich to produce that much coke. Which is weird as this is a direct injection engine, right?
Click to expand...
Nope, it's oil. Valve seals were toast and these engines (Peugeot) actually have plastic oil control ring. Yes, you read that right; they put PLASTIC in the oil control rings on an INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE PISTON!

WTF?!?!?

These engines known oil burners. I believe Mini (IE: BMW) even released a tech bulletin that a liter per 1000 kms was considered "normal" consumption rates. Yeah, right; maybe it's "normal"......... on a worn out engine you don't want to replace on warranty that is......

I've seen exhaust ports coked up on engines burning oil before, but never to this extreme.

At any rate, THE is coming off aS I'm going to hone the cylinders and replace those stupidly engineered rings with proper 3 piece oil control rings. I'm using SM rings, which are high quality German manufactured rings. Apparently, they're the "go to" fix for these engines in the UK. If it's coming apart, I'm going to fix it and fix it right so I'm not right back here in another year or two.

The N12 isn't direct injection, that's the turbocharged coopers. The TC engines are direct infection, NA are not. This is also on the exhaust side, DI engines in the coopers carbon up the intake valves, not so much the exhaust.
 
Last edited:
Head's off:

fr_4288.jpg

fr_4287.jpg

Not too bad. Was expecting more build up on the piston crowns.

Valves and seats are good. I'll still lightly lap them to clean up the sealing surfaces a bit. No dropped valve seats, which is a problem on these cars if have been overheated.

Intake ports and valves pretty clean, exhaust side is a different story. Lots of coking and build up. Easy clean and back into service though.

Head is stripped and pressure washed. Next is an inspect, lap the valves and then start to reassemble.

My piston rings showed up. turns out the seller substituted "RIK" piston rings without telling me. A little back and forth and they refunded my money. I lost the taxes and duties, but that's better than loosing it all. Have another set on order from a different seller. they assured genuine rings and no substitutions. We'll see whats what when they get here.

I was a bit surprised to find a plastic tube buried behind he engine block in the engine heat. Turns out its the main pipe from water pump to thermostat housing. A little internet research reveals they are another know weak point in the design. This is the wife's car, so I want to make sure it's as reliable as possible. Turns out ecstuning in the 'States offers a tube in powdercoated aluminum:

1845227_x800.jpg





Was on about 30 bucks more than the original mini plastic one, so I ordered it. Lets see: 15 psi and 200+ degrees. Plastic or aluminum? yeah, that's not a hard choice. Seems the oem ones are prone to cracking off at the o-ring area where it goes into the back of the water pump. Can't do anything about it, it eventually just happens and when it does, you don't know until the car either stops or you see the steam. No temp gauge in the car, at least none you can see without going through a couple menu options. If you run too long like that, the head overheats and the valve seats drop out of their bores. My wife isn't exactly the most "in tune" person with their car, so I need to make it as foolproof for her as possible.

Coming along.....
 
Last edited:
That pipe a real hassle to change and is used in many makes, my brothers octavia's both have plastic pipes coming out of the water pump. I don't remember is the end of the pump on the N12 engine plastic or aluminium, if is aluminium on aluminium that is a very good solution.
 
GoceKU said:
That pipe a real hassle to change and is used in many makes, my brothers octavia's both have plastic pipes coming out of the water pump. I don't remember is the end of the pump on the N12 engine plastic or aluminium, if is aluminium on aluminium that is a very good solution.
Click to expand...
As OEM designed, pump is aluminum, pipe is 100% plastic, end to end. They split/crack where the o ring mounts:

download.png

It just demonstrates to me that they designed this thing to get it through the warranty period and to reduce costs in manufacturing as much as possible.

Sadly, it's how they build things these days. Don't build it to last, build it to maximize profits.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top