2009 mini cooper clubman, timing chain and valve seals

[wachuko]

Not a jeep, but still a pentastar 3.6 v6….

Edit: looked up the tsb. Applicable vehicles listed as only a 2022 Jeep Gladiator. Wife’s is a 2014 Town and Country (ie: minivan) so it doesn’t apply. The cylinder head has already been checked for the earlier models cracking heads and its good. Swapped the #2 coil with number 4 and fault remained on #2 cyl.

Tomorrow, plan is to pull the valve cover off and check the rocker arms, which are known to fail around the odo reading on her van. It’s enough of a problem that Chrysler redesigned them a few years ago. I ordered enough rocker arms and lash adjusters to do one full head a while ago when I stsrted hesring chrysler might be going on strike. Good thing too be ause the local dealer is now saying its starting to get harder to order them in….still available, but having to bring them in from further away…

Understood, but if easy to get to, I would first check the oxygen sensor just in case is that simple...

 

[great white]

Understood, but if easy to get to, I would first check the oxygen sensor just in case is that simple...

Onky way to really “check” an o2 sensor is itlthrows a code (ie: voltage readings out of spec), scope it or replace it.

A “visual inspection” is worthless. They all look the same shortly after being installed.

I may throw the o-scope on it and check its signal just becuase, but unlikey its the problem.

The Pentastar 3.6 is a decent enough engine (lord knows there enough of them out there) but they do have certain known shortcomings. Head overheating and cracking on early models is one, the rocker arm roller bearing failures is another. The redesigned the heads is 2012-13 to stop the cracking (larger coolant passages on the left/forward head) and the rocker arms were redesigned somewhere in the late 2016-17 timeframe.

 

[wachuko]

Onky way to really “check” an o2 sensor is itlthrows a code (ie: voltage readings out of spec), scope it or replace it.

A “visual inspection” is worthless. They all look the same shortly after being installed.

I may throw the o-scope on it and check its signal just becuase, but unlikey its the problem.

The Pentastar 3.6 is a decent enough engine (lord knows there enough of them out there) but they do have certain known shortcomings. Head overheating and cracking on early models is one, the rocker arm roller bearing failures is another. The redesigned the heads is 2012-13 to stop the cracking (larger coolant passages on the left/forward head) and the rocker arms were redesigned somewhere in the late 2016-17 timeframe.

Got it. I was only going by what was shared in the Jeep forum

 

[great white]

So, fixed the rear brake problem today. Turns out the brake wear sensor wire had broken off.

Of course, I had it all pulled apart by then. The pads had about 50% wear, but the rotors were kind of rough. One you could see the heat hardened spots and th other had a rock or something caught between the rotor and pads and made a big, deep gouge around the diameter.

I had new rotors and pads on hand, so I just went ahead and replaced it all. Parts were already bought and it was all apart so it just made sense to put new parts on.

Thats when the “PO” started. Brakes, so it was dirty as heck, no matter how many times you hit it with brake clean. But the biggest PO was trying to retract the brake caliper pistons. Tried my big c-clamp first: nope, not even thinking about moving. Grab the service manual and yep, they screw in.

Over to the mill and spin out an adapter to use with a ratchet. Works a treat. Spins the piston easily.

Except……

It’s not retracting, just spinning. WTH?

I boot up the factory digital service manual and go to the brakes section.

Aha! They have a “special tool”.

I pull up the reference and it turns out the brake tool has to simultaneously spin the piston while forcing it back.

Now, if I was some joker with a socket set and a keen desire to so my own work, I would understand needing to buy a “brake tool”. But I’m not. I used to be a mechanic and have a fully stacked box. I never would have needed ti buy a “special tool” to do brakes with my setup.

A little digging reveals my rear disc conversion on my mustang, the wifes mini van rear brakes and probably my newer f150 use the same type of setup and need the same tool.

80 bucks and a trip to crappy tire later, tool in hand and finished up the mini brakes.

Hook up the scanner and go through a dozen settings and resets and all the warning lights on the dash are “off”.

I can’t believe the engineers change things that have worked for decades to something you need “special tools” to work on.

Oh well, way of the world these days I guess….

 

[pdentrem]

Rear disk brakes are a PITA and unless it’s a race car or heavy truck, WHY? Sales gimmick!

 

[great white]

Rear disk brakes are a PITA and unless it’s a race car or heavy truck, WHY? Sales gimmick!

More like saves labor hours on the production line.
Its a lot faster to push a loaded caliper on a disc and screw in two bolts as opposed to fiddle Effing around with all those little springs and levers in a drum brake setup.

 

[MikeWi]

More like saves labor hours on the production line.
Its a lot faster to push a loaded caliper on a disc and screw in two bolts as opposed to fiddle Effing around with all those little springs and levers in a drum brake setup.

And that's why I prefer rotors!

 

[great white]

And that's why I prefer rotors!

Oh, they’re certainly not perfect.

You’ve got exposed mechanicals in the most destructive and corrosive location on a vehicle: the rear wheels. Road debris, sand, gravel, water, salt, etc. it all constantly bathes the rear brakes in a quagmire of destruction.

Where drum brakes may last for decades in that postion, disc brakes seldom will give tou more than 5-odd years in a northern/central climate. The rotors rust, flake, warp and destroy pads before thier time. Pistons also corrode and stick in thier bores.

Discs may be simpler and superior for braking power, but drums survive harsh environments much better.

It’s all kind of moot though. You buy your vehicle and you get what you get….