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One thing to bear in mind when setting pressure regulators on compressors...

**Some** not all, but some pressure regulators, allow for the kick-out and kick-in pressures to be set separately, others, the vast majority in fact, only allow setting both at the same time, so by lowering the kick-out (turn compressor off) maximum pressure, you are also lowering the kick-in (turn compressor on) pressure.

If you DO derate to a lower pressure (that is what lowering the max pressure is termed as) and intend to keep it at that point permenantly, you should change the safety valve to match the new max pressure, even if the tank is rated for higher pressure.

Depending on the tool and how many CFM is used by said tool, you can actually inadvertantly run the compressor more by lowering the max pressure than if you left it alone.

My own compressor was sold as a 10bar /145.3PSI unit. I derated it to 8 bar and switched out the safety valve for one to suit the new max pressure. Given what I use it for, it has never been a problem.
 
the regulator I'm talking about is a separate unit that has nothing to do with my Quincy compressor. it mounts in the air line on the wall above the compressor. if I want less pressure, I turn a T-handle and it bleeds off air until it reaches the new setting. the compressor then shuts off at that setting, be it 180psi or 30 psi. to increase pressure the reverse is done.
 
You know, I could be wrong. I need to check that in the morning. the compressor may be filling to max, and the regulator may just turn it back on when it needs more air.
 
yota said:
the regulator I'm talking about is a separate unit that has nothing to do with my Quincy compressor. it mounts in the air line on the wall above the compressor. if I want less pressure, I turn a T-handle and it bleeds off air until it reaches the new setting. the compressor then shuts off at that setting, be it 180psi or 30 psi. to increase pressure the reverse is done.
Click to expand...

That is not how compressors work.

That independant, inline regulator you are using merely drops the supplied pressure to what you want it to be. The Compressor will still start / shut off at the rated pressure governed by the pressure regulator that controls when the motor runs which, in turn, runs the compressor head.
 
Beat me to it. Was typing my comment, double checking before posting as you posted.
 
den-den said:
Yes a regulator is the final pressure control but the pump works harder at higher pressure and will last longer if stopped at a lower pressure, more energy efficient too. It just does not make sense IMO to pump up to 175 psi and then waste so much energy thru a regulator to get the 90 psi that I want.
Click to expand...
The pressure allows you to put more compressed SCF (Volume) into a smaller Actual ACF Volume. So at 125PSI each actual CF contains 9.66 SCF of air while at 175PSI each actual CF contains 13.124 SCF of air.
 
GrifterGuru said:
One thing to bear in mind when setting pressure regulators on compressors...

**Some** not all, but some pressure regulators, allow for the kick-out and kick-in pressures to be set separately, others, the vast majority in fact, only allow setting both at the same time, so by lowering the kick-out (turn compressor off) maximum pressure, you are also lowering the kick-in (turn compressor on) pressure.

If you DO derate to a lower pressure (that is what lowering the max pressure is termed as) and intend to keep it at that point permenantly, you should change the safety valve to match the new max pressure, even if the tank is rated for higher pressure.

Depending on the tool and how many CFM is used by said tool, you can actually inadvertantly run the compressor more by lowering the max pressure than if you left it alone.

My own compressor was sold as a 10bar /145.3PSI unit. I derated it to 8 bar and switched out the safety valve for one to suit the new max pressure. Given what I use it for, it has never been a problem.
Click to expand...
First, a pressure regulator isn't the device that controls the high and low operating set points, that would be the pressure switch, second lowering the pressure of the PSV isn't necessary but is completely arbitrary as it is set, on residential air compressors 10% to 15% below the design pressure of the receiver and is strictly a safety to prevent an over pressure, it has nothing to do with the operation of the compressor or the receiver. Thirdly, unless you are an ASME registered shop with a National Board plate your not de-rating anything, your simply choosing to operate at a lower pressure than the equipment is capable of handling. All the pressure regulator does in control the pressure of the flow bleeding out of the tank, if your receiver is operated at 175PSI or 12.07 Bar and you are painting which would have the regulator set at 60PSI or 4.14 Bar then the compressor will not run as often because it take longer to reach the low set point of the Pressure switch.
 
yota said:
You know, I could be wrong. I need to check that in the morning. the compressor may be filling to max, and the regulator may just turn it back on when it needs more air.
Click to expand...
The Pressure switch will kick it on when it reaches the low set point and off when it reaches the high set point, you regulator will simply control the amount of time before it hits the low set point.
 
verbotenwhisky said:
First, a pressure regulator isn't the device that controls the high and low operating set points, that would be the pressure switch, second lowering the pressure of the PSV isn't necessary but is completely arbitrary as it is set, on residential air compressors 10% to 15% below the design pressure of the receiver and is strictly a safety to prevent an over pressure, it has nothing to do with the operation of the compressor or the receiver. Thirdly, unless you are an ASME registered shop with a National Board plate your not de-rating anything, your simply choosing to operate at a lower pressure than the equipment is capable of handling. All the pressure regulator does in control the pressure of the flow bleeding out of the tank, if your receiver is operated at 175PSI or 12.07 Bar and you are painting which would have the regulator set at 60PSI or 4.14 Bar then the compressor will not run as often because it take longer to reach the low set point of the Pressure switch.
Click to expand...
Pressure switch / Pressure regulator, both were used to mean the same thing when I was in the industry.

Yes, I can see how that could be confusing but we knew what we meant.

Also, it was also referred to as "de-rating" if the pressure was set lower. Just how it was when I was in the industry.
 
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