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Modifying a Follow Rest
- Thread starter G-ManBart
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1,155
Great idea! That's why I ask questions here even if I think I've got a good plan
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2022
- Messages
- 161
I believe on your follow rest I would consider welding on a steel extension and then re-machining the slot for the bolt – simply making it oblong to fit. If you preheat and wrap with a welding blanket afterwards, I don’t think there would be a problem with cracking or warping as you would only be adding a piece to the end.
On my steady rests I usually scrape their bases to the beds as this improves contact area and reduces vibration transfer. Also, on the follow rest you might consider the feasibility of adding the lower third finger. This doesn’t carry a great deal of load but if you are doing ACME threading especially on smaller diameter this can really help dampen the possibility of chatter.
I’ve included a few pictures of the steady rest I modified. This Clausing 15” steady rest had approximately 1/2 inch removed from its base and then a 1/2 inch steel blank added back to the top portion of the base to restore the original thickness. This was preheated, welded with nickel cast iron rod and then post-heated and wrapped. All these pieces were beveled prior to welding. I had no problem with cracking or warping. I then ground and filled it.
The follow rest was only a bare casting that was cut off, machined and modified. Then new fingers and screws were made for it.
Both worked well. I even had the added benefit of gaining a little larger capacity in terms of diameter on the steady rest. This all took a couple days to do but it works well and looks more original.
Jeff
On my steady rests I usually scrape their bases to the beds as this improves contact area and reduces vibration transfer. Also, on the follow rest you might consider the feasibility of adding the lower third finger. This doesn’t carry a great deal of load but if you are doing ACME threading especially on smaller diameter this can really help dampen the possibility of chatter.
I’ve included a few pictures of the steady rest I modified. This Clausing 15” steady rest had approximately 1/2 inch removed from its base and then a 1/2 inch steel blank added back to the top portion of the base to restore the original thickness. This was preheated, welded with nickel cast iron rod and then post-heated and wrapped. All these pieces were beveled prior to welding. I had no problem with cracking or warping. I then ground and filled it.
The follow rest was only a bare casting that was cut off, machined and modified. Then new fingers and screws were made for it.
Both worked well. I even had the added benefit of gaining a little larger capacity in terms of diameter on the steady rest. This all took a couple days to do but it works well and looks more original.
Jeff
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2016
- Messages
- 930
Quite a few years ago I had a similar issue with finding a steady rest for my lathe. I finally purchased a used one for a different lathe and modified it to work on mine. If you're concerned with welding your follow rest, you may consider doing something similar to what I did with my steady rest. I machined the bottom of the stead rest and then made a new base for it that is bolted on (no welding). It has worked well. Just some food for thought. Attaching a few photos of what I did.
Ted
- Joined
- May 7, 2023
- Messages
- 1,885
I was assured by a certified glue-stick mechanic that this does not happen, though my experience differs.
However on this type of job I doubt it would matter.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 7,062
Said glue stick mechanic never welded before... Things warp due to the uneven heating. It's all about managing or minimizing the movement. I've not quite mastered that, but at least I'm getting a little better at it. Long ago I welded on an extension to my welding table and watched it move upwards more than a 1/4", due to the way I had welded it. Oops.
Side by side or next to...
Instead of trying to extend the length, make a new piece that bolts to the existing holes in carriage.
Piece must be somewhat narrow, holes offset to allow room for the follow rest to sit next to it.
Drill holes sideways to cross bolt together
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Instead of trying to extend the length, make a new piece that bolts to the existing holes in carriage.
Piece must be somewhat narrow, holes offset to allow room for the follow rest to sit next to it.
Drill holes sideways to cross bolt together
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1,155
I like the theory, but I think it would move the follower fingers too far from where they need to be. I think the compound would interfere with the top of the follower if put the follower slightly behind the bolts and the fingers too far forward of the cutter if I put it slightly in front of the holes.
- Joined
- May 7, 2023
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- 1,885
Claimed to be a certified welder.
Then again he most likely measures with a tape measure rather than a indicator.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,377
How about a hold down that screws into your carriage but locates into the bolt hole in your follower? Like the clamp in an indexable lathe tool, like a so:
