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[How-To] Tool post for 9x21 Logan
- Thread starter Baggs
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
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- 791
Sorry to report you have a broken compound/top-slide. A new tool holder won't fix that. That's why there is the plate on top and the tool holder on top of that. eBay is your friend, you can try the forum or Facebook group Scott Logan, grandson of the founder moderates. The forum is probably better for finding a compound. There are two types, make sure you know what you are looking for. A manual is your friend.
The square with 4 places for tools isn't a bad holder, it is set just below the chuck center line and then shims are used to get the tool on the center line.
The square with 4 places for tools isn't a bad holder, it is set just below the chuck center line and then shims are used to get the tool on the center line.
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- Mar 9, 2018
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Something like this may work as a replacement for the compound, but double check things on your end.
AXA size will almost certainly work for you. Aloris is nice, to be sure. But if you’re only using it a handful of times a year, get a cheap Amazon/ebay special.
I’ve got a 10” Logan and I’ve been using a cheap Chinese tool holder for ~5yrs.
South Bend 9 Early Workshop Lathe Compound | eBay
<p>This is off of an early 9” workshop lathe… the type with the oilers on top of the headstock. I don’t know how universal they are with the “newer” 9” lathes </p>
www.ebay.com
AXA size will almost certainly work for you. Aloris is nice, to be sure. But if you’re only using it a handful of times a year, get a cheap Amazon/ebay special.
I’ve got a 10” Logan and I’ve been using a cheap Chinese tool holder for ~5yrs.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 791
Nope, the South Bend won't fit a Logan. There are two types. The newer ones have a single post "pintle" like this one:Something like this may work as a replacement for the compound, but double check things on your end.
South Bend 9 Early Workshop Lathe Compound | eBay
<p>This is off of an early 9” workshop lathe… the type with the oilers on top of the headstock. I don’t know how universal they are with the “newer” 9” lathes </p>www.ebay.com
AXA size will almost certainly work for you. Aloris is nice, to be sure. But if you’re only using it a handful of times a year, get a cheap Amazon/ebay special.
I’ve got a 10” Logan and I’ve been using a cheap Chinese tool holder for ~5yrs.
Older ones use tee bolts in a round tee slot like this though this one is for a 10"
Don't know what you are looking to have with your lathe, "nice" or"functional." I have a compound that also had the tee slots broken off. The previous owner had it milled and two pieces of what looks like cold rolled installed with screws where the top of the tee was. Have never used it, so can't verify how well it will work. Drop me a direct message if you're interested.
I'm in agreement here, there's broken stuff under the existing tool post that needs to be addressed (or at least assessed) before you add anything new.
I'm gonna recommend that you take that existing tool post completely off, and get us some pictures of the empty top slide/compound slide and determine if there's enough left to "work with" for a plausible, functional workaround, or if the damage is such that it is just going to make a new tool post into the same exact problem you have now, except probably worse.
After the top slide is addressed, you would obviously have the option of going to a quick change tool post, or the tool post that's on there "looks" fully functional if it was bolted down tight and straight.
Those four way posts that you have are not bad really. (Free advice from a luddite who still uses a rocker post by choice). They do work well and they are rigid. While quick change posts are very quick to change, for a low use machine (which this appears to be) it's not that "slow" to change a tool in your four way either. You've just got to standardize on one size of tool, which you would probably do anyhow. Final shimming (normal for that type of four way post) can be as simple as superglue and some shim stock. You can then have a permanent, but still removable shim glued on each cutter, so it's just a couple three grub screws and they're ready to go.
It looks bad from what you showed, but pictures of the underlying problem would be the best way find the most direct route to a satisfactory result.
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