Tool and cutter grinder build

[cjtoombs]

Looking forward to seeing this build. I have looked at both the Bonelle and the Quorn myself. I wound up finding a great deal on a KO Lee T&C grinder, so I am no longer in need of either of these, but if I ever downsize my garage, one would be handy. If you need a book on operating one, a KO Lee manual for one of these machines has a very comprehensive set of instructions for just about anything you will want to grind.

 

[Mark_f]

Looking forward to seeing this build. I have looked at both the Bonelle and the Quorn myself. I wound up finding a great deal on a KO Lee T&C grinder, so I am no longer in need of either of these, but if I ever downsize my garage, one would be handy. If you need a book on operating one, a KO Lee manual for one of these machines has a very comprehensive set of instructions for just about anything you will want to grind.

Yea, I been thinking about that. I suppose I'll have to make a bunch of accessories to grind tools and also have to figure out how to do it .:veryscared:

 

[cjtoombs]

Yea, I been thinking about that. I suppose I'll have to make a bunch of accessories to grind tools and also have to figure out how to do it .:veryscared:

I found the manual one ebay, I have ordered other manuals from this guy and they are very good quality. The accessories are the only reason the one I bought was a good deal, I got the machine with most of the available accessories for about the cost of the accessories by themselves. I looked for one for a long time, and they never came with any tooling, and the tooling to make a T&C grinder useful tends to be expensive. There are quite a few of accessories for the Quorn described in its book, I expect they could easily adapted to the one you are building.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-O-LEE-Uni...310?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ae1ab386

 

[fastback]

I have been following this build and you are doing a wonderful job. If nothing else I'll learn how to take my time. Doing some of the work in the bedroom really brings meaning to "I'll sleep on it". Great job, really looking forward to seeing more.

Paul

 

[Mark_f]

I did some machining on the tilting bracket today and temporarily assembled the parts to see how they fit and look.

All looks good, so now to finish these parts and get them assembled for good.

 

[Mark_f]

I FINALLY DID IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got the micrometer put together. It only took an hour and a half. :rofl: :rofl: There are also two little steel ball bearings somewhere on my floor , never to be seen again. anic: ( I was smart, needed two , bought six). I realize this don't look all that big a deal till you try to hold those two balls in the hole in the screw with the spring between them and put the thimble on at the same time. I spent most of the time looking for little steel balls that shot out and bounced off something and rolled away. The darn thing works great though. The balls ride in a groove in the thimble keeping pressure on it, tight enough to follow the screw when it is turned, but still easy to re-position for "zero" when desired. A thumb screw lock is not needed. I wasn't sure this was going to work, but I am really impressed with this design. ( sometimes it don't take a lot to impress me :nuts My wife was watching this ( I think she is still laughing)

The print will give you a vision of how it works.

 

[herbet999]

nice.. did you have to use two different knurl wheels for the two different diameters?

 

[Mark_f]

nice.. did you have to use two different knurl wheels for the two different diameters?

Naw......I just have the cheap one. Knurling for me is a shot in the dark. Sometimes it works and most times it's crappy :rofl:. A friend recently showed me how to knurl better.

 

[NEL957]

Mark
Sorry you lost your ball. There is a remedy for that, and that is a drop of Loctite, works well.
Keep up the nice work, it's starting to look really nice.
Nelson Collar

 

[Mark_f]

I spent a few hours in my friends shop today to work on the grinder ( mine was too cold....18 degrees today ). My goal was ( which I did achieve), to do the finish machining on the lower half of the work head.


I really wanted to get the curved slots milled in the front plate. I did this on the rotary table. To make it easy, I went to my shop yesterday and set my lathe up to make an MT2 taper with a 3/4" blank end on it. Once rolling , I cranked out a half a dozen of them. They will be used as tooling for my rotary table. I chucked one up and turned a .375" stub on the end. The center hole in my rotary table is MT2. I chucked the stub in the mill spindle and lowered the spindle with the stub into the rotary table till it was snug, locked the spindle and tightened the clamps for holding the rotary table in place. Presto! it is automatically centered to within 1 or 2 thousandths. ( I read about this somewhere and it saves so much time). The hole in my plate is .375", so I just put it on the stub that I left in the center of the table, clamped the part down and it is set to mill. No indicator required. As you can see in the photos, I just cranked the mill table out the amount of my radius and milled the slot. the whole process took about 20 minutes. I will save this stub and make a bushing for what ever diameter I need and put it on the stub and my part is located as soon as I set it on the table.

I also drilled a few more holes in the base blocks for split cotter clamps. I have decided to use them instead of pinch bolts in split holes for locks. Everyone says they are better, but sure are a lot more work to make. With any luck , I can permanently assemble the lower half of the work head soon.