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Bill Gruby
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You have done well with the Micrometer adjustment Mark. Did you stay with two thrust bearings or go to one?
"Billy G"
"Billy G"
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Tool and cutter grinder build
- Thread starter Mark_f
- Start date
Actually , no thrust bearings. I modified the Quorn micrometer by adding a steel ball bearing ball to each end and a stout spring. I can adjust the micrometer fairly easy but I can't overcome the spring by hand. If by chance I somehow did manage to overcome the spring, It would be away from the wheel. I felt this added some safety, but then that is some of my paranoid OCD :nuts:.
The thimble has enough tension from the two ball bearings to stay in place when the micrometer is adjusted but i can overcome the tension easy enough to set zero. I wont need a screw lock I don't believe.
There will be a steel ball between the end cap and the spring. The 1/2-20 thread gave me .050" per turn so there is about .100" between each graduation on the dial and one mark is .001" so I can pretty well judge to .0005" on the micrometer.I am making new drawings for each step so I have drawings to match mt build when finished. I have been making a lot of changes. Things heavier and more rigid, longer base, and simplifying some things. I find the Bonell is kind of over engineered in some aspects.
I like the changes you are making, as I think this will make the grinder more stable and robust. This is going to get interesting!
You are at the top of the list for the altered prints when the grinder is done.
Not a lot done today. I cut and polished the two support bars for the base.
These are the bars cut and polished. I also cut out the front and back plates for the work head and got them all laid out for drilling and milling. I also laid out the pocket that gets milled in the sliding base.
Since the shop is so cold, I high jacked the kitchen table and moved it to my bed room so I can work on the grinder in a warm environment. I can work here laying out and measuring, then go to the shop to do the cutting.
I spent 5 hours today sorting through and editing prints. That is tedious work, takes a lot of time, but it has to be done. I erase half the crap on the prints that doesn't need to be there or That I don't need an add my own crap that I am changing. I am going to make a fixture tomorrow for my rotary table to mill the curved slots in the front plate.
These are the bars cut and polished. I also cut out the front and back plates for the work head and got them all laid out for drilling and milling. I also laid out the pocket that gets milled in the sliding base.Since the shop is so cold, I high jacked the kitchen table and moved it to my bed room so I can work on the grinder in a warm environment. I can work here laying out and measuring, then go to the shop to do the cutting. I spent 5 hours today sorting through and editing prints. That is tedious work, takes a lot of time, but it has to be done. I erase half the crap on the prints that doesn't need to be there or That I don't need an add my own crap that I am changing. I am going to make a fixture tomorrow for my rotary table to mill the curved slots in the front plate.
Well boys and girls, I got quite a bit done today. The fact that I loctited the base unit together is kind of a milestone. The base is about 98% completed. Now we are working on the good stuff. :rubbinghands:
I was ready to Loc-tite the rear bar and base ends. I used Loc-tite bearing mount. It has a tensile strength of 4000 psi and is very permanent. It must be heated to 500 degrees to get apart and still won't be easy. They say it is as good as welding almost. I put the loc-tite on the bar ends and in the end plate holes, gave a quarter twist and set the assembly on my surface plate supporting the bars only. This aligns the bars perfectly parallel in the horizontal plane. They are aligned in the other directions by the precision bored holes that were bored with the ends bolted together. The holes have about .001" clearance. The loc-tite set in an hour to handle the part. It will completely cure in 24 hours. This stuff is amazing. After setting up, the base sets level on a flat surface and the micrometer bar "floats " smoothly, just like it should.)
This photo shows the adjustable bar and the support bar on the bottom side of the base. The support bar is a 3/8" square steel bar bolted to the bottom. The rear sliding body stop sets against this bar to keep the head from falling forward toward the operator. The plans have a fixed stop, but I want mine adjustable so I will be installing a mini version of the rocker arm to be able to adjust this position. That comes a little later.
This is a bottom view of the completed base unit with the adjustable bar, support bar and feet installed. I am using stainless steel button head socket screws for assembly. I think they look "pretty".
This is the end view of the assembled base. The shiny cap on the left holds the micrometer spring in place and the one on the right is just for looks to cover the end of the Loc-tited bar.
This photo shows the adjustment screws for the adjustable bar. The taller one threads into the bar to pull it upwards and the shorter one threads into the end bar to limit the travel. The two combined lock the end of the bar in position. Now, I just know,someone is going to ask me why this bar is adjustable. And " I DON"T REALLY KNOW", I have wondered the same thing for a long time and only a few days ago found what I believe is the answer. I found a document discussing the Bonelle grinder and it makes mention of the "adjustable bar". The rocker arm rides on this bar with an adjustable micrometer stop. the article says the bar is adjustable to grind some sort of angle on tools, but I am still looking for more info on that. I always assumed it was adjustable to be able to get it exactly parallel to the micrometer bar, which is important it is.
Another photo of the adjustable bar and the adjustment screws.
This photo is the complete base assembly with the bars and feet.
This is a photo of the complete base assembly with the sliding base (under construction) mounted to check for fit.
Now the fun stuff begins. MAKING THE WORK HEAD! I rough machined the sliding base unit several days ago. I cut some paper templates for the front and rear plates to check the fit before cutting any steel.
The paper fits so I laid out the steel and went to work with my band saw.
These are the plates rough cut and drilled . That tab on the bottom of the rear plate will be cut off. It is the mechanical limit stop for the work head movement toward the operator. I don't like it so I will be making an adjustable one. I already have it figured out.
I clamped the plates together prior to drilling the bolt holes and used a 3/8" drill to check the pivot hole alignment. It spins freely so I can drill the bolt holes in the plates.
I used my drill pres to drill the bolt holes.
The plates fit perfectly.
AND THE PIVOT HOLES ARE STILL IN ALIGNMENT! :bitingnails I was worried about this step)
The fellows over at the Quorn site seem to think it takes 600 hours to build this grinder. I don't know, maybe it does. I have 62 hours in it so far. I am keeping a build log for time and also creating a material list as I go. ( I'm sure someone is going to ask if there is one).
Well , We will see what tomorrow brings.
I was ready to Loc-tite the rear bar and base ends. I used Loc-tite bearing mount. It has a tensile strength of 4000 psi and is very permanent. It must be heated to 500 degrees to get apart and still won't be easy. They say it is as good as welding almost. I put the loc-tite on the bar ends and in the end plate holes, gave a quarter twist and set the assembly on my surface plate supporting the bars only. This aligns the bars perfectly parallel in the horizontal plane. They are aligned in the other directions by the precision bored holes that were bored with the ends bolted together. The holes have about .001" clearance. The loc-tite set in an hour to handle the part. It will completely cure in 24 hours. This stuff is amazing. After setting up, the base sets level on a flat surface and the micrometer bar "floats " smoothly, just like it should.) This photo shows the adjustable bar and the support bar on the bottom side of the base. The support bar is a 3/8" square steel bar bolted to the bottom. The rear sliding body stop sets against this bar to keep the head from falling forward toward the operator. The plans have a fixed stop, but I want mine adjustable so I will be installing a mini version of the rocker arm to be able to adjust this position. That comes a little later. This is a bottom view of the completed base unit with the adjustable bar, support bar and feet installed. I am using stainless steel button head socket screws for assembly. I think they look "pretty". This is the end view of the assembled base. The shiny cap on the left holds the micrometer spring in place and the one on the right is just for looks to cover the end of the Loc-tited bar. This photo shows the adjustment screws for the adjustable bar. The taller one threads into the bar to pull it upwards and the shorter one threads into the end bar to limit the travel. The two combined lock the end of the bar in position. Now, I just know,someone is going to ask me why this bar is adjustable. And " I DON"T REALLY KNOW", I have wondered the same thing for a long time and only a few days ago found what I believe is the answer. I found a document discussing the Bonelle grinder and it makes mention of the "adjustable bar". The rocker arm rides on this bar with an adjustable micrometer stop. the article says the bar is adjustable to grind some sort of angle on tools, but I am still looking for more info on that. I always assumed it was adjustable to be able to get it exactly parallel to the micrometer bar, which is important it is. Another photo of the adjustable bar and the adjustment screws. This photo is the complete base assembly with the bars and feet.This is a photo of the complete base assembly with the sliding base (under construction) mounted to check for fit. Now the fun stuff begins. MAKING THE WORK HEAD! I rough machined the sliding base unit several days ago. I cut some paper templates for the front and rear plates to check the fit before cutting any steel. The paper fits so I laid out the steel and went to work with my band saw. These are the plates rough cut and drilled . That tab on the bottom of the rear plate will be cut off. It is the mechanical limit stop for the work head movement toward the operator. I don't like it so I will be making an adjustable one. I already have it figured out. I clamped the plates together prior to drilling the bolt holes and used a 3/8" drill to check the pivot hole alignment. It spins freely so I can drill the bolt holes in the plates. I used my drill pres to drill the bolt holes. The plates fit perfectly. AND THE PIVOT HOLES ARE STILL IN ALIGNMENT! :bitingnails I was worried about this step)The fellows over at the Quorn site seem to think it takes 600 hours to build this grinder. I don't know, maybe it does. I have 62 hours in it so far. I am keeping a build log for time and also creating a material list as I go. ( I'm sure someone is going to ask if there is one).
Well , We will see what tomorrow brings.
Last edited by a moderator:
Oh, I know that. The hours log is mostly for me. I am interested in how long it actually takes to build. Some of the guys at the quorn site seem to think it is a life long project :roflmao::roflmao:
Got a little bit done today.
I milled the pocket in the side of the sliding base today. This provides clearance for the indicator arm. I free hand cut this pocket on a milling machine by turning both the x and y axis at the same time ( one hand on each wheel).
This is the indicator arm, made from 1/8" steel plate. It attaches to the tilting head and fits in the clearance pocket milled in the sliding base. It shows the tilt angle and locks the tilting head in place.
I also made the lock nut that fits the rear side of the rear plate and threads onto the pivot pin that supports and locks the tilting head in position.
This photo shows the nut in place. It is held in position on the rear plate by a 1/8" dowel pin that keeps it from rotating
I cut a piece of 2" x 2" steel bar to make the tilting head. put it in the 4 jaw chuck and turned the boss for the rotating base. It then needed a .500" hole in it to hold the rotating base shaft. I left the hole .002" undersized and will hone it to fit when I make the shaft.
The next item is the 90 degree seat at the top of the boss. This seat holds the rotating base to the tilting bracket. All this had to be done in one setup to keep all surfaces concentric. I used a rounded tool I had for cutting a radius. It left a nice smooth finish on the seat.
With the tilting bracket roughed out, I used my band saw to cut the excess material off and finished milled the side to size.
This is the roughed out tilting bracket. it still needs angles cut on the ends and several holes and two milled slots yet. Maybe tomorrow.
I milled the pocket in the side of the sliding base today. This provides clearance for the indicator arm. I free hand cut this pocket on a milling machine by turning both the x and y axis at the same time ( one hand on each wheel). This is the indicator arm, made from 1/8" steel plate. It attaches to the tilting head and fits in the clearance pocket milled in the sliding base. It shows the tilt angle and locks the tilting head in place. I also made the lock nut that fits the rear side of the rear plate and threads onto the pivot pin that supports and locks the tilting head in position. This photo shows the nut in place. It is held in position on the rear plate by a 1/8" dowel pin that keeps it from rotating I cut a piece of 2" x 2" steel bar to make the tilting head. put it in the 4 jaw chuck and turned the boss for the rotating base. It then needed a .500" hole in it to hold the rotating base shaft. I left the hole .002" undersized and will hone it to fit when I make the shaft. The next item is the 90 degree seat at the top of the boss. This seat holds the rotating base to the tilting bracket. All this had to be done in one setup to keep all surfaces concentric. I used a rounded tool I had for cutting a radius. It left a nice smooth finish on the seat. With the tilting bracket roughed out, I used my band saw to cut the excess material off and finished milled the side to size. This is the roughed out tilting bracket. it still needs angles cut on the ends and several holes and two milled slots yet. Maybe tomorrow. Any you guys out there bearing experts. I was talking to motion industries about precision bearings for my spindle. I thought they had to have spacers and springs to preload them. The guy says the precision bearings are preloaded out of the package and only need a spacer between them. I thought he might be a little :nuts:. It would sure make construction easy. any of you know anything about this? I want to know for sure before I buy something, So I need to do more research on this :thinking: because if this was true, why do all these spindle prints show precision spacers and springs to load the bearings.
:noidea:
:noidea: