Tool and cutter grinder build

[Mark_f]

I had an American made Die Mark. It still gave me the fits. Extremely hard to start. As said somewhere else by Tony. The Dies we get are not true Dies, they are thread chasers. To start the Die I used a piece of round stock between it and the tail stock.

"Billy G"

To answer all the questions above. The import die looked the same on both sides so I could not tell which side was to start. I picked one and cut about three threads and it would not go any more. I turned it around and it worked much better. I can't see the difference but there must be one.

To start it straight (especially with that high tech die holder), I put the die against the shaft and backed it up with the flat side of my QCTP and used the carriage to put pressure on the die as I started it. Once it is started , it is going to follow that path, straight or crooked. The QCTP held it flat and started it straight. ( I have used this method before I made a die holder for the tail stock). I was really impressed with this cheap $10 die. It started easy and it made really good fitting threads and nice and sharp and clean. I was surprised, but it takes a lot to turn a die that large. The hardest part was keeping the part from turning in the chuck.

To set up the collet taper ( cut using the compound) I had a 17/32" hole in the end of the part as it was still set up from the turning. I put a 1/2" center in the collet with the point into the hole. This centered that end. The other end of the collet had a 1/2" dowel in it that was chucked in my live drill chuck for the tail stock. This centered that end. I set the compound for 10 degrees and used it to run an indicator along the side of the collet. when the indicator reads zero the length of the collet, the angle is set. Then I remove all the junk ... er I mean .... precision set up equipment and cut the taper with the compound. This was all done before the threading. I did the threading last so I couldn't knock anything out of whack. After all this thing has to be very concentric and spin true. I have everything within .0005"

I probably should have taken photos doing all this but never thought of it as I was tightly puckered, sweating, and concentrating on not screwing up a spindle I spent a lot of time on.

 

[Mark_f]

I brought home my $100 die filer today also. It is made by Oliver Instrument Co. , has a 2" stroke, a removable over arm, a 12" round table that tilts in both directions ( X and Y), the yoke is in a closed crank case with oil, and it runs smooth and nice. Just needs a little cleaning up. i don't know what they sell for but thought this was a good deal.

 

[Bill Gruby]

Yup, you stole it.

 

[Mark_f]

I love a good deal

I set it on the scale and it is just a shade under 100 lbs. ( it took all I had to get it up on the bench)

 

[Billh50]

Just a note about that drill sharpener. The prints for all the parts are in the January issue of The Home Shop Machinist. It took me about 2 weeks to locate a copy but I have it.

 

[sgisler]

Oops, wrong thread!

 

[rwm]

Mark- thanks for your reply. That makes sense.
I also think that is a great buy on the filer. Very nice looking machine. I'm glad it found a good home.
R

 

[Mark_f]

I completed the spindle today. I took a bunch of photos of the process and accidentally deleted them trying to transfer them from my phone. I only got one. I am bummed out about it , but it is what it is.
I described below ( hopefully easy to understand) what I did to finish the spindle. Hopefully the one photo I did get here fills in the gaps. Once the bearings fit the spindle, I threaded the end and cut a 1/8" key way to hold the pulley. you can see the key way on the right. I next put a blind .125" hole in the shaft behind the collet nut for a pin wrench ( spanner wrench to some of you ) to hold the shaft while tightening the collet. Next I put the bearings in the housing back towards back and installed the oil seals. I put the spindle in and as soon as I make the pulleys, It will be ready to run. The spindle pulley will have a short bushing turned on the back side to provide the oil seal surface. Tightening the nut that holds the pulley on captures the bearings and preloads them all at the same time. The manufacturer says the preload is built into the bearings and is set when the nut is tightened. I am using a lock nut to prevent it from coming loose.

This was the setup photo for finishing the spindle. I cut this down to .675" and then undercut the center .020" between the bearing journals. The first bearing sits on a journal covering 1/2" behind the left end, then the 3" undercut and then another 1/2" wide journal, and the remaining end was turned down to .500" and threaded 1/2-20 for 1 inch. I used a file to cut the bearing journals to size as I don't have any way to grind them. Once they are within .0005" of finish size, I polished them to a mirror finish and to size with 320, 400, then 600 grit paper.


The pulleys are next on the agenda.

 

[genec]

Got started on the spindle today. Had to wait till I was in the mood for this because it is the only piece of material I have that will make this housing. I can't afford to mess it up....BUT I DID ANYWAY!!!!! .... almost. I put it in the 4 jaw chuck, got it running true, drilled a 1" hole all the way through, bored it out to 1.125", all is good so far.

View attachment 97816 This is the hosing being bored out.

I bored the first bearing hole to within .010" of size, then came out and bored the end for the oil seal. Still good. I went back and snuck ( is that a word... or sneaked) up on the size cutting .002" at a time. The pucker factor is unreal at this point. I got close and polished with emery cloth.... the bearing is a stiff hand press in " whewwww!
View attachment 97817 First side is done. Now turn it around in the 4 jaw, get it running true and bore the second side. Bored to within .010" and came out and bored the end for the oil seal, good so far.... now back to sneaking up on the last bore .002" at a time. ..... Still needs .004" to come out ..... WHAT THE..... that looks like more than two thousandths. The bearing falls in the bore with a couple thousandths to spare!!!!!! ....... After I cooled down a little , I thought .... the bearing is 12 mm wide....I will bore deeper .250" and get it right, that will hold the bearing and just move it in .250" more. I bore a cut and check fit, bore and check fit, getting close bearing sticks in the end of the bore...... Oh rats... it seems to be stuck... I'll give it a little bump out to get it loose and .... OOPS!!! the angular contact bearing comes apart and the little balls are rolling all over the shop floor ..... after an hour of crawling and looking, I found all ten balls, washed everything up and put it back together and it seems fine.
View attachment 97818 If you look close , that is why this bore looks deeper. It is .250" deeper than the other end. I will put this on the pulley end. It should be ok.

View attachment 97819 Drilled an oil fill hole and fit a 1/8" pipe plug to it. and the housing is done. GOD...... I hope the spindle goes easier than this did.

It helps if you sweep the floor before you start a project like that so you can find your bearings but then hindsight so is 20/20

 

[Mark_f]

It helps if you sweep the floor before you start a project like that so you can find your bearings but then hindsight so is 20/20

I vacuum my floor and machines everyday with a shop vac, but it is a shop and they still are a little dirty. Murphy's law says the thing you are looking for rolled under something to a place you can't access.