The Voron kit build thread

22x24x12 is 46 pounds dimensional weight for UPS and Fedex, and 39 pounds for USPS, according to an online calculator at ShipBob.

They generally require rounding up on the dimensions, so that might cause the estimate to go up. I've had some UPS shipments go up because they measured them to be an inch larger in one or more dimensions.
 
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Mine showed up today..
 

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From what I've been reading, the StealthBurner head will fit the Clockwork 1 extruder setup from the Afterburner, which uses the original Afterburner carriage parts.

I'm going to go this route, so I can use the machined aluminum clockwork and carriage parts from the aluminum parts kit, and still have the cooling advantages of the Stealthburner.
 
I also see comments that CW1 can work with StealthBurner. I haven't tried it myself.

The new Tap nozzle probe system requires a new carriage (with vertical rail and optical switch) and CW1 is said to not be compatible - a CW2, LGX or Orbiter extruder and StealthBurner is required and mounts must be from the front. But if you use the inductive probe, Klicky or Euclid instead of Tap that should work.
 
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I also see comments that CW1 can work with StealthBurner. I haven't tried it myself.

The new Tap nozzle probe system requires a new carriage (with vertical rail and optical switch) and CW1 is said to not be compatible - a CW2, LGX or Orbiter extruder and StealthBurner is required and mounts must be from the front. But if you use the inductive probe, Klicky or Euclid instead of Tap that should work.

I plan to use the probe that came with the kit. I believe it is an inductive proximity sensor. Since I already have the parts, and can follow the manual for wiring and setup.

I've seen some reports on the interwebs of the nozzle tap sensors damaging the build plate coatings. Says they heat up before tapping, and since they tap the same spots every time, wear divots, resulting in some accuracy loss. Heard anything about this?
 
Yes. If you watch the announcement livestream for the Voron Tap the chief developer showed a steel flex plate with flat PEI sticker that he has used for testing. He said there are over a million taps on it and he showed the marks it left, which appear as circles where the meplat touches the plate at 150C nozzle temperature. He said you cannot feel them with a thumbnail and they do not affect probing accuracy, but they are visible on the surface of printed parts. A light sanding will erase them, and it takes awhile for them to develop. He said the textured plate PEI must be tougher because it does not happen there, he cannot find the spot after thousands of taps. So it is an issue, but a minor one. They are applying about 600g of force during the tap. Perhaps I will end up moving to a matte or textured plate if it turns out to be a practical issue. There is also some discussion about possibly moving the tapping locations around to spread out the effect. Time for tennis, catch you later.
 
I've had great luck with the inductive probe in the Prusa MK3. I have considered using one in the Voron as well, either the Panasonic, or the Omron or even a Prusa SuperPinda which I have spares of on hand. I have heard that some of the Omron probes melt, it's hard to tell but they are probably clones rather than the real deal. Perhaps the newer StealthBurner reduces this problem. They did some work with the airflow that might help here. But even if it is going to get melty that's a future problem, and one that doesn't happen to every printer.

Following the build plans with the supplied sensor also allows using the provided starting macros for Klipper which could be quite helpful.

So why consider the Voron Tap probe? It compensates for nozzle changes, and it compensates for print sheet changes. It avoids the time and complexity of docking and undocking a clicky probe, and the unreliability of switch based probes. The inductive probes are reliable, but they don't compensate for nozzle length or print sheet coating thickness. They won't work at all on glass or G10 print surfaces. The Prusa compensates for the sheet changes by having a separate Z calibration memory for each sheet that you set up. But every time a nozzle is changed you have to re-set all the Z calibrations for each sheet. The Revo is supposed to solve this by being manufactured to the same length, but some say that there is some variation even so. By using the nozzle as the probe there are many things solved. Many new printer designs are trying to do this with strain gauges or accelerometers or other techniques. The Voron Tap uses a small linear rail to allow motion, a magnetic system to hold it in place while printing, and an inexpensive but precise optical switch to register the motion. There is still a Z calibration needed to determine how far the nozzle moves toward the bed before the optical switch triggers, but this should not change with nozzle changes or print sheet changes. There may still be some tuning for print sheet texture as this shifts the detection point to the peaks of the texture rather than the average height of the sheet.

Well, today one of the two boxes of Voron parts was delivered. The other box was not on this truck. It is listed as about 60 miles away. I haven't unpacked this larger box to see what is missing, so what would 10 pounds be? I'm guessing the frame is in the missing box, as that is the only "choice" item - the color of the frame.

I see more Pi Zero 2 W's landed somewhere in the world today. Adafruit had some a few days ago, gone now. I wonder if some are going to land elsewhere in the US soon. The Pi Zero 2 W is sufficient for running Klipper or Octoprint. If you are set up to order from foreign sources you could possibly get one that way as well.

It seems to have quieted down since the other two kits arrived. Folks must be busy assembling... :)
 
Nope. Just unpacked this double corrugated box in a double corrugated box. Everything inside is also boxed and labelled in a mosaic of smaller boxes designed to fit. Reminds me of the Prusa kit packing. Not surprising, since LDO makes a lot of Prusa parts, and this is an LDO kit. Now my small workbench is covered in small boxes.

The missing box must be the panels.

Fun lies ahead.
 
Voron has a new forum for user support. This should be a bit more organized than the discord or reddit.


The frame is together, at least basically. It is not as square as I would like, assuming my marble end table is flat which I should verify. I wonder how square is good enough.. The frame pieces are nicely made, cut, anodized and threaded.

Ultimately the tramming of the linear rails determines the overall accuracy. But if the frame is too wonky it will be hard to tram.
 
I am glad to see an organized forum. Discord is such a mess.

I am hoping to start on my frame today. My printed parts will not be here until the end of next week. I am going to be making an aluminum bottom plate for underneath the heat bed, either in conjunction with the provided plastic panel or in lieu of the plastic.
I have a table in my shop that is 5ft x 4ft with a 1" thick Blanchard ground top on it, so that should be flat. :grin:
 
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