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The Voron kit build thread
- Thread starter Ken226
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
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- 1,248
The kit I ordered from Voronkits.com comes with a V6 hotend. I don't know a what brand, or anything about it.
But, the Voron resources site has .STL models for a Stealthburner toolhead setup that takes the V6 hotend.
There seems to be a lot of v6 hotends, parts and upgrades available on Amazon and eBay, so as common as it is, Im going to use it.
If everything works to plan, I'll use the stealthburner toolhead with the V6 hotend from the kit, and the proximity sensor that comes with the kit for levelling.
These are the toolhead stl's for the stealthburner:
Voron-Stealthburner/STLs/Stealthburner at main · VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner
Contribute to VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
These are the parts specific to the v6 hotend.
Voron-Stealthburner/STLs/Stealthburner/Printheads/revo_six_and_v6 at main · VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner
Contribute to VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
The CW2 rear half is supposed to be the newer, better design.
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The E3D V6 is what the Prusa MK3 comes with. Very popular, many low cost parts available for it. Good solid choice to start with. Not the easiest to work with, the nozzle needs to be hot torqued and loosened, and the heat break tube that supports the heater block is thin and fragile so care is required when working with it and the unprotected heater and thermistor wiring to the heater block is easy to damage. The quality of the knockoff parts varies.
I'm planning to use a Voron Revo hotend in the Trident. Revo nozzles are more expensive and only available from E3D, but they can be changed at room temperature without tools and precise torque is not required. Hardened and high flow nozzles for Revo are not out yet but should be soon. Hardened nozzles are overdue on pre-order but there is apparently a new delay. There are versions of the Revo for V6 mounts, but the Voron version has a mount that doesn't rotate. Rotation is undesirable when changing nozzles. The Revo has protected wiring and heats and cools much faster than the V6.
Voron generally recommends starting with the BOM parts and getting that working before making changes, especially for a new user.
The LDO kit comes with a few changes so I will probably use most of those. Depending on timing I might use the supplied Klicky Z probe or move directly to the Voron Tap. They say the Voron Tap is an advanced project so it might not be the best way to start, but if the timing is right I may try it. The BOM for Voron Tap is due to release very soon, as is the LDO kit, so it may work out. I don't plan to rush the build.
I'm planning to use a Voron Revo hotend in the Trident. Revo nozzles are more expensive and only available from E3D, but they can be changed at room temperature without tools and precise torque is not required. Hardened and high flow nozzles for Revo are not out yet but should be soon. Hardened nozzles are overdue on pre-order but there is apparently a new delay. There are versions of the Revo for V6 mounts, but the Voron version has a mount that doesn't rotate. Rotation is undesirable when changing nozzles. The Revo has protected wiring and heats and cools much faster than the V6.
Voron generally recommends starting with the BOM parts and getting that working before making changes, especially for a new user.
The LDO kit comes with a few changes so I will probably use most of those. Depending on timing I might use the supplied Klicky Z probe or move directly to the Voron Tap. They say the Voron Tap is an advanced project so it might not be the best way to start, but if the timing is right I may try it. The BOM for Voron Tap is due to release very soon, as is the LDO kit, so it may work out. I don't plan to rush the build.
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- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 1,248
Just in case you guys didn't already know this, I shot a quick little video.
That ugly white residue (stress discoloration) on 3d printed parts from scraping them off of the print bed. It shows up on PLA and particularly, on ABS parts, is super easy to erase.
No expensive heat gun needed. I've been doing this alot lately
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That ugly white residue (stress discoloration) on 3d printed parts from scraping them off of the print bed. It shows up on PLA and particularly, on ABS parts, is super easy to erase.
No expensive heat gun needed. I've been doing this alot lately
:
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 1,248
I'm using a PEI coated spring steel flex plate. I dont get them much with PLA, but definitely do with ABS printed on a raft. It comes from the stress of seperating the part from the raft. I could probably cure it by adjusting the air gap between the raft and the part. I've been printing non stop, day and night for a week now and havn't stopped long enough to play with any settings.
This Voron Kit needs ALOT of printed parts. I think 7Milesup made the right call with buying the parts!
The PEI plate is too smooth for my liking, for printing directly on the plate. I prefer the coarser, kind, ballistic nylon looking texture that comes from printing on a raft, so I just use the little butane torch to erase the white.
I have some of the OEM Flashforge decal type liners, which have a nice texture, but they don't last long with ABS, and at 6$ each I find myself not wanting to use them.
I need to get a PEI coated steel, textured, build plate. I love the look of parts printed directly on those.
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Interesting. I have seen the stress mark trick before. I haven't used rafts much. I have various steel sheets with flat, matte and textured finish but most often I use the flat. The textured plate does leave a nice finish but PLA doesn't stick well to it and getting the right initial Z height is harder on the texture. The Matte plate is probably better but I have such good luck with flat plate and Aquanet I just use it.
Aquanet extends the life of the PEI sticker to a crazy extent. I'm still using the original smooth plate that came with the MK3, and I got a fairly early one. I have a pile of new spare plates of various textures that have basically never been used, aside from a few tests on a textured plate. If I clean the old smooth PEI and use it bare there are adhesion problems, and I have to sand it periodically to get even marginal adhesion. With a light mist of Aquanet it adheres and releases easily with PLA, PETG and TPU. I suspect the Aquanet is renewing the surface of the PEI.
The wife doesn't want me printing ABS in the house, so I haven't done that with the MK3 in my office. Another reason to buy PIF parts. I suspect the garage is going to be a problem as well because odors from there often seep into the house. Perhaps it will be good enough, or the Voron filtering will help enough. Or I will have to set up an exhaust that blows outside.
For the noncritical Voron parts I may just use PLA or PETG. I will undoubtedly need to print a few things with ABS to get it running. Or print them in PETG and reprint after it is up and running. I could haul the MK3 to the garage and put the temporary enclosure on it, but it is cold enough now I don't know that it would get near 50C. The ABS parts I will need should be fairly small.
I don't know if the Voron kit shipping weight is accurate. It says over 50 pounds for the Trident. Seems on the high side. Shipping is probably driven by the volume equivalent weight so they may not bother to get accurate weights.
Aquanet extends the life of the PEI sticker to a crazy extent. I'm still using the original smooth plate that came with the MK3, and I got a fairly early one. I have a pile of new spare plates of various textures that have basically never been used, aside from a few tests on a textured plate. If I clean the old smooth PEI and use it bare there are adhesion problems, and I have to sand it periodically to get even marginal adhesion. With a light mist of Aquanet it adheres and releases easily with PLA, PETG and TPU. I suspect the Aquanet is renewing the surface of the PEI.
The wife doesn't want me printing ABS in the house, so I haven't done that with the MK3 in my office. Another reason to buy PIF parts. I suspect the garage is going to be a problem as well because odors from there often seep into the house. Perhaps it will be good enough, or the Voron filtering will help enough. Or I will have to set up an exhaust that blows outside.
For the noncritical Voron parts I may just use PLA or PETG. I will undoubtedly need to print a few things with ABS to get it running. Or print them in PETG and reprint after it is up and running. I could haul the MK3 to the garage and put the temporary enclosure on it, but it is cold enough now I don't know that it would get near 50C. The ABS parts I will need should be fairly small.
I don't know if the Voron kit shipping weight is accurate. It says over 50 pounds for the Trident. Seems on the high side. Shipping is probably driven by the volume equivalent weight so they may not bother to get accurate weights.
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UPS, Fedex, USPS, etc have a volumetric weight factor that kicks in if a package is too light, so either weight or volume determines the shipping cost, whichever yields the highest shipping cost. This package is not quite into the freight class, I hope.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2016
- Messages
- 3,379
No, it certainly is not. I just looked at my shipment, and the kit is listed at 49lbs. Mine will be here tomorrow. My printed parts might be here by the end of next week. The power supply for my Orange Pi (why I didn't order that with the Orange Pi is beyond me) will be here Friday. The bits and bobs are coming together.
I have the Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum coming, but I think that I am going to change direction with the hot end. Initially, I will get it up and running with the standard E3D, but I am seriously considering going to the Phaetus. Rapido.
Side note... For FedEx, the maximum volumetric dimension is 130, which is girth+length. Beyond that and it goes to LTL.
I have the Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum coming, but I think that I am going to change direction with the hot end. Initially, I will get it up and running with the standard E3D, but I am seriously considering going to the Phaetus. Rapido.
Side note... For FedEx, the maximum volumetric dimension is 130, which is girth+length. Beyond that and it goes to LTL.