The new to me Seneca Falls lathe

BCNU6OF1 said:
Thanks! I was hoping to leave the blocks on, but since I haven't seen any with them I started wondering if there was some inherent flaw and everyone removed them. Like they cause harmonics, or have a tendency to loosen.
Right now, I just want to run some collar tests and dial it in. I know South Bend said about 6-7" for a chuck size on their machines this size, is that accurate for these?
Thanks for the switch - I was mainly wondering brand names people like, if there was one.
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The original chuck that came with the machine was a Union 6" 3 jaw chuck. Since then I have purchased several 3 and 4 jaw chucks. The largest is an 8" 4 jaw made by the LW chuck Co. I also made a 5C collet chuck from Andrew Lofquist. It's a copy of one made by Pat Loop.

I've attached a copy of the original article outlining the build by Pat Loop. In my case I had to modify the backplate mounting to fit the 1 7/16-12 thread on my spindle.

As for doing a 2 collar test the length of rod extending beyond the chuck shouldn't exceed 4 times it's diameter when unsupported. Be sure to use a sharp tool to avoid deflection when turning. The radius of the cutting tip should be at least 1 1/2 times the distance the tool moves per turn. I.E., if the tool is advanced .004" for each revolution of the spindle the minimum radius of the cutting edge should be .006".
 

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The Furnas brand switches are the old standby- but they cost a bit nowadays and there are two styles.
A picture of your motor's terminals would help decide before buying one.

Most capacitor start and split phase motors need to come to a stop before reversing.
 
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BCNU6OF1 said:
That's awesome - I was an automotive machinist for several years. I still do some for my own fun and for some friends- this is my first non job specific machine (I.e. valve facer, surfacer, seat and guide machine.). Currently building a 69 Road Runner. I got the lathe for odds and ends, and having a bit of fun with history.
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Does the Roadrunner have the 440 ? Six pack and 4 speed. Rocket ship on wheels
 
projectnut said:
The original chuck that came with the machine was a Union 6" 3 jaw chuck. Since then I have purchased several 3 and 4 jaw chucks. The largest is an 8" 4 jaw made by the LW chuck Co. I also made a 5C collet chuck from Andrew Lofquist. It's a copy of one made by Pat Loop.

I've attached a copy of the original article outlining the build by Pat Loop. In my case I had to modify the backplate mounting to fit the 1 7/16-12 thread on my spindle.

As for doing a 2 collar test the length of rod extending beyond the chuck shouldn't exceed 4 times it's diameter when unsupported. Be sure to use a sharp tool to avoid deflection when turning. The radius of the cutting tip should be at least 1 1/2 times the distance the tool moves per turn. I.E., if the tool is advanced .004" for each revolution of the spindle the minimum radius of the cutting edge should be .006".
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You totally rock! Thanks! And I didn't know the radius rule, that will be useful. The collet chuck will be a definite project, thank you!
@Martin W it was a 383 4 spd car, but the original engine was long gone, I had a 30k mile date correct 440, and a kid was selling a "tri-power Chrysler boat intake and carbs". I'll post build shots eventually in the proper forum... unfortunately, there's a 92 Vette in my shop that needs a home that isn't here, lol.
 
markba633csi said:
The Furnas brand switches are the old standby- but they cost a bit nowadays and there are two styles.
A picture of your motor's terminals would help decide before buying one.

Most capacitor start and split phase motors need to come to a stop before reversing.
Click to expand...
That's the plate. I currently just wired it 115 to test it. It's so smooth. I'll have to take the insulator off to get at the "red and yellow" wires, as they were not apparent when I ran juice to it.
 

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OK, you would want the 3-phase or "chopstick" style switch: Several brands available. Dayton is probably the cheapest at around 100$ I can show you how to connect it.
If you are on a tight budget there are less expensive import alternatives, might last 8-10 years- less than 20$ See below

Drumstyles1.jpeg
 
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@markba633csi Thanks! I'll probably go with a Dayton, for right now I'm going to stick with 115v to the motor (my shop has fuses, not circuit breakers, and until I get around to changing that, there's only one 220 plug...on the wrong side of the shop of course) Actually, right now I just have it on a surge strip while I decide what type of on/off switch to go with
Well, I didn't get a chance to do a test collar, but I did get a chance to fling chips I'm happy, I didn't get a chance to adjust much, but maybe later this week.
Currently preparing for the Virginia Renaissance Faire (I have a booth there for my art) and fixing some vehicle stuff around here.
 
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