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SMAW/Stick machines - options?
- Thread starter FlyFishn
- Start date
Well if thats the case I'm one sick rat bastard. Whoops. Did I just say that? Nevermind.
As to the heavy machine in storage - yea. I hear ya. One of these days I want to have a lot of space also. It just isn't in the cards for a while. That doesn't detract from having projects come up to keep me busy. I have one thats been collecting dust for 4 years. At the time the project materialized i didn't have access to a heavy enough welding machine. An acquaintance that I knew at the time was in to auto repair and fab stuff and I tried to get his help with the project but his idea of "help" was to take an existing part and modify it instead of build one from the ground up. That wasn't going to work. Life continued to get in the way and things that had been lined up for the project just collected dust. I am trying to change that. And to do it I need a stick machine. However, when I have welded in the past there is usually a scenario that comes up where I need a heavier machine than what I've been using - I just use what I have as hot as it goes and make do. Some things I am OK with that on, other things - I might tack the parts with it to set things up then get over to somewhere that has better equipment.
One can never have too many tools and machines.
Moving day. Later tonight, but I'll be out all day before.
Lets just say I am glad I worked on logistics YESTERDAY. While I was out picking up the truck I stopped by my storage place and got my tailgate ramps. I haven't used them in years, and quite frankly they are hard to use. I prefer hanging stuff of a hoist than rolling in and out (unless its something like a lawnmower or ATV).
When you put the ramps close together and roll up one of the edges of the ramp they tend not to be stable.
I didn't even get to setting up the joist to test the alignment of "things" (rope, tailgate, cap window, machine positioning, etc, etc) because I only have 42" to the bottom of the window frame. There isn't enough space to get the welder on to the tailgate without interference with the tipped out window. I don't want to risk blowing out that window again (already been there, done that - and the window isn't replaceable - you have to buy the window and frame assembly as a complete unit).
So what I came up with was putting wood blocks between the 2 ramps and using some aluminum mast pipe sections on the under side. On top I use ratchet straps to cinch down over the top with the pipes underneath. This does 2 things - it locks the plane of the ramps to the plane of the pipes, and 2. it keeps the ramps butted up tight against the wood blocks. The down side is the ratchet straps are on the ramp surface and may get damaged when the machine rolls over them - especially if the strap is between the cut out tread patterns and the wheels (grip patterns = sharp metal edges).
Pulling power is from my trusty Superwinch Terra 45SR in the bed. It won't break a sweat. When I pull 99% of loads I use a 2:1 block/tackle set up - more so for precision and slower speed - even though the single line pull is heavy. Under some pulls it decreases the current draw also and that can be quite handy.
If I get in to the pull and there are problems with it then I can back out of it and go back to the hoist set up. The way this would work is I would block the bottom of the ramps to bring them up. This would bring the top of the ramp curve to a flatter "deck", if you will, with respect to the plane of the bed and tailgate. The machine would be lifted and left to hang from the hoist, then I would back the truck up to it as far as I could, then set up the ramp platform underneath, then lower on to the platform, and roll in to the truck. That will work - and quite frankly I think that is the safest/most stable solution (the ramps are best with self-propelled things, not winched things) but the time and effort involved in setting up the hoist is done it will be quite a long time. I left the ramps strapped together in the bed so all I have to do is drop them, put the winch in place, and get power to the winch. The hoist requires moving and setting up 2 ladders, a lot of ratchet straps, and all the blocks for raising the ramps in addition to the ramps in the configuration they are already in. Big difference. But we have options.
If plan A doesn't work, go to plan B. If that doesn't work... rethink things on-site and come up with a plan C.
What I need is a trailer. But what I don't have is a place to store it. One of these days.
Lets just say I am glad I worked on logistics YESTERDAY. While I was out picking up the truck I stopped by my storage place and got my tailgate ramps. I haven't used them in years, and quite frankly they are hard to use. I prefer hanging stuff of a hoist than rolling in and out (unless its something like a lawnmower or ATV).
When you put the ramps close together and roll up one of the edges of the ramp they tend not to be stable.
I didn't even get to setting up the joist to test the alignment of "things" (rope, tailgate, cap window, machine positioning, etc, etc) because I only have 42" to the bottom of the window frame. There isn't enough space to get the welder on to the tailgate without interference with the tipped out window. I don't want to risk blowing out that window again (already been there, done that - and the window isn't replaceable - you have to buy the window and frame assembly as a complete unit).
So what I came up with was putting wood blocks between the 2 ramps and using some aluminum mast pipe sections on the under side. On top I use ratchet straps to cinch down over the top with the pipes underneath. This does 2 things - it locks the plane of the ramps to the plane of the pipes, and 2. it keeps the ramps butted up tight against the wood blocks. The down side is the ratchet straps are on the ramp surface and may get damaged when the machine rolls over them - especially if the strap is between the cut out tread patterns and the wheels (grip patterns = sharp metal edges).
Pulling power is from my trusty Superwinch Terra 45SR in the bed. It won't break a sweat. When I pull 99% of loads I use a 2:1 block/tackle set up - more so for precision and slower speed - even though the single line pull is heavy. Under some pulls it decreases the current draw also and that can be quite handy.
If I get in to the pull and there are problems with it then I can back out of it and go back to the hoist set up. The way this would work is I would block the bottom of the ramps to bring them up. This would bring the top of the ramp curve to a flatter "deck", if you will, with respect to the plane of the bed and tailgate. The machine would be lifted and left to hang from the hoist, then I would back the truck up to it as far as I could, then set up the ramp platform underneath, then lower on to the platform, and roll in to the truck. That will work - and quite frankly I think that is the safest/most stable solution (the ramps are best with self-propelled things, not winched things) but the time and effort involved in setting up the hoist is done it will be quite a long time. I left the ramps strapped together in the bed so all I have to do is drop them, put the winch in place, and get power to the winch. The hoist requires moving and setting up 2 ladders, a lot of ratchet straps, and all the blocks for raising the ramps in addition to the ramps in the configuration they are already in. Big difference. But we have options.
If plan A doesn't work, go to plan B. If that doesn't work... rethink things on-site and come up with a plan C.
What I need is a trailer. But what I don't have is a place to store it. One of these days.
Yep....we’re similar there. I’ve got two homemade ramps that I use to load stuff in my little 93 Nissan truck. Bigger stuff near my storage usually gets loaded with a forklift at a business down the street. Unloaded with a 2-1/2 ton chain winch. but most lighter items get rolled up and down the ramps. I’ve got the truck set up with a hand-crank boat winch. It works so I can usually work by myself but it is slow going. Ramps are now heavy as hell. Started as treated 2 x 6’s but have now been beefed up with 1/4” angle iron. Anyway....reading your post. It’s like I could have written it describing my situation.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2013
- Messages
- 1,295
I converted a transformer welder to foot current control. I just phase controlled the input. Worked really well!
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
I started another thread over on WeldingWeb with a lot more pictures. As stated in the thread - I am going to give it a once-over with the electrical side and ensure it is in OK shape before I plug it in. Once I open it up it only makes sense to clean it up also. Later on I might restore it at least with a new paint job.
I didn't get the machine to restore it and have it as a collectors item. It is intended to be a heavier welding machine for the time being and a back-up welder once I can upgrade equipment/processes here.
I didn't get the machine to restore it and have it as a collectors item. It is intended to be a heavier welding machine for the time being and a back-up welder once I can upgrade equipment/processes here.
1966 Round Top Idealarc 250
I decided to make another thread specific to my welder progress. After some researching on stick welders I decided it was a very smart idea to have an old-school transformer-based machine, at the very least as a back-up machine. My last project requiring heavier welds than what I could do...
weldingweb.com
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2014
- Messages
- 444
At $100 you made a killer deal on the Lincoln 250 IdealArc (presuming it works - and these machines are almost bulletproof).
I think I paid $300+ for mine 15 years ago in only slightly better cosmetic condition.
Excellent stick welder, I'm sure you will be very happy with it. The only quirk is that you turn the dial clockwise to reduce the arc current setting. Takes a bit of getting used to but no biggie.
Good buy !
Stu
I think I paid $300+ for mine 15 years ago in only slightly better cosmetic condition.
Excellent stick welder, I'm sure you will be very happy with it. The only quirk is that you turn the dial clockwise to reduce the arc current setting. Takes a bit of getting used to but no biggie.
Good buy !
Stu
@gr8legs Stu - thanks for the comments. I am looking at the wiring here and I think I wired my plug wrong. Its a NMEA 10-50. One of the pins on the connector is labeled "White" which would be neutral. The schematic of the machine shows 2 hots and "ground". Although neutral and ground are bonded together in the service entrance panel, what is the technically correct wiring for the plug for the welder? Ground?
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2014
- Messages
- 444
The NEMA 10-50 is an 'old style' dryer or range plug for appliances that use the neutral (white) for chassis ground - your welder uses 220 single phase that the 'hot' leads go to the two angled connections. It's probably fine as it is with neutral to chassis ground. If you are doing a complete restoration and upgrade you'd want a plug/receptacle that are 220 Volt 50 Amp single phase with ground.
There's also the option of retrofitting a code-compliant 4-wire cable and connector with two hots (black and red) , a neutral (white) and a green ground but I don't think the welder needs the neutral at all. If that is the case then a NEMA 6-50 would work. Check the chart at https://www.stayonline.com/product-resources/nema-straight-blade-reference-chart.asp and find what is affordable and readily available and is at least 220 volt 50 Amp rated. I would just stay with the NEMA 10-50 which is rated for 220 V 50 A using the neutral as chassis ground. Dirt cheap and readily available.
To use what you have (or verify it is correct) see https://www.ehow.com/how_7718190_wire-nema-1050r.html
Enjoy!
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