Saving a Logan 825

[eeler1]

Red paint looks funky on a lathe. Unless it’s a late model Emco from Austria.

 

[wa5cab]

The spindle head bearing is and apparently always has been a special order by Logan to their bearing manufacturer. My understanding is that it is first a double-row of balls (two ball bearings in one) and second, there is a specified pre-load between the two rows of balls. If there were enough room, you might be able to simulate that with two bearings and a selected shim between either the inner or outer races. But as I have never seen anyone mention having done that, I assume that there must not be enough axial space available to do it with anything off the shelf.

 

[Nogoingback]

This is an original bearing out of a Model 200, which I believe is the same as the OP's machine. The snap ring locates the bearing
under the plate on the chuck-end of the headstock. I doubt that two bearings would fit inside the headstock, and can't imagine
how a person could ensure that the preload on such a setup was correct. (Assuming the bearings were designed for that.). Even
though the Logan bearing is a bit expensive, in the long run I think it's better to just bite the bullet and get one rather than trying
to duplicate this arrangement.

There are folks that have succeeded in cleaning out dirty bearings and re-greasing them. If the OP tears down his head stock,
that's an option assuming the bearing itself is in good condition.

 

[bhusted]

Thanks for the information on the bearings. I'm unsure if I should break down the headstock or not. I'm worried that I'll do more damage than good to the bearings by trying to take it apart. Rolling the spindle by hand feels smooth, but it's hard to asses the condition of the bearings without them being under load at some speed. This is one of the reasons I wanted to power it up. Maybe I should shift to working on that problem.

As for parts that I've found that need to be replaced or repaired:

• The halfnuts are missing, but I've already found and purchased a set in good condition for a good price.
• I will remake one or both of the clamps for the headstock
• The carriage lock is missing, but is non-critical and something I can make or buy
• The tailstock quill locking lever (binding lever) and stud are missing, but I think I can make or adapt something to work
• One of the back gears is missing a tooth, but all other teeth are in good condition. If I get everything else going, I'll probably just try to braze this up and file the tooth form.

I think that all of the other parts are there and serviceable. The bed and bearings are probably the biggest unknowns.

I did hear back from Scott Logan and he confirmed that my spindle should be a #3MT and thinks that someone modified it for some reason.

 

[Nogoingback]

If you haven't looked already, there are lots of parts for 10" Logans on ebay.

 

[bhusted]

Thanks. I did some looking there and found someone selling a spindle that is a good replacement for mine. The threads in the nose are good and the tapered bore is intact. My plan is to breakdown the spindle, clean and grease the bearings and re-assemble with the new spindle. I plan to power it briefly by connecting it to another motor that I have with a pulley I think I've made the decision to keep this thing.

So far the total investment is:

• $25 for the lathe
• $70 for replacement halfnuts
• $60 for replacement spindle

I'll keep you posted.

 

[eeler1]

For what you paid for the lathe, you can spend a few bucks on parts

 

[bhusted]

That was my thought as well. Though I don't want to go wild, I want it to be a well running machine when complete.

 

[bhusted]

I decided to take a break from sitting at the computer working from home and go down to the garage to clean up some more lathe parts.

I was able to get the QCGB off and inspect it today. I knew it wasn't locked up, but I wanted to take a look at all of the gear teeth and assess the condition. Other than being covered in this disgusting paint and schmoo, it seems like everything is in good shape. I do have a couple of questions though.

1. Does anyone have a technique for removing the brass plate on the front? I saw one recommendation for using a dremel to grind a slot in the pins and remove them like a screw. I tried that with 2 of them and had no success. The plate is not in the best condition, but I don't want to damage it any further.
2. There is an angle bracket coming off the side of the gearbox underneath the leadscrew with 2 set screws in it. I don't see anything on the parts diagram that looks like it. You can see it in the second picture.
3. Are the sprung handles held on with tapered pins? I don't want to just go hammering on them. I'd like to get them apart to clean up the knurled portion that you move and they are a little stiff.
4. I'm looking for replacements for the oilers and not having a lot of luck. I need to replace the one in the tailstock as well as a couple on the QCGB. I've found a lot of 6mm ones and some that are plated steel, but I'd like to use brass like the originals. Does anyone have a source for 1/4" brass oilers?

 

[wa5cab]

1. If you are lucky, the drive screws that attach the settings plate were drilled through. If you can find the holes on the inside of the GB case, use the correct diameter pin punch to drift the screws out.