Router bits to cut Aluminum.

Wow Jim,it pays to be a woodworker first and then a hobby machinist, I guess the reason I was a bit hesitant at first was the the difference in RPM between a mini mill(2500 rpm) and a router(12000 to 30000),I thought router bits were not designed to spin at such low RPM as mini mill but obviously I was overthinking it.
 
Wow Jim,it pays to be a woodworker first and then a hobby machinist, I guess the reason I was a bit hesitant at first was the the difference in RPM between a mini mill(2500 rpm) and a router(12000 to 30000),I thought router bits were not designed to spin at such low RPM as mini mill but obviously I was overthinking it.

Router bits are just another cutting tool, the geometry is a bit different than metal cutting bits, but not so different that they don't work well. When cutting metal, you just observe the same feeds and speeds that you would with an end mill of the same size. Where possible, I do use 1/2 inch shank bits.

Here is a short video of a 3/8 solid carbide end mill in a router running at about 8,000 RPM, pocketing 1/2 inch holes in aluminum angle. This is from a customer of mine. I recently installed the air vices and did some repair work to the machine for him. This shows the cutters are almost interchangeable.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5lqf1wcttx7sz1/Drilling Aluminum Angles on our new CNC Router 2-2-17.m4v?dl=0
 
Last edited:
Interesting video, it makes sense to use an end mill in a router than a woodworking carbide spiral bit in a milling machine but I now believe both are possible. thanks.
 
I use them on aluminium with no problems.
I also use the curve on some of the bits as a form tool to round the ends of stainless and mild steel rod.
 
A little different slant on this, I've used a router with a carbide burr to gasket match exhaust ports in a cylinder head, leaves a beautiful finish.
 
In my experience the cheaper router bits are usually not so much cheaper carbide necessarily (but certainly that's possible) so much as not as well sharpened.

I have mostly Yonico bits from eBay and Amazon. I really like them. But for a few bits that I use on products that I sell I use Bosch, Amana, and Freud bits, purchased from my local sharpening service for $40-50 each. When I need any of them sharpened it costs like $8. I feel like I'm stealing from them. CNC sharpening machines that surely cost them six figures and I'm paying in singles. (And an ATAB 100 tooth crosscut miter saw blade is like $18.) Everyone should get to know their local sharpening service. If you don't have one just use mine: http://www.accarbide.com. Only woodworking and guillotine tools, though. No end mills or any of that.
 
Last edited:
I use them on aluminium with no problems.
I also use the curve on some of the bits as a form tool to round the ends of stainless and mild steel rod.

Savarin
You aren't even talking about using router blades on a (real) mill, but using your lathe as a mill, correct? If so, then how
many RPM's do you turn your chuck at?

CHuck of the other kind i.e. Grumpy
 
Back
Top