Yes! Incredibly frustrating when you can't figure it out.
I was just going to quickly reassemble the shaft, but I should've known better.
After pressing on the last bearing, I tried to give it a spin ... It felt like the balls were hexagon shaped..
I spent probably 75 minutes trying to get the bearing off, getting angrier and taking worse and worse decisions before finally giving up.
As you can see I did damage the shaft a bit in my frustration, sad but it happens.
Coming back a few days later with a calmer head I broke the ballcages inside the bearing, moved all balls to one side and took the outer ring off.
This let me get some good measurements on the inner race.
Again, I was going to "quickly" mount the 4 jaw on the lathe to make a bearing puller. Brand new asian chuck, apparently the factory hadn't even properly tapped the treads in it so I had to start with modifying brand new parts.
I guess you get what you pay for, but still.
Starting off with a piece of scrap, regular hotrolled.
Gave it a facing pass and drilled a large hole before I started boring out to final size, leaving a small flange that would grip tightly onto the bearings inner race.
Before I cut them apart I drilled all the way through so I could thread it for M8, after cutting it apart I then drilled out one half to 8.5mm.
Two M8 bolts then clamp this onto the bearing race.
After spending like 3 hours on trying to get this bearing off, the success felt really good...
Again, everything is easier if you're calm and methodical about it, still trying to teach myself this...
With a new bearing pushed on, a bit more gently this time, it was time to assemble the rest.
Explanation of the bearings .. The two big bearings on the left mount against the big hinge casting so the entire shaft can spin.
The thinner bearing and the smallest bearing lets the steel socket rotate around the shaft itself.
Between the thin and small bearing you have a wider roller bearing which is mounted on the non-concentric part of the shaft.
The non-concentric part and it's roller bearing aligns with the hole in the steel socket, the piston will later connect here.
The piston is threaded into the steel socket but also has another shaft inside it, which goes against the non concentric part and somehow pumps up pressure to lower the saw arm.
On topic of being calm, I was about to have a seizure just getting this shaft back in....
No idea how it's supposed to be done, maybe taking the entire hinge casting off and using a press?
I spent 45 minutes with a rubber mallet, drenched in sweat by the time it was in.
Each hit, with all my strength, would move it a few thou..
There's no real access from anywhere else either.
With the big gear in place, it was time for the small driveshaft.
It's just a long shaft, gear on one end and a slot for belt pulley on the other end.
This one slid into place real pretty easy.
The shiny shaft extending on the left is the place for the belt pulley.
Inside the hinge casting, you can see the previously mentioned steel socket with the thread for the piston that will later lower the saw arm.
Just an overview photo. Next piece to go on would be the saw arm itself and the endpiece.
But before I mount those big and heavy pieces I want to install both the hydraulic piston and a second piston that I think only consists of a very large spring.
Having these to help the hinge stay up will greatly help with remounting the saw arm.
Hopefully I'm not posting too many pictures, I just find that they tell so much more than my words.
