Reliable Tapping Wrench

[EmilioG]

All of my tap wrenches are Starrett. A few are new and the rest vintage in great condition. I've read about people complaining about the quality of new Starrett tap wrenches. I have not seen any problems myself. They seem like good solid tap wrenches. The Starretts don't open up while tapping. I also use a Brown &Sharpe tap guide and have never broken a tap. , not yet anyway. I haven't tapped hundreds of holes and never a tap smaller than 6-32. I've seen some machinists drill a shallow counter bore to start a hand tap. Helps to keep the tap started straight., which is crucial. I usually tap under power and right after the hole is drilled on a mill. Takes 30 seconds longer, but that's fine.

 

[T Bredehoft]

Subsequent to my writing Post No. 2 above, I have fabricated a crank handle for the spindle of my lathe. I can now drill a hole, take that chuck (and its drill) out of the tail stock, insert a chuck with a tap in it, advance the tap to the work and, turning the crank, advance the tap into the hole and by reversing the crank back it out again. I try to use spiral flute taps that run the chip out of the hole as they feed in.

 

[Bob Korves]

Subsequent to my writing Post No. 2 above, I have fabricated a crank handle for the spindle of my lathe. I can now drill a hole, take that chuck (and its drill) out of the tail stock, insert a chuck with a tap in it, advance the tap to the work and, turning the crank, advance the tap into the hole and by reversing the crank back it out again. I try to use spiral flute taps that run the chip out of the hole as they feed in.

I prefer to use a tap in a tap wrench in line with a spring center mounted in the tail stock instead of turning the chuck and/or spindle. There is not enough feel when turning heavy members.

Like this, but turning the tap wrench by hand instead of using the compound for power tapping. I want to feel when the tap jams, not just watch it break.