0.5mm tap External threading - carburator needles

Sounds like they didn't quite fit, the root of this taper (towards the threads) ends up larger on my parts since they are extending the taper, however the ID of the opening on the carb body does reduce past the taper. I will be trying to hold these needles to turn that section straight (once the taper diameter gets larger than the max diameter of the other needle, I will turn it down to a straight diameter).

If I can't hold these well enough with my fixture, then I'll just make new ones.

I am not sure the set screw with protective paper will be able to prevent the part from spinning in the aluminum, or whether it'll be concentric enough. I'd probably try remaking a slightly-different fixture before I start making 2 new needles from scratch.
 
Dang on the (not) fit!

I've had good success holding small parts for the milling machine by using a pair of hardwood blocks. There's enough give in the wood to snug tightly against the part especially if there's a knurl or thread to grip. Almost like an emergency collet, just using wood instead of metal.

You'll get there... :encourage:
 
I was doing this the other day to finish out converting a R8 collet from M12 to 7/16-20. I broke my 7/16 tap and just wanted to get it done. I have an old 3/8-16 tap with all but one tooth ground away to make an internal single-point thread tool. It doesn't care what pitch I am cutting as long as it is 16 tpi or more. Easy way to get a small internal tool without grinding. Well, no grinding of the thread form anyway.
 
Yes, most show cutting internal threads with a smaller tap, but there are a few doing external threads. This is not the best example, but they get the job done:


This one’s not much better (keep waiting fir those loose long sleeves to get snagged):



I also found a couple showing using a tap to hob a worm gear, like this:

That 2nd video is fubar.

I dont think he even cut a single thread.
 
That 2nd video is fubar.

I dont think he even cut a single thread.
yeah, just scratching off the chalk or whatever he kept rubbing into the scratch marks - and rubbing (instead of cutting) enough to magnetize the tap unless it was already magentized.

It isn't timed right to take a chip. With the camera positioned behind the work, you can see the leading/cutting edge of the flute the whole time it is being pressed against the work and just rubbing.

Weird content.
 
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Nice work!
These are M5x.5. For Mikuni VM carbs.

Neat, it's validating to see those look so similar to what I came up with, especially after the revision I made which maintained a constant diameter to stay under 2.5mm, pics below.

Unfortunately these didn't work either. The long one was too long and bottomed out before threading in, that's fine. The bigger disappointment is that the shorter one I made does thread in, the needle bottoms out in the seat (not the threaded section) - but gives insufficient mixture adjustment. So there must be a different tip geometry that this carb needs.

The requestor is trying to track down pictures of what the tip is supposed to look like, then I can take another shot at it

IMG_20240821_180131265.jpg

IMG_20240821_180112872.jpg
 
I think the best way to cut external threads using a tap is to grind away all but two or three teeth, or ideally, even all but one. A single tooth, well relieved on either side of the tooth, would give you a nice cutting profile and then it is all about the feed rate. Using a carefully aligned tap as an external threading tool, you can scratch pass nicely, but once the tap starts to cut, you are trying to cut along quite a long linear front and that would demand extreme rigidity and good power. The reason that single point threading works so well is that it is a single point. A small amount of pressure can be presented to a very tiny spot and if the tool is properly ground, properly aligned to the part, and held with adequate rigidity, it's gonna cut even on a mini lathe. A bigger lathe doesn't even know it's there. It doesn't take a lot of pressure or rotational power to cut, when that pressure is applied over just a very tiny spot. Multiply that by say 20 tiny spots, and that is a lot more difficult. Add the intervening cutting edge of each tooth and as you cut deeper you end up with a half inch of threading representing over an inch of cut width. Clearly this is going to be difficult and for the typical small lathe, maybe not even possible or practical.

Reducing the threaded length to the bare minimum would make the 3% pitch error less of an issue. A nominal metric pitch of .5 with an actual pitch of 3% finer would be instead of 20 threads over a centimeter, be 20.6 threads. Over a half thread off. In brass it will probably wear in. But if you double the threaded length to two centimeters then the final error is more than an entire thread. Half it to a half centimeter threaded length and the final engaged thread is only a hair over a quarter tooth out of place. With only say 5 threads engaged, 3% pitch error in brass is almost not even an issue. talking 3/20 part of a thread off at one end, with the other end perfectly engaged, or with the center perfectly engaged, either end will be off, one in one direction and one the other, of 75/1000 of the pitch distance. To say that is no biggie is a gross under (over?) statement.

Taps and dies at this pitch are available from China and also from Australia and UK. The Chinese are all over fleabay and amazon, and even the Chinese ones will do when cutting soft stuff, if you don't mind the wait for delivery.

I, too, find it a chore to get all the stars in alignment for single point threading at such a fine pitch. My threads just don't make the cut when I get over 32tpi and yeah I know I could spend the time to address every single issue and make it work on much finer threads, but I just don't roll that way and neither does my Vevor 7-incher. If I ever HAVE to do it, using a single tooth of a tap of the correct pitch at least gives me a good tool profile and I just have to tighten stuff up good and check alignment and stuff.
 
The prior round's modifications did let the needle thread in (the shorter one; the longer one's needle was so long that it bottomed out before the threads engaged), but did not give the desired adjustment to the carb mixture.

The requestor ended up finding someone online with this same generator and carburator who could take some measurements, and the proportions/shape are different than we anticipated.

Here is what someone provided:
1725456854627.png

and two slightly different ones I generated. I'm not 100% sure about the taper angle because I had to try and work it out from the picture and measurements provided but we'll see

IMG_20240904_075232206.jpg


IMG_20240904_075341939.jpg
 
This last set ended up working perfectly for the application in question.

As I worked with the tap more in this way, it indeed was not really cutting as much as flowing the soft material and rolling/forming the threads up. Which makes sense, since the tap is effectively being run backwards.

If the material wasn't soft, or the tap wasn't such a large diameter for the thread pitch (it was sheer luck to have an 8mm tap with such a fine 0.5mm thread pitch), I don't think this method would work. Even then, if this was going to be done more often or be attempted in harder material I would probably try to grind some positive rake into the the flute to turn the back of this one into an actual cutting edge.

Though at that point, unless time is a factor -- of course just buy/grind the right single point tool (assuming a die can't be used)
 
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