Preventing rust while storing collets

[mikey]

I live in Hawaii, about a mile from the ocean and our humidity can get pretty high here, too. I use Camellia oil to wipe down all my tools after use and before storage and have zero rust problems. Its a light vegetable oil that doesn't coagulate and the marketing hype is that it was used to preserve Samurai swords for centuries. I can't attest to the sword thing but can to the tool thing - it is non-toxic and it works.

You can pick some up from the Japan Woodworker.

 

[bcall2043]

I use "Ed's Red", developed by Col. Ed Hatcher in the late 1940's...........This works very well as a solvent & rust preventative.

Restorer,
Charley Davidson and I are experimenting with a modified version of the Ed’s Red formula. We were looking for something that is a handy spray-and-clean that wipes away grime but if not wiped away leaves a thin film of protective lubricating oil. Oh, and is cheap. I started with one part ATF and one part kerosene. I believe Charley is using two parts ATF and one part kerosene. We are using the recycled (cheap) hand sprayer like you are. We have stayed away from the acetone because of flammability, cost, and possible attack of paint and plastics. The Stoddard solvent is not a lot different than kerosene but more expensive. So we have not gone there yet either. The mixes seem to work okay but I think Charley may be right, needs more ATF oil.

Benny
The Orphanage Never Closes

 

[Ray C]

Guys,

Try Way oil. It's pretty sticky and stays for a long time. If you don't feel like springing for that, try some bar & chain oil -just as sticky but it also gums-up. One of the experienced machine rebuilders here discourages bar oil for general lubrication as it seems to gum-up and cause problems. It's also very high sulfur and is more suited for a cutting oil. But for storage, I think you could get away with it. I know it works because it's humid here in Maryland and I used it for this purpose for 3 years or so. I put it on my mill cutters that don't get used as often.


Ray

 

[Ken_Shea]

If stored for long periods get suitable (height/width) metal container, place collets on end with size up and cover just over the top with clear kerosene, size is still readable and kerosene is easily removed, keeps them perfect for about ever.

Ken

 

[cazclocker]

Harry, here's one more idea. Make sure you have a drawer dedicated to storing your collets, and line it with either VPI or VCI paper. It emits a continuous anti-corrosion, anti-rust vapor that won't hurt you but will protect your collets. Since you are in Louisiana (if it was me) I would clean all your collets one time really well in an ultrasonic cleaner and then give them a light coat of any of the oils suggested by the other guys. Once they're coated just a bit, begin keeping them in a drawer lined with VPI or VCI paper. Here's some reading about it: http://www.edcosupply.com/products-services/vci-vpi , http://www.corrosionvci.com/corrosion/vci-paper.php , and http://www.vapor-tek.co.uk/html/products.htm .

Hope that helps.

 

[canerodscom]

Harry, here's one more idea. Make sure you have a drawer dedicated to storing your collets, and line it with either VPI or VCI paper.....

Thanks cazclocker, and everyone else. That idea seems quite workable to me. But it's a shame not to use the cool collet racks provided with the Hardinge lathe.

Harry

 

[flutedchamber]

I run a humidifier and heat/ac in my shop, so the humidity is never over 35%, but I still use these anti rust chips from midway. (http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=anti+rust+chips).

As long as your storage is semi air tight they work wonders, and there's nothing to wipe off. The chips release a gas that prevents rust. I've used them under damp/cold conditions and they work wonders. To store them, I went to Home Depot or Lowes and bought an empty pint paint can.

 

[samthedog]

Air movement and keeping the temperature above that of the surrounding environment is key. I have a small oil heater to keep the garage a little warmer than outside and this has stopped rust dead. If you want to stop the rust you can try a homemade prentative:

2 litres of mineral spirits, a good handful of ground paraffin wax (about 1/2 a kilo) and half a litre of light oil like SAE 30 (non detergent oil is recommended here). Mix this up and let it dissolve. It can take some time but you can help it along in a double boiler.

The theory is that when you spray it on, the spirits evaporate leaving a coating of wax. If the wax gets scratched, the oil flows into the scratch, maintaining the protection. I have see it used and it works pretty darn well.

Paul.

 

[vlajinac]

I have used a 50/50 mixture of pure lanolin dissoved in mineral spirits with very good results.
It takes a while to disolve but works. I wipe it on everything that will rust.

 

[vlajinac]

Sorry, I made an error in my original posting. The mixture mixture should be 1 part pure lanolin dissolved in 5 parts
mineral spirits.

I have used a 50/50 mixture of pure lanolin dissoved in mineral spirits with very good results.
It takes a while to disolve but works. I wipe it on everything that will rust.