POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Key to hip replacement is to do it early on before it is so bad that you get compensations and throws your whole body out of alignment. They keep on coming up with different materials so the newer ones should last a lot longer. Preferred method these days is an anterior or front of leg approach to get to the hip. If uncomplicated usually can be done in about 40 minutes and most people are up and walking by the next day with assistance. Hope you are doing well, the pain from a bad hip can be very debilitating.

PM lathe shows inventory coming in in Sept/Oct. which is just around the corner.You might also look at the Acra 1440C.
 
Key to hip replacement is to do it early on before it is so bad that you get compensations and throws your whole body out of alignment. They keep on coming up with different materials so the newer ones should last a lot longer. Preferred method these days is an anterior or front of leg approach to get to the hip. If uncomplicated usually can be done in about 40 minutes and most people are up and walking by the next day with assistance. Hope you are doing well, the pain from a bad hip can be very debilitating.

PM lathe shows inventory coming in in Sept/Oct. which is just around the corner.You might also look at the Acra 1440C.
They went in the side on mine, like an 8 inch scar. Back to lathes...I have been all over. Started with the G0824 then found things I didn't like and chose the G0709. Then it got completely out of control. A few days looking at used Mori ML850's and offshoots. Upped my budget to $10k and look at more 1440's. Then to $15k, the Eisen cast iron base 5hp already converted to VFD lathe was tempting. Then to $22,500 drooling over a Kingston 17x43. Then I measured available space in my 3 car garage shop and woke up from my dream. :D
 
'm wondering if the rest of the system will accommodate the increased mass of the new arm? Do you think you might have to do some whittling on it to get the reciprocating mass down?
I think it will be fine as the wife only runs it at a slow speed.

Ray
 
Seriously they sent you home same day? They kept me in the hospital for 3 days. Now the surgeon did say, (it was worse than we thought). I was like what does that mean? :confused: My recovery was quick, I was off the walker after a couple of weeks. Just take it easy and follow the instructions about turning your foot inward. As gruesome and barbaric as this surgery is I was surprised how fast I healed up. The 18 months was from the start of the hip pain until they finally agreed to do the surgery.
Glad it worked out for you!
Key to hip replacement is to do it early on before it is so bad that you get compensations and throws your whole body out of alignment. They keep on coming up with different materials so the newer ones should last a lot longer. Preferred method these days is an anterior or front of leg approach to get to the hip. If uncomplicated usually can be done in about 40 minutes and most people are up and walking by the next day with assistance. Hope you are doing well, the pain from a bad hip can be very debilitating.

PM lathe shows inventory coming in in Sept/Oct. which is just around the corner.You might also look at the Acra 1440C.
In through the front at an outpatient surgical facility and walking as soon as the spinal block wore off! I already feel better than I did before the surgery and my foot points straight ahead again! Back to tools…
 
Backhoe pin made to be tolerant of BFH.

We finally welded up the assorted parts to repair the broken backhoe.

We had made doubler plates to add strength to the unit and got real good fits.

We did careful clam ups to tack the broken part in place, then remove the doubler plate and weld up the outside, then grind flat and put the doubler back on, and we'd it on.

All with the pin or the ram in place, we are using 1.125 grade 8 bolts for the pins, a couple bucks more than a pin from TSC, and better than what else we could find.

After it cooled it required a ew hits with a BFH to get the pin out, good and bad, the good is the pin will not move under use, the bad is it takes some pounding to get it out.

We needed to cut the bolt for better length, used the lathe to clean up the end, and then the light went off!

We are using a castle nut so we can add a cotter key so the nut is extra tall.

We turned off the threads at the end of the bolt for about 1/8 an inch.

To remove the pin, we put the nut on the castle first so we have a good target.

Give it taps until we run out of threads, then we hit the narrow end, no threads to bugger up.

We used a brake cylinder hone to clean out the holes, they were cut to size with a boring bar with the plates together, the bolt was a snug slip fit, it is much better but still needs to be hammered out, it is perfect as is.
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@GT-6 Racer

How DO you annodize??

Always wanted to learn how to do that...
not too difficult in theory. I'm using the Caswell LCD method. in practice it's a bit fussy. follow the instructions faithfully and it works exceedingly well. You would need a constant current DC power supply, a glass thermometer, a volt amp meter combo, some small plastic containers, a fish tank air pump, titanium wire, and patience.

Chemicals
battery acid from any auto parts store
ammonia for PH control
Desmut acid from Caswell
dyes and nickel acetate sealer from Caswell

join the Caswell forums and start reading they have all the info you need to get started.
Biggest things are absolutely clean NO OILS, maintain PH in the dyes, 70 F in the acid bath, keep current density at proper levels via 720 rule.


use the Caswell calculator

I find that 0.6 mils anodizing layer works best for dye pickup and is plenty durable.

If you want to buy one of Caswell's kits you get all the stuff at once.
I have no association with Caswell other than a satisfied customer. Happy they tolerate us hobby types and sell small quantity chemicals.

I pieced all my stuff from eBay and surplus auctions. Chemicals from Caswell's Amazon store or Ebay Store.

Happy to discuss. I'm learning too. Not out of the question for anyone who can machine aluminum to anodize their parts to final finish. Hard anodizing is also easily done, just ice the acid bath down to 40 F and follow the current density recommendations. It won't color well though. but is very durable.

Wish I would have started this years ago.
 
Before I discuss your question: what is the model of the Warco horizontal bandsaw? While I could find room for the Grizzly 2x42 belt grinder, I could find room somewhere for a small vertical bandsaw if it's really as sturdy as that appears to be.
It's this one: https://www.warco.co.uk/metal-bandsaws-metalworking-saws/303428-5-inch-bench-bandsaw.html

This model is pretty common everywhere as a rebrand I think.

It's a horizonal type; I got a local fabricator to weld me up a table with a support that can be held in the vice. The rear part of the blade housing is currently just resting on a 1/2"-ish bit of steel plate to get the vertical angle of the blade perpendicular to the table (happy accident that I happend to have a bit of plate the right size). It's very stable but I will have to mod the body and the blade housing to clamp the blade housing in a solid position now its being moved onto a different stand (the stand that used to hold my drill press).

weight & footprint of the new mill, dimensions of the top, details of the frame supporting the top, where on the top will the mill be placed and how you are "laminating the two 1" think plywood layers – two continuous sheets tightly glued would be stronger than the multiple piece layout you have
The weight of a Warco Minor (according to the contemporaneous manual Warco kindly sent me) is 160 Kg. The base is 330 mm x 440 mm.

The bench's frame is welded 40 mm box section (3 mm wall thickness), 1500 x 800 x 900 (the standard work bench design with a 40 mm box section shelf support about 400 mm up from the ground and a pair of evenly spaced 40 mm box section supports for both the shelf and top).

The 'bottom' 1" layer of the ply top is bolted to the frame all round and across the middle supports, and is one piece.

The top 1" 'front' layer (as you look at the picture) was glued on, clamped around the edges, and had various barbell plates (10 and 20 Kg) stacked along the middle, and fairly evenly brad-nailed to the 'bottom' layer all over.

The top 1" 'back' layer (again, as you look at the picture) has now been glued and bradded in the same way as the front.

I should say that the picture is taken from what will be effectively the rear of the bench; the side that will be nearly up against the wall.

There'll be a 6 mm steel plate 'sandwiched' in between the base of the mill and the ply with clearance holes for the bolts. There'll also be a pair of 6 mm plates (something like 500 mm x 100 mm each) running front to back, underneath the workbench top that the bolts will bear on to provide for a more solid mounting.

The mill's base will be mounted as far to the right (as you look at the picture) of the top of the bench as possible (whilst still allowing for full table movement, obviously).

As I said, the picture is taken from what will be the rear of the bench. So, from the user's perspective, the mill will be more towards the left of the bench.

Weight bearing is not something I'm worried about with the bench frame and top. The rigidity of the 6mm plate should be fine too. I guess what was in the back of my mind when I asked, was vibration damping.

My only milling experience is using me 7x14 with a vertical slide, so I'm bound to spend some time in 'chatter-town' as I learn. I suppose my lack of knowledge about ply's characteristics in regard to that prompted the question.
 
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It's this one: https://www.warco.co.uk/metal-bandsaws-metalworking-saws/303428-5-inch-bench-bandsaw.html

This model is pretty common everywhere as a rebrand I think.

It's a horizonal type; I got a local fabricator to weld me up a table with a support that can be held in the vice. The rear part of the blade housing is currently just resting on a 1/2"-ish bit of steel plate to get the vertical angle of the blade perpendicular to the table (happy accident that I happend to have a bit of plate the right size). It's very stable but I will have to mod the body and the blade housing to clamp the blade housing in a solid position now its being moved onto a different stand (the stand that used to hold my drill press).
Thanks; it appears to be the same (or a variant) as the WEN BA4555: https://wenproducts.com/products/wen-ba4555-5-inch-metal-cutting-benchtop-bandsaw

I think I keep looking for a quality horizontal mount for my DeWalt Portaband that lives in a SWAG Vertical Table:
SWAG Debris Tray.jpg


The weight of a Warco Minor (according to the contemporaneous manual Warco kindly sent me) is 160 Kg. The base is 330 mm x 440 mm.

The bench's frame is welded 40 mm box section (3 mm wall thickness), 1500 x 800 x 900 (the standard work bench design with a 40 mm box section shelf support about 400 mm up from the ground and a pair of evenly spaced 40 mm box section supports for both the shelf and top).

The 'bottom' 1" layer of the ply top is bolted to the frame all round and across the middle supports, and is one piece.

The top 1" 'front' layer (as you look at the picture) was glued on, clamped around the edges, and had various barbell plates (10 and 20 Kg) stacked along the middle, and fairly evenly brad-nailed to the 'bottom' layer all over.

The top 1" 'back' layer (again, as you look at the picture) has now been glued and bradded in the same way as the front.

I should say that the picture is taken from what will be effectively the rear of the bench; the side that will be nearly up against the wall.

There'll be a 6 mm steel plate 'sandwiched' in between the base of the mill and the ply with clearance holes for the bolts. There'll also be a pair of 6 mm plates (something like 500 mm x 100 mm each) running front to back, underneath the workbench top that the bolts will bear on to provide for a more solid mounting.

The mill's base will be mounted as far to the right (as you look at the picture) of the top of the bench as possible (whilst still allowing for full table movement, obviously).

As I said, the picture is taken from what will be the rear of the bench. So, from the user's perspective, the mill will be more towards the left of the bench.

Weight bearing is not something I'm worried about with the bench frame and top. The rigidity of the 6mm plate should be fine too. I guess what was in the back of my mind when I asked, was vibration damping.

My only milling experience is using me 7x14 with a vertical slide, so I'm bound to spend some time in 'chatter-town' as I learn. I suppose my lack of knowledge about ply's characteristics in regard to that prompted the question.
My concern would be that it appears the right end of the bench is overhanging the end of the frame: I would place it so that all of the base is inside the frame and preferably centered between one of the cross supports and the end of the frame.
 
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