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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?
- Thread starter wachuko
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Using corrugated metal in most of the shop fairly inexpensive, and has held up very well to abuse. Mounted on osb with a band of 3/4" particle board above for mounting conduit and boxes. The Particle board is spaced out to match the depth of the corrugated metal so the PB band drops over the metal to hold it in place
. Mike
. MikeNice explanation
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- Nov 23, 2014
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I used it for the ceiling in mine. Shop is 32' x 40', used a couple of 16' pieces overlapped in the middle. So much easier than drywall.
Bruce
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- Dec 20, 2021
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Opted for white painted OSB. Painted it before it putting it up. Ran everything in the walls, nothing sticking out. Recessed lights.
Reasons. I plan on making and hanging a lot of cabinets in here, so wanted a flat wall to work with. Screwing small hangers to OSB is easier. Painting it first means the screw heads are easy to get to, if you need access to anything else in the wall.
It helps there's a couple courses of block off the concrete, so didn't have to worry about it getting wet.
Reasons. I plan on making and hanging a lot of cabinets in here, so wanted a flat wall to work with. Screwing small hangers to OSB is easier. Painting it first means the screw heads are easy to get to, if you need access to anything else in the wall.
It helps there's a couple courses of block off the concrete, so didn't have to worry about it getting wet.
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- Nov 23, 2014
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Been awhile since I’ve posted a project! Yeah, I’ve been busy doing this and that but will make an attempt to bore everyone with my projects!
My wife and I have been focused on cleaning up our clutter. Years ago, she was working at a newspaper publisher who folded. They gave employees a chance to pick over the premises before it went to scrap. My wife wanted the 3 light tables which have been setting unused in our barn for 15 years. Two of the three had sheet metal bases which were disassembled and set aside as stock and/or taken to the scrapyard. One of them had a nice, solid tubular steel base which I repurposed as a rolling workbench.
Light table base before grinding off some top brackets
Long story longer, here’s a picture of the current bench which I posted 7 years ago. I’d taken a 3’ x 2’ rolling cart and made it into a rolling bench. It worked, but it wasn’t very substantial.
I started on the new bench by welding on some plate to the feet for casters. I wanted to reuse the particle-board bench top, but alas it wasn’t wide enough to cover the new base. I made filler piece from an old 2 x 10 that had bowed on the edge by at least ¼”. I clamped a straightedge to the board and made a pass with a circular saw. Then to the table saw to rip it parallel.
Added some 1/8" plate for mounting casters
All set for a new top!
Oh well, old top isn't as wide as the new bench. . .
Trued up a 2x10 with a straightedge and circular saw. Then ripped to width on the table saw.
I didn’t show it, but the tops were carriage bolted to the tubular steel base. The green cabinet at one end was something my dad made for their photo business; it’s found a new home!
New home for Dremel tools and die filer files
Didn't show it, but made a plywood tray for the bottom to hold more accumulation
Thanks for looking! Bruce
My wife and I have been focused on cleaning up our clutter. Years ago, she was working at a newspaper publisher who folded. They gave employees a chance to pick over the premises before it went to scrap. My wife wanted the 3 light tables which have been setting unused in our barn for 15 years. Two of the three had sheet metal bases which were disassembled and set aside as stock and/or taken to the scrapyard. One of them had a nice, solid tubular steel base which I repurposed as a rolling workbench.
Light table base before grinding off some top brackets
Long story longer, here’s a picture of the current bench which I posted 7 years ago. I’d taken a 3’ x 2’ rolling cart and made it into a rolling bench. It worked, but it wasn’t very substantial.
I started on the new bench by welding on some plate to the feet for casters. I wanted to reuse the particle-board bench top, but alas it wasn’t wide enough to cover the new base. I made filler piece from an old 2 x 10 that had bowed on the edge by at least ¼”. I clamped a straightedge to the board and made a pass with a circular saw. Then to the table saw to rip it parallel.
Added some 1/8" plate for mounting casters
All set for a new top!
Oh well, old top isn't as wide as the new bench. . .
Trued up a 2x10 with a straightedge and circular saw. Then ripped to width on the table saw.
I didn’t show it, but the tops were carriage bolted to the tubular steel base. The green cabinet at one end was something my dad made for their photo business; it’s found a new home!
New home for Dremel tools and die filer files
Didn't show it, but made a plywood tray for the bottom to hold more accumulation
Thanks for looking! Bruce
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,632
POTD was making a bracket to mount a DPDT switch. Material of choice was some 1/8” aluminum plate. Mounting holes were drilled and countersunk on the Bridgeport. Then, a ½” hole drilled for the switch. Then over to the Diacro brake to put in a bend.
DPDT switch, couple of mounting screws and some 1/8" aluminum for the bracket
Drilled mounting holes on the BP
Diacro brake for the bend
Final switch bracket
What’s the switch for? We have a virtual pinball machine that I was adding some solenoids to for the “mechanical sound” when hitting the flippers. The DPDT switch lets me turn the solenoids on or off.
Flipper solenoid kit; power supply and a couple of boards/solenoids
Wired it up and verified the DPDT switch turns the solenoids on/off. And "yes", the solenoids are 12V and look A LOT like a starter solenoid.
We host a few family functions every year and have a couple of real pinball machines for folks to play. The problem is, after a half-hour of playing a table, it’s the same old, same old table. Plus, a typical pinball machine has about ½-mile of wiring in it and decades old hardware to maintain.
What could EVER go wrong here!
I picked up the virtual machine last year to add some variety. There’s a pretty active community who develop new tables as a hobby. There are over 1000 to chose from! So, play a table for a few minutes, get bored or stink at the table? Just hit a button and load up another one.
The tables have added sound effects through the speakers for the various bells and whistles; “clunk” sounds when hitting the flippers or the ball hits a pop bumper or slingshot. They are essentially a video game. In the “let me throw more at it to make it seem closer to a real machine” category, folks add solenoids, gear motors, shaker motors, etc. to get the same physical shake/clack noises as a real machine.
I first wired everything up to test it out before installing the hardware. Worked fine on the floor, so time to “open the hood”. Pretty simple installation, mount the DPDT switch, route wiring into the cabinet, screw the solenoids in place, screw down the power supply and wire it up to the flipper switches.
A look pre-solenoid installation under the playfield monitor. Just a handful of switches and wiring running back to the computer mounted in the back box.
After install. The flipper switches are wired to the solenoid control boards which in turn are wired to the machine's flipper wiring. The control board hits the solenoid with enough juice to get a "clack" noise, then drops the voltage to maintain the solenoid's closed position. That saves the solenoid coil from over-heating.
ON/OFF solenoid switch mounted to the side of the cabinet. There's also an amp there for a sound system upgrade I did earlier. This included a bass shaker speaker that moves the table so much that the internal accelerometer for nudging the table had to be disabled. Otherwise, the table tilted on its own just from the vibration from the speaker. I can still "nudge" the table with a couple of switches next to the flipper switches. It also controls a couple of "exciters"; speakers without paper cones that are attached to the cabinet and generate sound by shaking the cabinet.
Time for the “flipping” with real “clack, clack” noises!
"Let me make you an offer you can't refuse"; play me now!
Thanks for looking! Bruce
DPDT switch, couple of mounting screws and some 1/8" aluminum for the bracket
Drilled mounting holes on the BP
Diacro brake for the bend
Final switch bracket
What’s the switch for? We have a virtual pinball machine that I was adding some solenoids to for the “mechanical sound” when hitting the flippers. The DPDT switch lets me turn the solenoids on or off.
Flipper solenoid kit; power supply and a couple of boards/solenoids
Wired it up and verified the DPDT switch turns the solenoids on/off. And "yes", the solenoids are 12V and look A LOT like a starter solenoid.
We host a few family functions every year and have a couple of real pinball machines for folks to play. The problem is, after a half-hour of playing a table, it’s the same old, same old table. Plus, a typical pinball machine has about ½-mile of wiring in it and decades old hardware to maintain.
What could EVER go wrong here!
I picked up the virtual machine last year to add some variety. There’s a pretty active community who develop new tables as a hobby. There are over 1000 to chose from! So, play a table for a few minutes, get bored or stink at the table? Just hit a button and load up another one.
The tables have added sound effects through the speakers for the various bells and whistles; “clunk” sounds when hitting the flippers or the ball hits a pop bumper or slingshot. They are essentially a video game. In the “let me throw more at it to make it seem closer to a real machine” category, folks add solenoids, gear motors, shaker motors, etc. to get the same physical shake/clack noises as a real machine.
I first wired everything up to test it out before installing the hardware. Worked fine on the floor, so time to “open the hood”. Pretty simple installation, mount the DPDT switch, route wiring into the cabinet, screw the solenoids in place, screw down the power supply and wire it up to the flipper switches.
A look pre-solenoid installation under the playfield monitor. Just a handful of switches and wiring running back to the computer mounted in the back box.
After install. The flipper switches are wired to the solenoid control boards which in turn are wired to the machine's flipper wiring. The control board hits the solenoid with enough juice to get a "clack" noise, then drops the voltage to maintain the solenoid's closed position. That saves the solenoid coil from over-heating.
ON/OFF solenoid switch mounted to the side of the cabinet. There's also an amp there for a sound system upgrade I did earlier. This included a bass shaker speaker that moves the table so much that the internal accelerometer for nudging the table had to be disabled. Otherwise, the table tilted on its own just from the vibration from the speaker. I can still "nudge" the table with a couple of switches next to the flipper switches. It also controls a couple of "exciters"; speakers without paper cones that are attached to the cabinet and generate sound by shaking the cabinet.
Time for the “flipping” with real “clack, clack” noises!
"Let me make you an offer you can't refuse"; play me now!
Thanks for looking! Bruce