POTD was making a bracket to mount a DPDT switch. Material of choice was some 1/8” aluminum plate. Mounting holes were drilled and countersunk on the Bridgeport. Then, a ½” hole drilled for the switch. Then over to the Diacro brake to put in a bend.
DPDT switch, couple of mounting screws and some 1/8" aluminum for the bracket
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Drilled mounting holes on the BP
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Diacro brake for the bend
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Final switch bracket
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What’s the switch for? We have a virtual pinball machine that I was adding some solenoids to for the “mechanical sound” when hitting the flippers. The DPDT switch lets me turn the solenoids on or off.
Flipper solenoid kit; power supply and a couple of boards/solenoids
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Wired it up and verified the DPDT switch turns the solenoids on/off. And "yes", the solenoids are 12V and look A LOT like a starter solenoid.
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We host a few family functions every year and have a couple of real pinball machines for folks to play. The problem is, after a half-hour of playing a table, it’s the same old, same old table. Plus, a typical pinball machine has about ½-mile of wiring in it and decades old hardware to maintain.
What could EVER go wrong here!
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I picked up the virtual machine last year to add some variety. There’s a pretty active community who develop new tables as a hobby. There are over 1000 to chose from! So, play a table for a few minutes, get bored or stink at the table? Just hit a button and load up another one.
The tables have added sound effects through the speakers for the various bells and whistles; “clunk” sounds when hitting the flippers or the ball hits a pop bumper or slingshot. They are essentially a video game. In the “let me throw more at it to make it seem closer to a real machine” category, folks add solenoids, gear motors, shaker motors, etc. to get the same physical shake/clack noises as a real machine.
I first wired everything up to test it out before installing the hardware. Worked fine on the floor, so time to “open the hood”. Pretty simple installation, mount the DPDT switch, route wiring into the cabinet, screw the solenoids in place, screw down the power supply and wire it up to the flipper switches.
A look pre-solenoid installation under the playfield monitor. Just a handful of switches and wiring running back to the computer mounted in the back box.
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After install. The flipper switches are wired to the solenoid control boards which in turn are wired to the machine's flipper wiring. The control board hits the solenoid with enough juice to get a "clack" noise, then drops the voltage to maintain the solenoid's closed position. That saves the solenoid coil from over-heating.
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ON/OFF solenoid switch mounted to the side of the cabinet. There's also an amp there for a sound system upgrade I did earlier. This included a bass shaker speaker that moves the table so much that the internal accelerometer for nudging the table had to be disabled. Otherwise, the table tilted on its own just from the vibration from the speaker. I can still "nudge" the table with a couple of switches next to the flipper switches. It also controls a couple of "exciters"; speakers without paper cones that are attached to the cabinet and generate sound by shaking the cabinet.
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Time for the “flipping” with real “clack, clack” noises!
"Let me make you an offer you can't refuse"; play me now!
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Thanks for looking! Bruce