POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Nutfarmer]

Anyone local to Sacramento area needs oak round for an anvil base just ask.

 

[mmcmdl]

Anyone local to Sacramento area needs oak round for an anvil base just ask.

Anyone needing a 12 foot long by 49" diameter oak log just ask also !

 

[woodchucker]

The guy was telling me that a few customers would have pieces cut and then complain and return them or just leave them there... so they stopped doing that. I will miss it as they even cut the 8' butcher block I bought from them, in three sections... no issues.

Anyway... an update...

Base is bolted and glued together...

View attachment 455106

View attachment 455107

This toolbox is done... all the felt installed. drawers have it in all faces. On the top, I only installed it on the bottom. No plans to do anything to the outside as I do not want to disturb any of the markings and names from previous owners.

View attachment 455110

View attachment 455111

And just for laughs... I drilled the holes to secure the base for the vise. 4" deep... and figured, to make sure it is a stronger installation, that I would also use epoxy.

View attachment 455112

Well... in the seconds that it took me pouring the epoxy into the holes, grab the bolts, move the base in place.... guess what!!?? The epoxy had harden! Son of a gun!

View attachment 455114

When the label reads "Fast Cure", they were not kidding!!

View attachment 455115


So I get to drill all that out and install without it...

I thought you already made your anvil stand, what was the picture from earlier?
The drawers came out great.
I'll bet the fast cure was even faster in your hot humid environment.

 

[wachuko]

I thought you already made your anvil stand, what was the picture from earlier?
The drawers came out great.
I'll bet the fast cure was even faster in your hot humid environment.

The photos were from where I got the idea... I am still in the process of building mine... almost done...

 

[ChazzC]

You mean like this?
View attachment 455109

Zactly! You win the prize (see @mmcmdl, he’s got lots of excess stuff).

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Second coat of primer for the motor mount.

Cleaned up the knurling on the cabinet latch



And got some parts blued

 

[mmcmdl]

Some things were moved in and onto the table , but something is missing . 3 more HF rollers have to come up . But I still am in need ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,on another post .

 

[Larry$]

The expertise herein is outstanding!

Old woodworker here. The drawback to shellack is it is not very durable but French polishing gives a beautiful finish. Other finishes can be used with the French polishing technique to give better durability. Whichever finish you use totally saturate the wood and wet sand with fine Wet & dry paper using the finish as the lube. This will create a very fine slurry that will fill the pores after several applications. I've used an acrylic modified lacquer with the French polishing technique. You have to use a slow flash-off solvent rather than regular lacquer thinner. Once you have done enough coats using the fine wet & dry paper all the porosity will be filled and you can start to build finish just using the pad. Never stop a stroke with the pad on the surface! Rub the coats until they are dry. Labor intensive! Open grain lumber like oak will need to be filled with a commercial filler first. Even that will take several coats to get a truly flat surface since it shrinks some as it dries. Depending on what effect you are looking for you can tint the filler with universal colorants. Sherwin Williams sells them. Watch out though, always test first on junk material. One last note, when using a finish that doesn't redissolve with the next coat you have to make every application within the time frame that the existing finish is still subject to slight softening to get an interlayer bond. You can get a bond if you've let it go too far by fine sanding again. Shellac remains solvent sensitive in its alcohol thinner forever. If you are going the shellack route, buy shellack flakes and prep your own since once mixed things go down hill over time. The ready to use stuff in the store may have been there too long. The flakes can be had bleached or natural. Again, test on scrap first, it's not as easy as it sounds. Ten coats is a good starting point.

 

[Provincial]

This wasn't today. I made this almost 40 years ago. I wanted a built-in indicator "stand" on my 10" Atlas QC42 lathe, so I built this. The base is a piece of 3/8" thick cold rolled steel, the main column is 3/8" cold rolled steel, and the secondary arm is 5/16" cold rolled steel. The swivels are standard catalog items bought from J&L, Wholesale Tool, or some other mail-order source. This was before the Internet became a way to buy things!
The jam bolt for the main column is a 10-32 aircraft bolt. I substituted longer bolts to hold the base to the bottom gibs of the carriage. The bend in the secondary arm is the secret to getting this to work, as it allows the indicator to get square to the work while the rod is angled. By positioning the column just ahead of the cross slide, it allows the indicator to be tilted out of the way while cutting, since the tool is working even with, or ahead of, the indicator column.



I took these photos today to send to my son. He is going to University in Berlin, Germany, and is active in the glider flying club. He has become the go-to guy for using the machine tools donated to the club. They repair the gliders, and design and build their own. Design and build takes many years, and lots of volunteer labor.

He wants to build a similar holder for the Club lathe.

 

[wachuko]

I am going to call this one done… only need to mount the anvil when it arrives…



Oh, and the vise stand is now secured as well…