POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

My coworker/friend/helper Jack was here today working on the knee mill, & he did a small amount of O/A welding.

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Pro Tip: When OA welding, bring the hose under the armpit of the arm holding the filler, across the back of the neck and down the welder arm. Let it wrap around the arm, so that it goes inside then outside and back into your hand. That takes almost all of the weight of the hose off of the welding hand.
 
I can't read the signs on the trees, do they still have these out there in nature?
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Today i was for a good walk in near by nature, you can see the signs now.
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Well, just voided my warranty on my Jacobs drill chuck ;).
Just kidding.
I have wanted to do this for a long time. And today I had problems with my straight shank chuck and just couldn't resolve it quickly.
Short story: I cut the tang off the MT2 taper, and threaded the end with 3/8 - 16. Much more solid, and no more problem with the old chuck.
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Long story: I was testing notching 1" conduit for my lathe brake foot bar. I have Lenox , Blu Mol, and Milwaukee hole saws. I like the Lenox the best due to the aggressive teeth, but was afraid it wasn't going to work on the conduit. I thought I might need finer teeth. So I put the mill in low (mistake #1) And tried notching the end of the conduit. It kept grabbing, and stalling the belts on the mill. The motor continued on, mainly because the motor in low is real small. Finally it broke the chuck off the J33 taper . The previous owner of the chuck didn't fix the problem correctly, they used a punch to set the taper and chuck. 3 around the edge of the chuck. It's preventing the chuck from seating. So, no time to deal with it now, I tried, but it's going to require a lot more work. So time to take one of my super chucks and cut the tang off. I have wanted to do this for a long time. There are no Mt2 taper to J3 (14n uses J3) with a draw bar connection. My Clausing mill self ejects tapers because it has a cap on top of the spindle that draw bar that pushes on. That means having to remove the cap and 2 set screws each time to use a regular tanged drill chuck.
I don't want to do that, and no doubt a draw bar makes it a more solid connection. I thought it was going to be case hardened but it was easy to cut with a HSS parting blade, and then drilled and tapped for the draw bar. Tapping was hard. I was worried that I would break the tap. But just lots of backing out and cleaning. Done: back to notching. This time brought the speed to the lowest speed in high. And successfully notched the end. Now that I know it will work, I'll pick up another Lenox in 1.125 and I'll grind the extra 60 thou needed, or file it with a coarse rat tail file.
Finally I get to use my 14n in the mill, instead of just in the lathe. I'll make another ejector button for the lathe tailstock if I want to use it there. Sometimes I load up all the chucks with different drill bits for a job, and switch chucks rather than change bits in a chuck.
 
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A few weeks ago I bought a "custom" Baldor motor for my 2 x 72 grinder, here it is as provided.

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Yes, I did think for a minute about using it to power the jewelers lathe in the background....
The part sticking off the end is a Stearns braking unit, don't need it and the coil is 460v anyway.

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Today I tested the motor with a super cheap Vevor VFD I bought for the purpose, yes I know it would be nice to pair this up with a high quality unit like a Hitachi or Teco but literally all I need is variable speed so that's what I got.

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Anyone who thinks they have a good use for the braking unit can have it for the price of a medium flat rate box.

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John
 
Idle hands are the devil's workshop. I ordered bearings for my lathe's motor nearly a week ago. They arrived this afternoon. While waiting, I dove into the lathe's wiring system as I want to put it back to how the factory made it. Anyway, like building a car, where do you stop and call it good enough? I haven't hit that point yet, but I've further disassembled it, and am considering taking it all the way down for a thorough cleaning, fixing what's broken - hopefully, and painting. IDK, we'll see. I'll reassemble the motor first and re-evaluate, but I'll likely go for broke.
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Pro Tip: When OA welding, bring the hose under the armpit of the arm holding the filler, across the back of the neck and down the welder arm. Let it wrap around the arm, so that it goes inside then outside and back into your hand. That takes almost all of the weight of the hose off of the welding hand.

Spectacular tip! I have had the weight of the hose bothering me for weeks.
 
Didn't make anything yesterday - I cleaned out the parts washer, which was looooong overdue.
I have 2 observations :
#1 - I was amazed at how much gritty mud was in the bottom - I mostly buy filthy old machines, but I didn't think they were THAT bad ......
#2 - I was MIGHTY glad I had stashed a 25lb bag of kitty litter in the corner, last year - I will say no more about it, except that yesterday afternoon was a small chapter in my life that I'd rather not re-visit :~(
 
Didn't make anything yesterday - I cleaned out the parts washer, which was looooong overdue.
I have 2 observations :
#1 - I was amazed at how much gritty mud was in the bottom - I mostly buy filthy old machines, but I didn't think they were THAT bad ......
#2 - I was MIGHTY glad I had stashed a 25lb bag of kitty litter in the corner, last year - I will say no more about it, except that yesterday afternoon was a small chapter in my life that I'd rather not re-visit :~(
I have a parts washer that I need to clean as well. Without fail I can find something else to do to avoid the task. Go to the dentist, call the mother in law, try and get a migraine etc.
My process is to let it sit for a week so all the contaminants can settle then run the pump to pull the cleaner fluid from the top. For some reason, here of late I have been dropping stuff like chainsaw blades in it on a regular basis.
 
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