POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

@wachuko

Nice job on the AP.

Using Delrin for the wear plate will probably work for quite a while, but my choice would be to use a bronze sheet material for a lifetime of use.

Pick a material thickness that fills the gap, drill two holes through and use the bolts (with dog points, not contacting the ram) to locate the wear plate. Notice McMaster sells 2" x 12" strips for pretty low $$.

 
@wachuko

Nice job on the AP.

Using Delrin for the wear plate will probably work for quite a while, but my choice would be to use a bronze sheet material for a lifetime of use.

Pick a material thickness that fills the gap, drill two holes through and use the bolts (with dog points, not contacting the ram) to locate the wear plate. Notice McMaster sells 2" x 12" strips for pretty low $$.

Thanks.

I will remove the front cover and check the depth of the indentation in the cover… guessing it is at least 1/8” deep…
 
Thanks.

I will remove the front cover and check the depth of the indentation in the cover… guessing it is at least 1/8” deep…

If 1/8" material is useable, McMaster also sells the oil impregnated sintered bronze (Oilite type) sheet stock. However the cost, assuming that's a factor, is more than I would like to sink into the job. I'm just throwing it out there FYI.


You could machine the cover to use a thinner wear plate.

Or, you could just use Delrin and I'll shut up. LOL
 
Printed up a couple more cx600 (BF20, G0704, etc) plastic gears:

fr_3881.jpg

Hoping I won't need them, but having a couple in the drawer might get me out of a tight fix sometime.

Also printed off an R8 collet rack for inside the cabinet door:

fr_3882.jpg

All done in ABS.

I prefer printing in abs, even though most people seem to hate it (for the warping issues). I also hated it when i started, but after some upgrades (custom Marlin firmware, volcano hot end, direct extruder, etc) and adjustments (primarily, get the Z offset bang on), I 100% prefer it over other filaments.

I find ABS is also the easiest print material to do post print processing on (ie: sands easily, good temp resistance, easily smoothed/strengthened with acetone vapor, etc).

I find Pla and such overall too weak, too low a temp tolerance (and post printing is a nightmare) and too UV sensitive. It is pretty hard and fairly forgiving of settings that might not be quite right when printing, I'll give it that.
Nylon is a horrible filament for absorbing water (which really friggs it up when printing as the water boils off) and the specialty filaments all seem to have their own particular wants.

I have been wanting to try a roll of Delrin filament though, just to see if it holds up like "regular" Delrin.....
 
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Printed up a couple more cx600 (BF20, G0704, etc) plastic gears:

View attachment 410953

Hoping I won't need them, but having a couple in the drawer might get me out of a tight fix sometime.

Also printed off an R8 collet rack for inside the cabinet door:

View attachment 410954

All done in ABS. I prefer abs, even though most people seem to hate it (for the warping issues). I did also when i started, but after some upgrades (custom firmware, volcano hot end, direct extruder, etc) and adjustments (primarily, get the Z offset bang on), I 100% prefer it over other filaments. Pla and such is too weak and too low a temp tolerance, Nylon is a horrible filament for absorbing water and the specialty filaments all seem to have their own particular wants.
PLA is actually stronger than ABS... for a while. If I recall, the problem with PLA is that it breaks down too quickly (even faster when exposed to UV light) and loses its strength. It is easier to print with because it has a lower melting temperature. Most printer kits come with PLA samples, and that locks people into it.

Your prints look great. ABS is the appropriate material, and you definitely need spare gears. The rack looks fabulous!

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk
 
PLA is actually stronger than ABS... for a while. If I recall, the problem with PLA is that it breaks down too quickly (even faster when exposed to UV light) and loses its strength. It is easier to print with because it has a lower melting temperature. Most printer kits come with PLA samples, and that locks people into it.

Your prints look great. ABS is the appropriate material, and you definitely need spare gears. The rack looks fabulous!

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk

Oops, looks like I ninja edited on you. LOL!

I'm not sure that Stronger is the right word. Harder I woudl agree with. But I find it's much easier to get pla prints to break (typically, separates at the layers). All things equal, I find abs achieves a much stronger layer bond than PLA prints. Maybe it's because of the higher printing temps, dunno.....

as I mentioned int he ninja edit, I suspect a lot of people have a preference for PLA because it's easier to get started with as it has a wider "margin for error" on the operators part. I also found i easier to start with PLA, but once I had a little experience under my bet, ABS became The King for me.

Thanks for the compliment on the rack. I can't take full credit for it though. I downloaded the STL off thingiverse and the printer is doing the rest.....;)
 
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Bolts ..................... :surrender: 10,000 bolts around this house , 50 times that in at work . I have to mount a winch and don't have what I need . I never do . Off to the Ace across the street . :cussing:
 
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