POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

@GoceKU that's interesting. Funny you you mention carnauba wax. I have a block of solid 100% carnauba wax. Might be 1/2 kg, maybe more. It is the hardest wax I have ever seen. Wish I knew how to make it into a high grade wax. I have an ancient Chemical Formulary book, but the recipe uses materials that are hard to find these days. Does anyone on HM know how (and could share how) to make your own carnauba wax from raw materials?
From what i've seen you can easily melt down the wax, mix in mineral oils to make it less dense, but at the end it needs to be tested for UV resistance. Perhaps is better to leave the chemistry to the professionals.
 
POTD was GREAT; it was me watching a crew of guys do the work in 95 F weather! We recently had solar panels installed by Pink Energy. They still have a little work to do, but the system is somewhat up and running. Trenching for the buried electrical lines is still open pending inspection. Also, we need the power company to come and bless the system before we potentially start sending power back up the grid.

Thanks for looking, Bruce
I've had a number of PM's regarding our solar panels, figured it was easiest to do a posting here for the reply. General question is "is it worth it?"

It depends on your motivation. If it's to reduce your dependence on the grid, it's worth it. If your motivation is to save money on your overall electric bill, it doesn't make sense. My wife wanted to put the system in, we could afford it, so we did.

In Michigan, current legislation does not allow a residence to be a "solar farm". The solar set up for a private residence cannot exceed your historic electric bills. The power companies want to sell electricity, not buy electricity. I'm fine with that; it's the same thing as if a neighbor asked to use my shop for no cost for power/maintenance for his private business. The power companies maintain the lines; it's not "fair" for me to send them overall net power without having to fit some of the bill for maintaining the lines.

Our system is at 95+%, 22 solar panels generating 380 W each (at peak sun) for a total of ~8300 W/hour. Two more panels put us over 100%. Our average electric bill is $175 per month; the sales gal for Pink Energy figured we'd drop down to $40 a month. That's a predicted savings of about $1600 a year on our electric bill.

Our system (if financed through Pink Energy for 1 year) is $80,000. The US government is giving a tax credit of 26% in 2022 for solar panel installs which drops the price to $59K. The sales gal said the payback would be 5 to 8 years but the math doesn't work out. $59K / $1600/year is a 37 year payback assuming no interest on the $59K. Part of their predictive model is an assumption that the cost of power will go up by a factor of 3 in the next 15 years.

In our case, we are paying cash which gets our cost down to $72,000. We'll get our 26% tax credit next year which gets the total cost down to $53K. $53K / $1600/year is 33 year payback at our current electric rates. Part of the Pink Energy bill is also a sweep through the house to replace every incandescent bulb with LEDs and top off our attic insulation at 12".

So why doesn't a 95+% system take a $175 monthly bill down by 95% instead of just down to $40? When we send power back up the grid, our power company credits us $0.50 on the dollar. Naturally, we generate nothing at night so pay full price for power off the grid. During the day, we're sending power back to the grid at a 50% discount. By the way, not all power companies buy power back; check with your company if you are looking into solar.

Our system has a number of modes that I still need to learn. There is a mode where in the morning the primary solar function is to charge the Generac back-up batteries. After they're charged, the solar feeds the house and sends any overage up the grid. When/if the house draw exceeds the solar output (especially at night), the batteries will supply power until they're drained, then we're back on the grid. It's best for the batteries to regularly cycle anyhow, plus that'll let us use 9 kW/hour (battery capacity) of power that we generated at no cost before starting to use grid power.

Our system isn't totally up and running yet as we're waiting for a couple of inspections. Our solar controller is currently set to draw 40W minimum from the grid and not send any power back up the pole (need the power company inspection to turn that one). I suspect looking at our electric bills that even with the A/C running in the summer, we'll have nada for an electric bill. Our power company "pays" for our power through credits. When the geothermal is running in the winter and our daylight hours drop, we'll have our bills offset by the credits earned through the summer.

Summarizing, I wouldn't bother if you're looking at solar as a way to save money. But if you want to get off the grid and maybe help with the overall carbon footprint, it "probably" helps some.

Bruce
 
I've had a number of PM's regarding our solar panels, figured it was easiest to do a posting here for the reply. General question is "is it worth it?"

It depends on your motivation. If it's to reduce your dependence on the grid, it's worth it. If your motivation is to save money on your overall electric bill, it doesn't make sense. My wife wanted to put the system in, we could afford it, so we did.

In Michigan, current legislation does not allow a residence to be a "solar farm". The solar set up for a private residence cannot exceed your historic electric bills. The power companies want to sell electricity, not buy electricity. I'm fine with that; it's the same thing as if a neighbor asked to use my shop for no cost for power/maintenance for his private business. The power companies maintain the lines; it's not "fair" for me to send them overall net power without having to fit some of the bill for maintaining the lines.

Our system is at 95+%, 22 solar panels generating 380 W each (at peak sun) for a total of ~8300 W/hour. Two more panels put us over 100%. Our average electric bill is $175 per month; the sales gal for Pink Energy figured we'd drop down to $40 a month. That's a predicted savings of about $1600 a year on our electric bill.

Our system (if financed through Pink Energy for 1 year) is $80,000. The US government is giving a tax credit of 26% in 2022 for solar panel installs which drops the price to $59K. The sales gal said the payback would be 5 to 8 years but the math doesn't work out. $59K / $1600/year is a 37 year payback assuming no interest on the $59K. Part of their predictive model is an assumption that the cost of power will go up by a factor of 3 in the next 15 years.

In our case, we are paying cash which gets our cost down to $72,000. We'll get our 26% tax credit next year which gets the total cost down to $53K. $53K / $1600/year is 33 year payback at our current electric rates. Part of the Pink Energy bill is also a sweep through the house to replace every incandescent bulb with LEDs and top off our attic insulation at 12".

So why doesn't a 95+% system take a $175 monthly bill down by 95% instead of just down to $40? When we send power back up the grid, our power company credits us $0.50 on the dollar. Naturally, we generate nothing at night so pay full price for power off the grid. During the day, we're sending power back to the grid at a 50% discount. By the way, not all power companies buy power back; check with your company if you are looking into solar.

Our system has a number of modes that I still need to learn. There is a mode where in the morning the primary solar function is to charge the Generac back-up batteries. After they're charged, the solar feeds the house and sends any overage up the grid. When/if the house draw exceeds the solar output (especially at night), the batteries will supply power until they're drained, then we're back on the grid. It's best for the batteries to regularly cycle anyhow, plus that'll let us use 9 kW/hour (battery capacity) of power that we generated at no cost before starting to use grid power.

Our system isn't totally up and running yet as we're waiting for a couple of inspections. Our solar controller is currently set to draw 40W minimum from the grid and not send any power back up the pole (need the power company inspection to turn that one). I suspect looking at our electric bills that even with the A/C running in the summer, we'll have nada for an electric bill. Our power company "pays" for our power through credits. When the geothermal is running in the winter and our daylight hours drop, we'll have our bills offset by the credits earned through the summer.

Summarizing, I wouldn't bother if you're looking at solar as a way to save money. But if you want to get off the grid and maybe help with the overall carbon footprint, it "probably" helps some.

Bruce
I am doing the same… In my case, 38 -400 watts panels and two Tesla batteries… they should doing the install in two months…

But same approach… solar during the day to charge batteries and run the house… batteries to run at night
 
my friend that moved away to FL was not paying for electricity in NJ.. he said he was generating more than he used , and therefore was receiving money back... THAT'S in NJ...
no battery system, so he was not independent off the grid, very much on the grid, and when it went down, so did he.
 
POTD was working on my 20-year old Delta miter saw. This particular model (36-255L) has line lasers on either side of the 12” blade to mark the cut. It works great, until it doesn’t. . . My wife went to cross cut a board; the saw worked, but the lasers didn’t.


Our Delta 12" miter saw with the handle off for "fixing"
20220612_124341.jpg


Pulled the handle and put 3.7 V directly to the lasers and they fired up. Checked the output of the 110 V to 3V transformer and got nothing. Went on Amazon and got an 80 – 230 V to 3 – 20V LED driver for $7 delivered. Wired it in and fired up the saw; no lasers. Went back to the direct 3.7 V battery check and no lasers, what the heck?!? I checked the output of the LED driver at 50+ V DC; cooked the lasers. . . Stupid me, I should have checked the output voltage before firing up the saw. I’ll have to check on the difference (?) between an LED driver and a transformer. The LED driver label says it’s constant current, so voltage must be varied to maintain a constant Watt output? My electrical no-how pretty much stops at E=I*R and P=I*E.


3.7V battery fired up the lasers fine
20220612_124712.jpg

50+ V from the new LED driver (ouch)! The lasers expect a max of ~5V.
20220612_154246.jpg


Google’d replacement parts for the saw and found the laser modules for about $93 each (ouch). Pulled the lasers from their mounts and measured them at 10 mm diameter. Searched on Amazon for “Laser line LED” and found a ton for under $10. But the diameters were all 6, 9 or 12 mm. Ordered a couple of 9 mm ones. I didn’t show it, but ended up using a 110V to 5V USB plug-in transformer for the power source.


Capture.JPG

The original lasers have a hex on the end for adjusting the clocking of the laser line (clock the line parallel to the saw blade). This was added by drilling out a couple of ¼” nuts which were glued to the lasers with red Loctite. I went the quick route to build up the diameter from 9 mm to 10 mm by running some electrical tape around the lasers. Not my best fix, but I have a plan B. I found some 10 mm x 0.2 mm wall stock brass tubing on Amazon which will be here in a couple of days. The lasers press into a plastic detail, they are easy to pull. I'll Loctite a length of tubing in place for a more solid fix. The tape works fine, but I’m worried about plastic creep over time which could lead to misalignment.


1/4" - 20 nuts chucked up prior to drilling them out with a 9mm drill
20220614_152601.jpg

Checking fit with a laser
20220614_153044.jpg

Original lasers up top, taped up replacements below.
20220617_120828.jpg

Mounting brackets for the lasers. The lasers press into a plastic detail. A screw on the side adjusts the position side to side. The hex nut on the back of the laser is used for clocking the laser line parallel to the blade. The headless set screw is used to flex the plastic mount side to side to adjust the laser so it's parallel to the plane of the saw blade.
20220617_120615.jpg

All wired up and caulked (gasket goop) at the top. I didn't show it, but I misrouted the jumper harness from the saw handle to the lasers. The routing is important; the saw blade clipped both lines . . . I'm pretty good at soldering wires back together . . .
20220618_120728.jpg

Back in business!
20220618_122000.jpg

I adjusted the lasers by flushing a piece of white cardboard to the blade, then taped it in place. Then adjusted the clocking to be parallel with the blade/paper edge. Then adjusted the beam to be in the same plane as the blade with the headless set screw. Lastly, adjusted the side to side screw so the laser is scrubbing past the side of the blade to mark the kerf.
20220618_134329.jpg


Thanks for looking, Bruce
 
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