Parker Majestic #2 surface grinder

[7milesup]

Totally fine @7milesup!
It’s all learning for me. And I was frankly surprised that Parker Majestic calls for #2 every where on my machine. Maybe though the higher tack factor of the #2 is to keep the oil stuck on the vertical lead screw in the column?

Very possible Dave. I do find it surprising that your manual calls for Vactra #2 everywhere yet it does make perfect sense on the vertical ways. I just went and looked at my manual and it calls for "a suitable grease" be applied "as required". I would say that is a rather broad requirement. I guess that one of my go-to's, Super Lube, is what I will be using.
I do know that the oilers and oil passages were plugged with sludge, so I am glad that I pulled this thing apart to check it and clean it up. Overall, the machine is in good shape, but the lubrication was suspect.
Also, my longitudinal movement is effected by a cogged timing belt vis a vis your stainless metal straps. It could use a new one, although it is surprisingly good shape for its age. There was a number on the belt but I thought to myself, what are the chances of finding one. Turns out, it is a very common timing belt for cars. I have two open box ones coming from eBay. $10 for two plus $10 for shipping. I guess I am set for life on that end.

 

[7milesup]

I read somewhere, never take the mag chuck apart. Then I watch you guys
Those things get nasty.
I may check mine out some day but for now, it works perfectly.

I think Jeff that when there is reference to never take a magnetic chuck apart, there are some caveats. First, the force of the magnets can be significant, so pinched fingers/skin is a risk. But more so, I believe that the reference more applies to taking the actual magnet packs apart from each other. My magnet packs seem to be in good shape, as does Dave's. If they weren't, we would have found shards of magnets in the bottom of the chucks. Therefore, I have no reason to separate the packs from each other, which may be a rather daunting task. I have read of people doing so, and repairing their magnets, but thank goodness, it does not appear that we have to do that.

 

[DavidR8]

I read somewhere, never take the mag chuck apart. Then I watch you guys
Those things get nasty.
I may check mine out some day but for now, it works perfectly.

The folks at Walker were really clear that I was not to separate the two magnetic plates. There’s a very real possibility of injury because of the forces involved.
I did watch a video of someone separating the plates but it was a much smaller chuck so the forces were much less than on a 6x18.

 

[sdelivery]

So Sdelivery..... I picked up some ISO 32 hydraulic oil. After reading numerous threads on other forums, it seems that the general consensus is that (high quality) hydraulic oil is considered as a suitable replacement. This is especially true where Vactra #1 is called for in a headstock as an example. Anit-wear (A/W) hydraulic oil is usually anti-foaming, hydrophobic and protects against oxidation and rust. It seems though that Vactra 2 has a level of adhesiveness that provides for continued protection on sloped and vertical surfaces. I am not sure if Vactra 1 has the same quality.
ISO 32 is SAE 10, so it is quite thin. ISO 68 is SAE 20.
I think I am trying to understand rocket science for a machine that uses Flinstone technology

Sorry for derailing your thread Dave.

Not a problem. The biggest thing to remember is the vactra series of oils are supposed to be slide way oils with a tactifier in them. Which just helps to keep the oil where you want it.
I see iso 32 hydraulic oil used as headstock lubricants and in the larger grinders it was the slide lubricant as well as hydraulic oil and was used in most of the hydrostatic machines.
IMO, I use way oil (vactra series) in dedicated way lube systems in combination systems like a lathe apron that lubricates the apron as well as the slides I use a hydraulic oil.
Most headstocks I use iso 32 hydraulic
Many of the special spindle oils are gone in favor of hydraulic oils in different viscosity.
You are correct the 30 weight engine oil wouldn't be correct to thin the iso 68 to close to a iso 32.

 

[Dabbler]

If you need more stiction in your hydraulic oil , you can add a dash of STP to it. All STP is, is stiction additives that way oils have in them already...

 

[sdelivery]

If you need more stiction in your hydraulic oil , you can add a dash of STP to it. All STP is, is stiction additives that way oils have in them already...

I use dollar store generic chain saw lubricant in my Bridgeport. It is a little heavy but works very well.
If it's not between the slides it's not going to work

 

[7milesup]

If you need more stiction in your hydraulic oil , you can add a dash of STP to it. All STP is, is stiction additives that way oils have in them already...

Ohhh. Never thought of that! Makes perfect sense.
Love this forum.

 

[DavidR8]

Took some time and tried grinding tonight with a dressed wheel.
Big difference! This piece is glass smooth.

Compared to this with an undressed wheel. I can feel the ridges.

 

[mmcmdl]

Is that " soft" material Dave . It looks like it is .

 

[DavidR8]

Is that " soft" material Dave . It looks like it is .

It isn't hardened as a file will dig in.