Noisy VFD Setup

[MikeInOr]

If you put the motor back on the static converter do all the noises go away?

 

[WobblyHand]

If you put the motor back on the static converter do all the noises go away?

That's the million dollar question. If the noises go away, then it's likely vfd related issues. When nothing makes sense, sometimes it is good to repeat an earlier test.

 

[walterwoj]

@mksj I ran all your parameters, the only one I didn't have was the p8 ones. No change

I'm going to try the static converter again for a sanity check but it's a pain since I have to rewire everything again!

 

[Blackjackjacques]

Can you toss a scope across the terminals and watch the waveform. Almost sounds like DC reflections. How long is the cable length from the VFD to the Motor?

 

[walterwoj]

So the manufacturer told me to test the inputs and outputs to see if they were balanced and I got 238v input and the same output on any combination of the output wires while the motor was at full speed. I think this rules out your idea @strantor

I also wired it back up to the static phase converter an ran just fine, no banging or thumping. So I can say it's not the bearings @Ulma Doctor

I am fairly confident that the issue lies with the VFD autotuned options.

 

[walterwoj]

Can you toss a scope across the terminals and watch the waveform. Almost sounds like DC reflections. How long is the cable length from the VFD to the Motor?

I do not have a scope or access to one. The wire is less than 5ft long from the VFD to the motor with nothing in between.

 

[Blackjackjacques]

I do not have a scope or access to one. The wire is less than 5ft long from the VFD to the motor with nothing in between.

Ok - well you can rule out cable length. Clearly, your problem is not mechanical since the knock disappears immediately upon shut off - as you surmised. Even a cheap low end scope should show what to me sounds like DC transients on the waveform -- a problematic VFD most likely.

 

[mksj]

If there was an output device failure it should show up as a fault code. Make sure P2.00 = 0. See if there is a difference between P0.00 = 0 (V/Hz) and P0.00 = 1 sensorless vector mode, the latter is more dependent on the motor tuning. Check that the rated output of the VFD in amps is higher than the motor rated amps for constant torque. Check the input voltage is at least 240VAC, should be run off minimum 50-60A circuit.

Supposedly P0.17 = 1 Inverter restores all parameters to factory setting.
You can try this and then just put in the motor parameters P2.01-P2.05
Try to run the motor P0.00 = 0 see how it runs
Change P00.0 = 1 and run the auto tune, and see how the motor runs.
If the problem still remains then sounds like a VFD problem.

 

[strantor]

So the manufacturer told me to test the inputs and outputs to see if they were balanced and I got 238v input and the same output on any combination of the output wires while the motor was at full speed. I think this rules out your idea @strantor

Not necessarily. Not sure what kind of meter you have; a "True RMS" meter would tell a different story than an ordinary one if my theory was true. My "2.5 phases" comment implied a transistor failed open but a failed output transistor could be failed open or failed short. If it was failed short then the motor would be getting a serious kick in the ass every half cycle on one of the phases. That would be a better explanation for the noise than an open anyway. Also body diodes can fail.

If there was an output device failure it should show up as a fault code

That's what I would expect too, but I am used to VFDs that you won't find on Temu.

 

[walterwoj]

@mksl I have tried both modes you suggest with no appreciable change. The P0.17 = 1 works on most of the settings but it does not appear to erase the auto tuned settings,