New To Me 11" Logan 920

[mattthemuppet2]

if you get another drop deck trailer, take some 2x4 or 4x4 with you and cut them down to the width of the trailer floor, then bolt them sticking out sideways to the base of the dolly/ platform. That will stop it from tipping, though it's still worth taking the motor and tailstock off to lighten things up. Then carefully role it onto the trailer and you're good to go.

Looks like you found a good one though, congrats!

 

[Charlieman22]

Ha - well - you will never get those moments of your life back from that viewing.

if you get another drop deck trailer

The drop bed wasn't available to rent.
Would have been a great way to do it - and your outrigger concept seems solid.
I am committed to disassembly at this point.

Will hunt for collets
as well as the ever elusive dauber
Any other tooling that might be tucked away in those drawers as well.
I'll post if I get tangled mid way through the process.
Wish me luck!

 

[extropic]

I just finished watching Randy Richard's SEVEN part video series on tuning up his Logan collet closer. OMG!

Anyway, the one important part of the CC that I haven't seen in your pictures is the nose piece. That's the part that fits into the female taper of the spindle and provides the female taper to receive the 5C collets. look diligently for it. It's worth about $100.

 

[Shiseiji]

I think the piece used to apply white lead is called a dauber. And is easy to make.
Jim Sehr
b looks like crosslide nut
h looks like lantern tool post base
e boring bare holder
g knurls

No argument, colloquially it's a dauber. I had a brain fart so looked at the manual. On page 8 Logan calls it a quill, and in the parts manual Logan calls it a knob. Go figure.

 

[Shiseiji]

I just finished watching Randy Richard's SEVEN part video series on tuning up his Logan collet closer. OMG!

Anyway, the one important part of the CC that I haven't seen in your pictures is the nose piece. That's the part that fits into the female taper of the spindle and provides the female taper to receive the 5C collets. look diligently for it. It's worth about $100.

Sticker shock. One from Scott is $340. Also the nose guard though they can be easily made or a 3D printed one purchased. Price new: $233

Wrote this earlier - but appears I never hit post.
Apologies if I miss any specific responses.
Read everyones.
Thank you.

Extropic - good stuff as usual.

Ah - excellent.

Now looking at it - it does seam to have the shape of a nut for a screw. I will get a closer look and post pics when back in front of it.

Ok - glad its not only me. I will see if there are any identifying marks or numbers on it - and get some detailed pics up and posted when I am down there - in case we realize there is some kind of holder that should be with it that needs to be found hiding in the garage...

I managed to figure out what I is - Extropic had previously suggested it might be part of the collet closer.
Sure enough - I found a video with that part being shown: View attachment 371622

Jim - agreed - its a duaber. I've downloaded a picture and sent it to the son in-law in case he saw it somewhere. On my list to find if its around.
Extropic - watched the video. Man how times have changed - but lathes have not! Good grounding for me. Thanks.
Shiseiji - Plan is to disassemble. I pulled off a one man move on a 4200Lb mill - by building a wide rolling base - that now serves as the means to move my mill. It was a bit of alchemy - and I never felt unsafe - but took a great deal of planning and pre-work.
Let (best) 5 feet of a 100 mile move seen here - if you want a laugh:

The Logan lathe's peg leg design is just ripe with ways for it to crumble. My plan is to disassemble.
I don't have a hoist - so its going to load by hand.
I'm a little unsure about the weight of the motor drive unit - but if I can remove that by hand - I should be good to break down from there.
What I can't load - I'll engage my son to help with.

Thanks to all that weighed in.
Great primer for me the day prior - and very helpful.
-CM

Looking at the same trailer to move a Monarch 10EE 3,000 miles. If you have time, might be wise to borrow the wheels off the mill base and make wider as needed to move the Logan.

 

[Charlieman22]

I just finished watching Randy Richard's SEVEN part video series on tuning up his Logan collet closer. OMG!

Anyway, the one important part of the CC that I haven't seen in your pictures is the nose piece. That's the part that fits into the female taper of the spindle and provides the female taper to receive the 5C collets. look diligently for it. It's worth about $100.

Wow - that's some patience! I browsed them to get a sense of how it worked, and what his approach was.
Have that nose cone on the list. Maybe if I can find a store of collets, it is in that drawer.
The gentleman that owned this seems to have been very careful with things.
His son in-law says he really didn't operate much if at all for the past decade, and things started piling up in the garage.
Editors note: That will be me one day - and if I get all the way to 91 - I'll be proud of it.

May post from the sight if I find any parts I'm un sure of.

 

[Charlieman22]

Looking at the same trailer to move a Monarch 10EE 3,000 miles. If you have time, might be wise to borrow the wheels off the mill base and make wider as needed to move the Logan.

For what its worth (and opportunity for gratuitously showing off my work...)

The Webb mill in the video was a legitimate 4300lbs of unreasonably top heavy iron.
That mill was 2 hours away - so the drive was significant.
To get it moved, I measured - best I could - the center line of the existing mill feet bolt holes by visiting.
But I had the seller re-measure later for me.
To ensure fit of the frame cross members, I slotted the holes.
Some pictures below of the cross members I built.
When transporting, I had it bolted to some 4x6's to help stabilize - and of course chained and strapped at 4 corners.

Couple things I learned worth sharing.
1. I brought spax lag bolts with me - which require no pilot hole. Impact wrench drove them straight in to the 4x6 wood skids I noted.
2. Since seller had a fork lift - but I didnt - I had them lift the machine so I could install the cross members I had fabricated. I designed it to have some extension for those lag bolts of #1, and now use them for the machinery feet. This adds some stability in my shop - but also allows me still to lower on to the wheels and roll.
3. That drop bed trailer was in fact a lifesaver at unload. I drove a good 150+ miles (including 3 back and forth to the car wash) and the mill was solid as a rock back there. That said - I realized I had no recourse if I had gotten a flat. In hindsight - I might have brought a bottle of fix a flat at minimum, and a spare wheel with pressurized tire would have been even smarter.

Here is a pic of the x members. You can see the the extensions off the front that would be used to rest it on the 4x6 and bolt it down.

This was shot as I was bolting the x members on to the mill.

Though its a little hard to see - if you zoom in you can see how I oriented the 4x6 and bolted them on. This allowed to to be super stable, and when I got back to my house - I used a jack and some blocks to slowly lower it down on to the wheels - so that I could role it in to my garage.

Off to see how I fair with the lathe.
Slow and steady is my plan - and if I get hung up - I will have to consider a more elaborate solution like the one above.

 

[Nogoingback]

If you remove the motor first, the drive box should be something you can just lift off. I took
my 10" apart and put it together with no problems.
You also might consider fabricating a stand for the lathe which locates the the pedestal leg
securely.

Here's mine: the stand is made up of welded 3 x 4 and 3 x 5 rectangular tube tied together with 2" round
tubes. It has 5 leveling feet. The added bonus is that it raised the lathe up higher, which for me
is helpful for my back. Sorry about the dark pictures.

 

[extropic]

Sticker shock. One from Scott is $340. Also the nose guard though they can be easily made or a 3D printed one purchased. Price new: $233

Looking at the same trailer to move a Monarch 10EE 3,000 miles. If you have time, might be wise to borrow the wheels off the mill base and make wider as needed to move the Logan.

LOL. Things always cost more than I think they should.

A bit rare too. I looked on eBay for the purpose of posting a representative picture but saw none.

Can you provide a link to Scott? I don't know that source.

 

[Shiseiji]

LOL. Things always cost more than I think they should.

A bit rare too. I looked on eBay for the purpose of posting a representative picture but saw none.

Can you provide a link to Scott? I don't know tha

LOL. Things always cost more than I think they should.

A bit rare too. I looked on eBay for the purpose of posting a representative picture but saw none.

Can you provide a link to Scott? I don't know that source.

Scott S. Logan, President Tel +1 (815) 943-9500
Logan Actuator Co. Fax +1 (815) 943-6755
550 Chippewa Rd Email ssl@lathe.com
Harvard IL 60033-2337 Web http://www.lathe.com
USA