New To Me 11" Logan 920

Ok - chuck is out of the bath - so to speak.
Closer look - the split line is not at the jaws - so impacting with wood inside the jaw slots would not do anything - unless I struck the spinny part that looks like cartoon eyes when they are punched.
Editors Note - I would only type that description here...
Shot some pics.
Suggestions to split?
IMG_3750.JPGIMG_3751.JPGIMG_3753.JPGIMG_3759.JPGIMG_3757.JPG
 
same deal. The spiral piece is the scroll and sits in a recess in both halves. Looks like the pinion (where you put the key) is held in place by the 2 halves.

So, if you push the scroll away from the front of the chuck and hold the front half, you will push the back half out. Another way to do it if you're careful is to thread in longer screws (than stock) into the 6 holes around the center, then lightly tap the head of each one in turn with a hammer. Same deal, should push the back half off.
 
Mathew - had posted elsewhere in the general and someone said the same.
Realized that you likely meant that with your first direction.
Came apart with little drama and fairly light taps.
Grease - even though it had been soaking for 24+ hours in evaporust - was like layers of wax paper.
Will clean it up and re-assemble with some new grease.
Much appreciated!IMG_3772.JPGd
 
Yes, I don't think Evaporust is a petroleum product dissolving agent. A reminder to me that rust isn't the only thing that can hold something together.
 
This is the first time I have used Evaporust so extensively.
Have to say - kinda knocked out.
1. Low VOC - at least to my nose. Nothing like mineral spirits or strippers (the liquid kind - just to clarify).
2. Non-abrasive means to remove rust, paint, grease, oil. It is kinda remarkable. All of the Logan lathe was restored after bathing in that - then lightly wire wheeled to polish, or if stripping, putty knifed the paint onto a paper towel next to the bath, then brass brushed off any little bits before final wire wheel treatment.
I used only a little paint stripper - and hated it every time. Instead - I used a large storage tub (LDPE) and just bathed the parts for 24 hours. The next day - the paint was shriveled like your hands after a long session doing the dishes. It just sluffed off.
3. I rinsed in water - then shot with silicone or wd 40. had precious to no flash rust. Very nice product for restoration job.

One trick: As I tore down a section - for example the gear box - I put the parts in 1 gallon or sandwich sized seal bags. I punched a hole in the bottom, and put the bag in the trough of evaporust, filling the bag and submerging the parts. This kept the small components - even down to little woodruff keys - in their group. When I pulled them - I would just hold the bag up and let it drain from that hole - then rinsed while still in the bag - then threw it on a paper towel on my bench and wiped down/siliconed where appropriate. Made re-assembly simple.
Also - if you are using a tub, one with a cover means you can store and reuse the evaporust - ALOT.

I hate scraping.
My $.02
-CM
 
I don't have a large container. My two small ones are something my GF got rid of from the kitchen. Clear with a center pop seal button. Almost no evaporation.
 
Came apart with little drama and fairly light taps.
Grease - even though it had been soaking for 24+ hours in evaporust - was like layers of wax paper.
Will clean it up and re-assemble with some new grease.
Much appreciated!View attachment 375055d
nice! Glad you got it apart without any drama. Your pic seems to show some damage to the back (geared part) of the scroll, or is that just old grease?
 
I don't have a large container. My two small ones are something my GF got rid of from the kitchen. Clear with a center pop seal button. Almost no evaporation.
Nice to have some narrow and deep (think $6.00 harbor freight oil drain pan) and long/ large - think storage bin from local hardware store.
Reason: its critical to make sure your parts are 100% submerged - or they will get a nasty line on them where the evaporust level was. long parts - think rods, saddle, etc - will be well covered in a fairly shallow but long container. Narrow thick parts - think chucks - will be well covered in the smaller diameter/ deeper container. Or... just buy a ton of evaporust... But make sure to cover the parts completely.
nice! Glad you got it apart without any drama. Your pic seems to show some damage to the back (geared part) of the scroll, or is that just old grease?

That is in fact just 50 year old grease - now dissolved in the evaporust.
Really happy about how the lathe turned out - every time I walk in to the garage.
The polished aluminum bits aren't so bad to look at.
Got a new belt for it - which added some smoothness - and I put a little piece of inner tube over the leather belt's connecting point.
Chuck is back together.
Question - what keeps the chuck from just unscrewing when the machine is operating (pained me to have to type that)


Little piece of inner tube - lubed with soap and water and stretched over the belt. Covers the splice in the belt.IMG_3745.JPGinstalled back on the lathe and ready.IMG_3814.JPG
 
Question - what keeps the chuck from just unscrewing when the machine is operating (pained me to have to type that)

During normal (CCW spindle rotation) any cutting forces obviously tend to tighten the chuck onto the spindle.
Since there's no E brake, instant deceleration isn't an issue.
However, if CW spindle rotation is desired, unscrewing the chuck is possible and one of many factors the operator should manage.

I've seen posts where some sort of locking scheme has been attempted. Sometimes, as simple as a setscrew (with soft plug) through the chuck back plate hub and bearing on the spindle thread .
 
Extropic - thanks. Ok - that makes sense - I wondered about reversing and the potential for having a heavy runaway object spinning at my feet...

Need to revive my mill thread - and see if I can convince you to re-visit your proposal for the screw extensions where needed for adding handles.
I did not fully comprehend that one at the time - but suspect I might do better a second time around with a bit more experience under my belt (and a lathe in my garage!)
 
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