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- Dec 18, 2019
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One way to do that is to use a dividing head and tilt it upwards. It would be ok for small holes or "ginger" machining. Or just print the thing...I am trying to figure how to drill the tilted holes.
One way to do that is to use a dividing head and tilt it upwards. It would be ok for small holes or "ginger" machining. Or just print the thing...I am trying to figure how to drill the tilted holes.
No printer - and I have to do a fair amount or research to invest in one.One way to do that is to use a dividing head and tilt it upwards. It would be ok for small holes or "ginger" machining. Or just print the thing...
That is heartening!Both boards are inside the aluminum enclosure I made. If I open the enclosure up, I DO see line interference on the output.
I'm pretty sure I have some interaction between the two boards though. If they're too close together the output goes into oscillation!
I only took the printer plunge recently. Spent far too much time agonizing over it. There's a whole another learning curve to to as well. But it has been quite useful, so I'm happy with it. At the moment, it is more advanced than I am!No printer - and I have to do a fair amount or research to invest in one.
Also - I am in the UK, which right now has a thoroughly broken import-export imagined relationship with the rest of the planet.
I find it hard to imagine a more complete proffered incompetence from our supposed most important people when it comes to getting quite basic stuff arranged!
Getting my head around it. I have to tilt the whole rotary, and not the collet block in it?
Hmm.. thinking on it - yes. Tilt the whole rotary. That's the only way the hole always presents itself upwards.
BUT - naughty thought! My mill has a settable tilting head. The rotary can be set down on the table flat, with the work pointing straight upwards.
Rotate 60° (or 45°) between holes. That said, I can feel it in my bones that this may need a "practice run".
It may not be long. I am untangling some of it now. I will post the stuff here when I am more sure of it.The current discussions regarding the pocket geiger circuit are all good. A different implementation of the front end would be very instructive. Or perhaps "illuminating" is a more appropriate description .
Before I resort to that, I am going to try tilting the whole mill head, after all, that is one of it's "features".Yes, you need to tilt the rotary table.
Remember that you have to tram it back! Don't know how easy your mill is to line up.Before I resort to that, I am going to try tilting the whole mill head, after all, that is one of it's "features".
That is exactly why I resist like hell messing with it. It's not like a solid Bridgeport where you can tilt to an angle, and later set it back, and casually expect the tramming will still be good. I saw it happen, though I should say the guy working the machine was also surprised. To quote him..Remember that you have to tram it back! Don't know how easy your mill is to line up.
That's why I mentioned it, because there's quite a few stories about getting a mill back in tram.That is exactly why I resist like hell messing with it. It's not like a solid Bridgeport where you can tilt to an angle, and later set it back, and casually expect the tramming will still be good. I saw it happen, though I should say the guy working the machine was also surprised. To quote him..
"Hey what- how lucky can you get"?
I have not played with the Cormack enough yet to break even one end-mill, although having HSS ones go blunt does happen.
As you may guess, I have not had a whole lot of experience with machining!