Need help selecting slitting saw setup

Do you guys know that you can stack blades to get a wider kerf? This is especially useful when using the thinner jeweler's saws; just stagger the teeth as best you can. This is why the Sierra American design is so good. It allows you to accurately stack two blades and hold them concentric to the body of the arbor. If you do stack blades, slow down your speed and definitely manually feed it so you can feel the cut.
 
:) was looking at the arbors there. Might buy the 1". The one I have is ridiculously long and gets in the way. Really restricts usage.
Doing the same... the low profile is what I was looking for... And the only way to get the 4" as those were not available for 1/2" arbor...
 
Do you guys know that you can stack blades to get a wider kerf? This is especially useful when using the thinner jeweler's saws; just stagger the teeth as best you can. This is why the Sierra American design is so good. It allows you to accurately stack two blades and hold them concentric to the body of the arbor. If you do stack blades, slow down your speed and definitely manually feed it so you can feel the cut.
Didn't know that, but makes lots of sense! For that matter, didn't know about burying the saw. Always been a bit scared of doing that. Have stalled the mill with the saw going in too fast, so have backed off on the feed and taken lighter cuts. PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill, so have to accommodate that. @wachuko 's mill won't be fazed at all.
 
Didn't read all posts. I bought a Tormach arbor. Super well made. Holder has no runout. Most saws do have runout.

3/4" straight shank means this can be used in just about any machine that has a 3/4" collet.



Slitting saws themselves can be moderately expensive.

Grizzly sells cheap options starting under $10.

Harvey tool has high end carbide saws upwards of $600
 
Didn't read all posts. I bought a Tormach arbor. Super well made. Holder has no runout. Most saws do have runout.

3/4" straight shank means this can be used in just about any machine that has a 3/4" collet.



Slitting saws themselves can be moderately expensive.

Grizzly sells cheap options starting under $10.

Harvey tool has high end carbide saws upwards of $600
The Tormach arbors look very nice. They are in the same price point as the Sierra American arbors.

As for a carbide saw blade, far, far, beyond my pay grade! I'll have to stick with HSS.
 
For that matter, didn't know about burying the saw. Always been a bit scared of doing that. Have stalled the mill with the saw going in too fast, so have backed off on the feed and taken lighter cuts. PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill, so have to accommodate that. @wachuko 's mill won't be fazed at all.

I've stacked two blades and taken full depth cuts on a Sherline mill. The trick, if there is one, is to feed manually so you can feel a slight resistance to the feed. You will feel and hear the saw cut. I use both hands to maintain a constant feed rate and use my third hand to lubricate the cut. You do not need to baby a slitting saw if the holder is accurate.

You should also have a splatter shield or wear a shirt you don't mind having a permanent stripe on because I guarantee you that you will be wearing a lot of cutting fluid when you're done.
 
PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill,

It doesn't have the low RPM, either. Get much over two inch diameter and the blade speed is too high. A four inch blade would be great, but the slowest RPM would smoke the blade shortly.
 
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