Need change gear help with a Vevor model YS-1835-A mini lathe!

[VicHobbyGuy]

Something to consider if you decide to bore out those gears of yours.

I agree about the boring problems. I bought some small carbide boring bars from AliExpress and they work really well, but they aren't something most folks will 'have on hand'. And I needed holders for them.
Holding a plastic gear without mashing the teeth... I'd probably make some sort of collar or 'cup chuck' adapter - perhaps from a PVC or ABS pipe cap?
One of those 'quick projects' that can take a lot longer than anticipated. Good thing this is a hobby for me.
A reamer is a lot simpler solution for the change gear fitting.

 

[VicHobbyGuy]

A 12mm drill would be cheaper than a reamer. But you still could be looking at ordering it, metric drills aren't quite so readily available here in SAE land.

I agree. Most of the 'standard' metric drill sets stop at 10mm, and decent drills aren't cheap either. Sometimes I've found a drill in my number/letter budget set that will do the job. A friend dropped into my little basement workshop a few months after I was 'bitten' by the hobby machining 'bug'. His first comment: "Wow! Lots of drills."

 

[GrifterGuru]

I agree. Most of the 'standard' metric drill sets stop at 10mm, and decent drills aren't cheap either. Sometimes I've found a drill in my number/letter budget set that will do the job. A friend dropped into my little basement workshop a few months after I was 'bitten' by the hobby machining 'bug'. His first comment: "Wow! Lots of drills."

Be fair, I have seen and can acquire on a reqular basis a set of Jobber drills in a metal case that go from 1mm to 13mm, including some half sizes.

 

[WobblyHand]

I don't have a full set of metric drills, mostly ones that correspond to the tap drill size for metric hardware. But I do have a full set of number drills, fractional drills and letter drills, in both Jobber length and stubby length. I can mostly get by with that. I did pick up a bunch of 12mm drills for some reason, seems that I have at least 6 of them. Don't know why I did that, maybe they were cheap?

I have other sets, but they are from my pre-machining era. Basically, they are junk. I'll use them to drill wood, or into a wall. The good ones are in the shop. The good ones run true, can't say that for the Harbor Freight grade drills, or even the hardware store bits. It's no fun to put a bunch of time into a part and ruin it with an off size or slightly bent bit.

 

[VicHobbyGuy]

Be fair, I have seen and can acquire on a reqular basis a set of Jobber drills in a metal case that go from 1mm to 13mm, including some half sizes.

Yes, you are right. I should have said: "The drill sets I found when I was buying metric drills only went up to 10mm". I think part of the problem is that the subsidized shipping from China has a weight limit, so the larger sets with bigger drills were often listed with "Cannot be shipped to your location." I just checked and the situation is still the same at AliExpress. Nowadays, Amazon has more metric drill sets listed than they did when I was shopping, including ones that go to 13mm.

 

[VicHobbyGuy]

Be fair, I have seen and can acquire on a reqular basis a set of Jobber drills in a metal case that go from 1mm to 13mm, including some half sizes.

In Europe, I'd guess the situation is a lot different. I'm in Canada and the OP is in Texas, so likely our 'metric choices' are restricted.

 

[GrifterGuru]

In Europe, I'd guess the situation is a lot different. I'm in Canada and the OP is in Texas, so likely our 'metric choices' are restricted.

Try acquiring imperial stuff over here... Not exactly "easy" but not overly difficult.. Most everywhere only carries metric as the most commonly available and when you want imperial, you either have to go online or to certain, specific, outlets to get it.

 

[6Sally5]

I do have a mini-lathe. But I am NOT assuming that what I have (Sieg based) is what the original poster has. Which is why I asked the questions. More than happy to make a couple of designs, to help out, for a few missing gears. Not so keen to do a full set, well because that starts to look like work.. As noted above there's loads of change gears online, but it's not always obvious what their dimensions are, because stl's are tough to dimension from.

I figured the key way might be 3mm, but wasn't sure about the height of the key way. If I recall correctly, the needed gears were 55 & 65? Anyways, here's the stls for 55 and 65, with my best guess at dimensions. 3mm key width, 2.5mm long from radius to end of key. And the FreeCAD file if anyone wants to play with it. Just select the grey gear on the side and you can change how many teeth there are. Once you do, the gear is redrawn. Then export the Body to stl, or step. Easy peasy. Happy printing.

WH…just wanted to let you know my SIL downloaded and used your files here to create my gears. With just a little touchup, they inserted on the appropriate shafts of my lathe just fine! Thank# so much!

 

[6Sally5]

The Pillow block is the bracket that holds the end of the leadscrew and supports it. There is one at each end of the leadscrew.

Thank you! Again, machining is a whole new universe for me.

 

[GrifterGuru]

Thank you! Again, machining is a whole new universe for me.

You'll get there both with terminology and methedology. Time will give you the knowledge and experience. It is both a world of fun and of frustrations. You will have times you just want to walk away and others when you get hyped over making that "thing" you have been wanting to make for so long.

As for me? I would not be without my lathe now I have had it for a while. So many little "jobs" have been done that otherwise would not have been possible. Latest one was opening a pocket on the rear of an internally stepped bicycle-spoke-threading die. Held in the ER collet, used a tool-post mounted dremel and got the job done inside 5 minutes. A little job that would otherwise have been a real PITA. Now it fits perfectly on the threading machine head astride the locating spigot.

Another job was using the milling slide to make a replacement slide indicator for a mk4 Raleigh Chopper after the factory original snapped in half.